The year 1920, marking the end of the Victorian era and the start of the Roaring Twenties, brought significant changes in fashion, moving away from the corseted silhouettes of the past and embracing a newfound freedom and voluptuary. This period, often referred to as the Jazz Age, saw an evolution in women's fashion, characterized by a looser, more comfortable fit, and a shift in men's fashion, emphasizing a youthful and dapper style.
1920 was a transitional year in fashion, with many trends from the previous decade still holding sway, while new styles started to emerge. The first cine-journals and fashion magazines began to surface in this era, making it easier to disseminate trends and bringing the world of fashion to the masses.
The New Silhouette: Relaxed and Loose
The turn of the decade saw a dramatic shift in women's fashion, moving away from the tight, restrictive corsets popular in the late 19th century. The hourglass figure was replaced with a straighter, more relaxed silhouette, allowing women to move more freely.
This new shape was often created using bias-cut fabrics, which drape and hang differently than traditional straight-grain fabrics. This technique, pioneered by designers like Paul Poiret, created an illusion of simplicity and ease, despite the garments often being quite complex in construction.
Flapper Dresses and the Bobbed Haircut
The Flapper dress, made popular in the late 1920s, was the embodiment of this new silhouette. Loose and unstructured, often made from soft, lightweight materials like silk and jersey, these dresses fell straight from the shoulders to the knee or just below, with a dropped waistline that emphasized the straight, boyish figure.
Paired with a bobbed haircut, which was also gaining popularity, the Flapper look was a bold departure from the past. The bob, originally a symbol of women's liberation and gefreie Jugend (free youth) movement, was easily maintained and made women's lives far more convenient.
Moroccan and Eastern Influences
1920 saw a surge of interest in Moroccan and Eastern fashions, as French and British troops returned from the colonies, bringing with them new ideas and cultural influences. Designers like Paul Poiret were heavily influenced by these cultures, incorporating rich colors, embroidery, and exotic patterns into their designs.
Poiret was particularlyatius in reintroducing the hobble skirt, a style popular in the late 19th century that featured a narrow, tight-fitting skirt, often made from draped or pleated fabric. Despite its restrictive nature, the hobble skirt enjoyed a brief revival in 1920, before giving way to looser styles.
Men's Fashion: Youthful and Dapper
In contrast to the dramatic changes in women's fashion, men's fashion in 1920 was more about refinement and detail, rather than dramatic change. The suits of this era were characterized by their youthfulness and dapperness, reflecting the growing influence of youth culture and the jazz age.
The ideal of the young, slender man was emphasized, with suits becoming shorter and closer-fitting than in previous decades. Trousers were often tapered, ending just above the ankle, and waistcoats became narrower and more closely fitted.
Chinos and Plus Fours
For more casual attire, chinos and plus fours became popular. Chinos, originally Italian military trousers, were made from durable cotton twill and featured a straight leg, with no cuff. Plus fours, longer than their name suggests, were often made from the same fabric as chinos, and were popular for their practicality and sporty appearance.
Both chinos and plus fours were often worn with a sweater or sports shirt, emphasizing the relaxed, active lifestyle of the new decade. This look was further popularized by the Duke of Windsor, who was a keen sportsman and a style icon of the time.
The Gatsby Style: Dapper and Refined
The other end of the men's fashion spectrum in 1920 was the Gatsby style, characterized by its refinement and elegance. Suits were often made from fine worsted wool, in dark blues, greys, or blacks, and featured wide peak lapels and three pieces.
Accessories were a crucial part of the Gatsby look, with gloves, ties, pocket squares, and hats all playing a role. The trend for broad, soft-shouldered jackets, so popular in the late 19th century, began to decline in 1920, giving way to a more streamlined, modern silhouette.
Fashion in 1920 was a time of change and transition, both in terms of style and craftsmanship. While some trends were just beginning to emerge, others were holding on stubbornly from the past. Yet, amidst this flux, what was clear was a newfound sense of freedom, ease, and youthfulness that would come to define the Roaring Twenties.