Debeli kuk

DEBELI KUK (600 m)

Looking from the car park, the massive peak rises above the left side of the canyon called Klanci.The S ridge of the mountain extends to the car park and the E face reaches Maniti kuk. The approach is quick and easy as the main track to Anica luka follows the base of Debeli kuk and many of the routes start from this track.

It is the E face of Debeli kuk that is of interest to climber's. This face is divided into four sectors as follows:

a) left side - with the S ridge to the left and chimneys of Debeli kuk to the right

b) center - with the chimneys to the left and the obvious tower to the right

c) the tower of Velika Paklenica

d) right side - from the tower to the vast rib at the right of the face

The best view of the E face of Debeli kuk is obtained from the W ridge of Cuk (Kanjonska),as it is impossible to see the whole face from the floor of the canyon.

Approach: from the car park through the gorge Klanci to the beginning of the route ( 5 - 10 min)

Descent: From the end of the routes down the broken slope following the ridge to the scree between Debeli kuk and Kukovi ispod Vlake.From there to the track. The time of descent depends on the altitude of the exit of the route and on the individual's ability to locate the descent.For the routes on the tower, see Stup Velike Paklenice. From the top of Debeli kuk it is also possible to descend in direction Maniti kuk and, passing it on the left, to reach the track which leads to Manita pec.

NOTE:The routes on the left side and on the central part of the wall are not well known and probably unrepeated and the in situ gear reflects the frequency of ascents.

c)The tower of Velika Paklenica

2 x 50 m

An impressive tower that closes the left side of the gorge Klanci and rises at the extreme left side of the east face of Debeli kuk. The tower has previously been named Visoka glavica in error. All the routes on the tower are exposed and difficult.

Approach: From the main car park follow the track to the upper car park called Plazaca and continue to the first bridge. Just before the bridge turn left to the base of the wall.

Descent:

1) From the top of the tower, traverse about 30 m to the left (SE) and then 3 to 4 abseils from trees, will get you to the scree and back on the track (30 Min.)

b) Abseil down the route Karaoke.

d) The right side

Approach: Follow the track through Klanci to the second bridge. After the bridge turn left up the scree towards the face (20-20 min.).

Descent: Follow the wall to the top of Debeli kuk, then turn left (W) around Maniti kuk to reach the track to Manita pec, that descends to Anica kuk; 1 h

It is recommended that you buy climbing guide "Paklenica".

By Dubravko Vukmirovic
Scanned by Tamara Dumic.
Special thanks to Boris Cujic.