The Sears dovetail jig is one of those workshop tools that never got the spotlight, yet it helped thousands of woodworkers cut clean drawer joints without spending Leigh or Porter-Cable money. Sold primarily under the Craftsman banner through Sears stores and catalogs, these jigs were affordable, compact, and surprisingly capable when set up with care. Today, they mostly live on the used market, in grandfather’s shop, or on a bottom shelf behind a stack of clamps.
If you have inherited a Sears Craftsman dovetail jig or spotted one at a flea market, the real question is whether it can still earn bench space. The short answer is yes, provided you understand its template system, its limits, and the small adjustments that separate frustrating tear-out from tight, repeatable half-blind dovetails.
What the Sears Dovetail Jig Actually Is
A Sears dovetail jig is a router-guided template jig, not a standalone cutting machine. It holds two boards at right angles while a router bit, guided by a bushing that follows a metal or plastic template, cuts matching pin and tail shapes. The jig usually includes an aluminum base, adjustable stops, clamps or hold-down knobs, and a finger template that controls the spacing of the joint.
Most Sears and Craftsman models were designed for half-blind dovetails, the classic joint used on drawer fronts where the pins do not show through the face. Some kits included extra templates or accessories for through dovetails, but the core design remained the same: a fixed-spacing template, a guide bushing, and a dovetail bit. It is a manual, repeatable system that rewards patience far more than brute force.
Common Craftsman and Sears Models
You will often see model numbers beginning with 315, such as the Craftsman 315.25931 and similar 315.259xx variants. That 315 prefix generally points to Ryobi as the original manufacturer for Sears, which explains why some parts and manuals feel familiar to owners of Ryobi-era routers and accessories. These jigs were sold from the 1980s into the 2000s, sometimes in complete kits with a dovetail bit, guide bushing, wrench, and molded case.
Because Sears sourced tools across different production runs, not every jig is identical. Template finger spacing, base width, and hardware can vary by catalog year. If you are buying used, check for the manual or download one by model number before assuming a missing bushing or bit is easy to replace. The good news is that many standard Porter-Cable-style guide bushings and 14-degree dovetail bits can work with these jigs when matched correctly.
How the Template and Guide Bushing System Works
The router bit spins inside a guide bushing, and the outside of that bushing rides against the template fingers. The difference between the bushing diameter and the bit diameter creates an offset, which determines how tightly the pins and tails fit. If the bushing is worn, bent, or the wrong size, no amount of clamping pressure will fix a sloppy joint.
The template finger spacing sets the pin and tail layout, which is why these jigs are considered fixed-spacing tools. You can adjust depth of cut to fine-tune fit, and you can shim or reposition the template slightly, but you cannot easily create variable-spaced dovetails without a different template or a more advanced jig. That limitation is the trade-off for the Sears jig’s low cost and simple operation.
Setting Up, Using, and Improving a Sears Dovetail Jig
Setup starts long before the router is plugged in. Stock preparation matters more than most beginners expect. Boards need to be flat, square at the ends, and consistent in thickness. If one drawer side is 1/64 inch thicker than the other, the template will reference off different surfaces, and the joint will fit differently from left to right.
Mount the jig securely to a stable bench or a thick plywood base. A jig that shifts mid-cut will produce chipped shoulders and uneven depths. Set the stops for board width and thickness, choose the correct template, and confirm that the guide bushing is concentric. Modern alternatives like Leigh, Porter-Cable, Rockler, and Incra jigs offer more versatility, but a used Sears jig can still cut excellent drawer boxes when tuned properly.
Step-by-Step Setup for Half-Blind Dovetails
Clamp the pin board and tail board according to your manual, because Sears changed configurations across model years. In most half-blind setups, one board stands vertically while the other sits flat under the template, with the template fingers aligned to the board edge. Set the edge stop so the joint is centered or offset exactly as your project requires, then lock every knob firmly but without crushing the wood.
Install the correct dovetail bit and guide bushing, set the router depth using scrap pieces of the same thickness, and make a test cut. Rout in controlled passes rather than plunging deep in one move. Test-fit the scrap joint, adjust depth slightly if needed, and only then cut the actual drawer parts. Label your setup with tape or a shop note so you can repeat it later without starting from scratch.
Tuning Fit and Restoring a Used Sears Jig
If the joint is too loose, increase the bit depth in tiny increments; if it is too tight, reduce depth slightly. Tear-out usually means the bit is dull, the feed is too fast, or the workpiece lacks backer support. Use a sharp bit, take light passes, and keep downward pressure on the router base. A worn template finger can also cause inconsistent fit, so inspect the fingers for grooves and flat spots before blaming your technique.
Restoring a used Sears dovetail jig is usually straightforward. Clean rust from the base with fine steel wool and a light oil, then apply paste wax to sliding surfaces. Replace missing knobs, bolts, and bushings with compatible hardware, and download the manual for your model number. Store the jig in a case or on a shelf where the template will not get bent. With a fresh bit, a matched bushing, and a few test cuts, an old Craftsman jig can still produce drawer joints that feel tailor-made.
If you spot a Sears dovetail jig at a yard sale, do not dismiss it as obsolete. Bring a scrap board, a sharp dovetail bit, and a little patience. Set it up carefully, make a test cut, and let the old template prove that good joinery is often more about understanding the tool than chasing the newest one.