Can You Quench 1095 In Water at Robert Nguyen blog

Can You Quench 1095 In Water. The saber (scandi) bevel makes for a very structurally balanced blade when undergoing the very abrupt water quench. If your spine thickness was in the 5mm range my answer would be different and. A water quench is likely to crack the blade immediately. I'd strongly recommend you try a brine solution using the same interrupted quench technique you've been using. Be sure that the oil. As justin said, you have to be pretty quick getting it into the quench oil. I do it sometimes in brine with a thin clay coating, but it isn't something i would. Water quenching is always risky, because the suppliers are talking about far thicker cross sections than what we are dealing with. Quenching 1095 in water is very risky at best. Peanut oil is fine for quenching 1095.

Hand Japanese Samurai Sword 1095 High Carbon Steel Sashikomi A+
from www.coolkatana.com

Peanut oil is fine for quenching 1095. I do it sometimes in brine with a thin clay coating, but it isn't something i would. Be sure that the oil. A water quench is likely to crack the blade immediately. As justin said, you have to be pretty quick getting it into the quench oil. Water quenching is always risky, because the suppliers are talking about far thicker cross sections than what we are dealing with. The saber (scandi) bevel makes for a very structurally balanced blade when undergoing the very abrupt water quench. If your spine thickness was in the 5mm range my answer would be different and. Quenching 1095 in water is very risky at best. I'd strongly recommend you try a brine solution using the same interrupted quench technique you've been using.

Hand Japanese Samurai Sword 1095 High Carbon Steel Sashikomi A+

Can You Quench 1095 In Water I do it sometimes in brine with a thin clay coating, but it isn't something i would. Peanut oil is fine for quenching 1095. I do it sometimes in brine with a thin clay coating, but it isn't something i would. Be sure that the oil. I'd strongly recommend you try a brine solution using the same interrupted quench technique you've been using. Water quenching is always risky, because the suppliers are talking about far thicker cross sections than what we are dealing with. Quenching 1095 in water is very risky at best. As justin said, you have to be pretty quick getting it into the quench oil. The saber (scandi) bevel makes for a very structurally balanced blade when undergoing the very abrupt water quench. If your spine thickness was in the 5mm range my answer would be different and. A water quench is likely to crack the blade immediately.

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