Mastering the art of how to wallpaper around objects transforms a standard room refresh into a professional-grade finish. While measuring a straight run of paper seems straightforward, the true test of a DIY enthusiast lies in navigating the complex geometry of a room. Electrical outlets, windows, door frames, and even baseboards demand precision, patience, and the right technique. This guide breaks down the process, equipping you with the skills to handle these obstacles with confidence, ensuring your paper aligns perfectly every time.
Preparing Your Workspace and Materials
Before you even unroll a single sheet, preparation is the cornerstone of a clean installation. The difference between a frustrating struggle and a smooth application comes down to organization. You cannot successfully maneuver a ladder and a roll of paper while simultaneously trying to find a sharp pair of scissors or a pencil.
Begin by gathering your essential tools. You will need a medium-sized paint roller or a sponge brush for applying paste, a pre-measured wallpaper paste, a sturdy step stool, a utility knife with fresh blades, a metal straight edge or ruler, a seam roller, and a damp sponge or microfiber cloth for cleaning up excess adhesive. For cutting precise angles, a pair of sharp scissors is often more manageable than a knife. Having a small bucket of clean water and a lint-free cloth on hand is crucial for immediate error correction.
Measuring and Cutting Your First Sheet
The initial measurement sets the stage for the entire project. Do not default to the standard "drop and cut" method without accounting for the room's unique dimensions. You must measure from your chosen starting point—usually a corner or a plumb line on the wall—down to the baseboard, and then add an extra 2 to 4 inches. This overage is your safety margin, allowing you to trim the top and bottom for a perfect fit later without compromising the pattern match.
When you cut your sheet, use a sharp utility knife and a metal straight edge to ensure a clean, straight line. A ragged edge will make alignment difficult and create a weak seam. If your wallpaper has a pattern, visualize where the next sheet will need to fall and adjust your measurement accordingly to ensure the design flows seamlessly across the join.
Turning the Corner: The Kiss Cut Technique
Navigating a corner is the most common hurdle in wallpapering and requires a specific method known as the "kiss cut." The goal here is not to cut through the paper entirely but to slice only through the face paper and into the backing. This allows you to fold the paper neatly around the corner without creating a bulky double layer or causing the material to tear.
To execute this, position your pasted sheet against the corner, smoothing it out from the center point outward. Once the paper has relaxed and laid flat against both sides of the corner, use your utility knife to gently slice down the thickness of the paper. You should be able to see the backing material beneath the surface. Peel away the excess slit material, revealing a clean, sharp corner that lays flat without resistance.
Dealing with Electrical Outlets and Switches
Outlets and switches present a unique challenge because you must maintain full access to the screws for safety and functionality. The temptation to simply cut a hole in the paper is a rookie mistake that leads to uneven patches and a sloppy finish. The professional approach is to treat the outlet or switch as a precise window that you will trim around.
First, turn off the power at the circuit breaker to ensure your safety. Once the power is confirmed off, carefully remove the faceplate. Apply a small dot of paste directly onto the center of the outlet or switch cover. Carefully position your wallpaper sheet over the unit. Using your fingers or a soft cloth, gently smooth the paper down, creating a small pleat or "target" shape directly over the screw holes. Allow the paper to set for about 30 seconds to relax the fibers. Finally, use a sharp utility knife to trim away the excess paper, using the edge of the faceplate or the switch plate itself as a guide. Reattach the faceplate, restoring function to the fixture.
Handling Windows, Doors, and Fixtures
Large obstacles like windows and doors require a slightly different approach than small fixtures. The key principle here is to treat the paper as if the opening were not there initially. Paste and hang the entire sheet, allowing the paper to extend freely over the window or door frame. Smooth the paper out from the center, pushing out any air bubbles and ensuring the material lays flat against the casing.
Once the sheet is firmly in place, use a sharp pencil or a utility knife to trace the outline of the window or door frame directly onto the overlapping paper. Remove the paper from the wall and lay it flat on a cutting surface. Cut along your pencil line using a straight edge and a utility knife. This method guarantees that your cut lines are perfectly aligned with the fixture's borders, creating a crisp, professional finish when you rehang the sheet.
Final Trimming and Cleanup
After all the complex cuts are made and the paper is hanging smoothly, you will inevitably have excess material at the top and bottom of the wall. This is where your initial overage becomes essential. Using a sharp utility knife and a metal straight edge as a guide, trim the excess paper from the top, cutting against the ceiling line. For the bottom, you may find it easier to snap a tiny piece off the baseboard or trim it carefully to your desired length.
The final step is meticulous cleanup. Run your damp sponge or cloth over the entire surface of the wall to remove any dried paste haze and to smooth down the paper. Pay special attention to the seams and the areas around your kiss cuts and outlet cuts. A little warm water and gentle friction will erase any finger marks and brighten the color of the paper, revealing the true quality of your work and ensuring the longevity of your newly papered walls.
