Installing shiplap on walls with metal studs is a project that combines classic aesthetic appeal with modern construction techniques. While the process shares similarities with installing on wooden frames, it requires specific adjustments to ensure a secure, level, and code-compliant finish. Success hinges on using the right fasteners and understanding how to properly attach the vertical supports to the metal skeleton of your wall.
Understanding the Challenges of Metal Studs
Unlike wood, metal studs are inherently smooth, lack the porous texture for nails to grip effectively, and are much thinner gauge. Traditional nails or staples used for wood will likely bend or fail to hold the shiplap securely. Furthermore, metal studs are often spaced at 24 inches on center, compared to the standard 16 inches for wood, which creates longer spans that require additional reinforcement to prevent flexing. The primary goal is to transition from the flexible metal frame to a rigid, beautiful surface that remains stable over time.
Gathering the Right Tools and Materials
Preparation is the key to a smooth installation. You will need specific items designed for metal construction. Beyond the shiplap boards themselves, the critical components include metal stud tracks or hats, which act as furring channels, self-tapping metal screws, a powerful drill with high-torque settings, a chalk line for layout, a heavy-duty level, and optionally, a stud finder specifically designed to locate the center of the metal studs. Using screws instead of nails ensures a tight, adjustable hold that can withstand the natural movement of the building.
Step-by-Step Installation Process
The procedure begins not with the shiplap, but with the attachment of a support system. First, accurately locate the center of each metal stud behind the drywall. Attach a metal stud track horizontally to the wall, aligning the top edge with your desired height for the shiplap base. This track transforms the wall into a substrate similar to wood framing. Next, cut vertical furring pieces, usually 1x2 lumber or more metal tracks, and secure them vertically between the horizontal tracks at the precise width of your shiplap planks. This grid provides the necessary thickness and a nailing surface for the boards.
Cutting and Test Fitting
Before committing to the final placement, measure the wall dimensions carefully. Cut the shiplap boards to length using a fine-toothed saw to minimize splintering. Dry-fit the first course of boards into the grid you created, checking for level and ensuring the tongue and groove joints fit snugly without being forced. Adjust the vertical supports if necessary to achieve a clean, straight starting line. This trial run prevents the frustration of having to cut boards mid-installation due to miscalculations.
Securing the Shiplap
With the grid in place and the first board positioned, the installation moves fast. Drive screws through the tongue of the shiplap, angling them slightly upward into the vertical furring pieces. It is vital to avoid driving screws directly into the metal tracks if possible, as this can cause stress and potential loosening over time. Space screws approximately 12 to 16 inches apart along every vertical support. As you proceed row by row, use the tongue and groove system to keep the seams aligned and the rows straight, maintaining a consistent gap for the adhesive or thermal movement if required by the manufacturer.
Finishing Touches and Trim
Once the field of the wall is covered, the final step involves handling the edges and corners. You will need to cut the last board in each row to fit the remaining space, ensuring a clean termination. For outside corners, install corner beads or create a custom trim piece to protect the sharp edge and provide a polished look. Inside corners can be addressed with tight-fitting trim or by allowing the shiplap to meet cleanly if the geometry is favorable. Inspect the entire surface for level and tightness, tightening any loose screws before considering the project complete.
