When severe weather threatens or a property will be vacant for an extended period, boarding up a house is often the most practical way to protect the investment inside. This process involves securing openings like windows, doors, and other vulnerable points with durable materials to create a physical barrier against the elements, vandalism, and theft. For homeowners and property managers, understanding the correct methods and materials is essential for doing the job right the first time.
Why Boarding Up is Necessary
Extreme weather events, such as hurricanes and Nor’easters, generate wind and rain capable of causing significant damage. Standard window glass can shatter under pressure, turning a pane of glass into a projectile that can destroy the interior or injure occupants. Boarding up with thick plywood or metal sheets absorbs this energy, keeping the building envelope intact and preventing the interior from being exposed to the elements.
Beyond disaster preparedness, boarding is a critical security measure for construction sites or foreclosed homes. Unoccupied structures are prime targets for copper theft and general vandalism, which can strip a property of valuable wiring and appliances in a matter of hours. A securely boarded house signals to intruders that the property is not an easy target, often deterring opportunistic crime.
Essential Materials and Tools
Choosing the right materials determines the effectiveness of the boarding job. While thin plastic sheeting might seem like a quick fix, it offers zero structural protection and is easily torn by wind or debris. Opt for materials that provide rigidity and strength to ensure the barrier holds up under duress.
- 5/8-inch Exterior Grade Plywood: The industry standard for residential boarding. It is thick enough to resist bending and can be cut to fit standard window and door sizes.
- 3/16-inch Polycarbonate Sheetting: An excellent alternative for homeowners who need to allow light in, such as for basement windows, as it is virtually unbreakable.
- Metal Roofing Screws and Washers: Essential for a tight, secure hold that won't loosen in high winds.
You will also need a sturdy ladder, a circular saw or hand saw, a drill with a screwdriver bit, a tape measure, and a pencil. Ensure every tool is functional before you begin the project to avoid wasting time mid-task.
Step-by-Step Boarding Process
Preparation is key to an efficient installation. Start by cleaning the window wells and removing any debris that could interfere with the plywood lying flat against the wall. Measure each opening horizontally and vertically, noting that frames are rarely perfectly square. Cut the wood slightly larger than the opening if necessary, as it is easier to trim excess material than to piece together a gap.
When installing the boards, never simply lay them flat on the ground and lift them into place. This strains the frame. Instead, have a partner help lift the board into position, align it roughly with the frame, and then screw it down starting from the center and working outward. This method prevents the wood from bowing or warping as you secure it.
| Material | Best Use Case | Durability |
| 5/8" Plywood | Primary hurricane protection | High |
| Corrugated Metal | High-wind commercial properties | Very High |
| Polycarbonate | Preserving natural light | Medium-High |
Securing Entry Points
Windows are not the only concern; doors require equal attention. Standard hollow-core interior doors provide no resistance against forced entry. If the house is unoccupied, replacing the interior door with a solid wood or metal door for the duration of the absence adds a layer of security that is often overlooked.
Don't forget garage doors. These large panels are vulnerable to being pulled down by leverage. Place a sturdy wooden dowel or a commercial anti-lift kit into the tracks of the garage door to prevent it from being raised by intruders. A locked deadbolt on the interior of the garage door is the final step in securing this common entry point.
Interior Protection Strategies
Boarding up is not just about the exterior. Once the outer shell is secure, the interior needs protection to maintain its value. Water leaking through a small gap in the plywood can ruin drywall and foster mold growth inside the walls. To combat this, plastic sheeting should be stapled over sensitive fixtures like bathtubs and sinks to catch any accidental drips.
If the house is left vacant for months, setting the thermostat to a moderate temperature (around 55°F in winter, 85°F in summer) is crucial. This prevents pipes from freezing and bursting in cold climates and stops wood from drying out and cracking in extreme heat. Leaving cabinet doors open slightly allows air to circulate around the kitchen and bathroom, preventing musty odors.
Removing the Boards
Removing the boarding is just as important as installing it correctly. If plywood is left on for too long, especially in humid climates, it can trap moisture against the siding and paint, causing permanent damage. Upon removal, inspect the wood for warping or rot; damaged boards should be replaced before storage.
As you take the boards down, check the condition of the window frames and sills. Look for cracks, peeling paint, or signs of insect damage that may have occurred while the house was sealed. Addressing these minor issues immediately prevents them from becoming major, expensive repairs when you move back in or list the property for sale.
