Feature Story

"Trimming a Built-In: Step-by-Step Guide"

Trimming out a built-in cabinet, also known as a built-in box, involves removing an existing cabinet to create a new opening in your wall. This process is often necessary when you're planning to install a new cabinet, countertop, or appliance that doesn't fit in the existing space. Here's a comprehensive guide on how to trim out a built-in, ensuring a clean and professional finish.

Adding Trim To Cabinets & Bookshelves
Adding Trim To Cabinets & Bookshelves

Preparation: Tools and Materials

DIY Office Built-Ins: IKEA Billy Bookcase Hack
DIY Office Built-Ins: IKEA Billy Bookcase Hack

Before you start, gather the necessary tools and materials:

  • Tape measure
  • Circular saw
  • Jigsaw
  • Hammer
  • Pry bar
  • Screwdriver (Philips and flathead)
  • Utility knife
  • Chisel
  • Safety glasses
  • Dust mask
  • Work gloves
  • New cabinet or appliance
  • Construction adhesive
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper (120-grit)
  • Paint or stain (matching existing finish)
CUSTOM BUILT-IN: HOW TO FINISH WITH TRIM AND PAINT
CUSTOM BUILT-IN: HOW TO FINISH WITH TRIM AND PAINT

Step-by-Step Guide: Trimming Out a Built-In

1. Measure and Plan

Old Built-Ins? Watch This Transformation!
Old Built-Ins? Watch This Transformation!

Start by measuring the dimensions of the new cabinet or appliance you want to install. Then, measure the existing built-in cabinet to determine how much needs to be removed. Sketch a plan to ensure you're removing the correct sections.

2. Disconnect Utilities

If the built-in cabinet contains electrical outlets or plumbing, disconnect the utilities before proceeding. Always turn off power to the outlets at the main electrical panel before working on them.

380K views · 7.5K reactions | DIY Living Room Built Ins with fireplace Part 3 | By Designing | Welcome to part three my living room built ins. If you include the flooring and the fireplace build, this project has taken me just over a year to complete and I cannot wait for it to be done. Last time we left off, I had installed my cabinets and built four separate shelving units out of oak boards and I decided to stain my shelves to try to keep some natural wood on this project. I got the best looking thin plywood that I could find for the back of these shelves. I didn't want super thick plywood because then my shelves would stick out too far. I started attaching all my backs and realized very quickly that I was just building a playground attached. I also primed and painted all of these back pieces before attaching them so I wouldn't have to tape off my stained shelves to paint them later. After going through far more paint samples than I want to admit or that I ever want to see again, I finally decided on a color and went ahead and started priming and painting all of my cabinets. I usually like to prime by hand because primer can really clog up your paint sprayer and let's be honest, I just don't have my life together enough to clean my sprayer fast enough for it to not get clogged. So, I used a brush for the edges and then a foam roller for all the flat pieces to prime the cab and then I use my paint sprayer to spray the actual paint on the fronts and the backs. I attached all my shelves into the studs and the walls and now it was time to add some trim to make up for all of those uneven walls and maybe some mistakes. The one side of these shelves is exposed into the dining room so I decided to add a little bit of his shaker style trim around that side to give it a little bit more character instead of just a plain wall. Since no wall is ever straight, I had to use a level on every single one of these trim pieces to make sure that my trim was actually straight and not lining up against the wall and we'll fix that with the caulk later. Filling nail holes and caulking really isn't that bad but I was sick at the end of this project so this is probably my least favorite part of this entire process. This part and the rest of the painting really only took a couple days but since I was sick, it felt like an eternity. Now, before you come at me for painting this wood, I had to use a different type of wood on the trim pieces than I did for the shelves so if I stained them, they wouldn't match. I added battery-powered picture frame lights to the top of these units and then some gold handles to finish it all off. I am so happy to almost be done with this living room project. And I love how it turned out but I'm so ready to put my furniture back.
380K views · 7.5K reactions | DIY Living Room Built Ins with fireplace Part 3 | By Designing | Welcome to part three my living room built ins. If you include the flooring and the fireplace build, this project has taken me just over a year to complete and I cannot wait for it to be done. Last time we left off, I had installed my cabinets and built four separate shelving units out of oak boards and I decided to stain my shelves to try to keep some natural wood on this project. I got the best looking thin plywood that I could find for the back of these shelves. I didn't want super thick plywood because then my shelves would stick out too far. I started attaching all my backs and realized very quickly that I was just building a playground attached. I also primed and painted all of these back pieces before attaching them so I wouldn't have to tape off my stained shelves to paint them later. After going through far more paint samples than I want to admit or that I ever want to see again, I finally decided on a color and went ahead and started priming and painting all of my cabinets. I usually like to prime by hand because primer can really clog up your paint sprayer and let's be honest, I just don't have my life together enough to clean my sprayer fast enough for it to not get clogged. So, I used a brush for the edges and then a foam roller for all the flat pieces to prime the cab and then I use my paint sprayer to spray the actual paint on the fronts and the backs. I attached all my shelves into the studs and the walls and now it was time to add some trim to make up for all of those uneven walls and maybe some mistakes. The one side of these shelves is exposed into the dining room so I decided to add a little bit of his shaker style trim around that side to give it a little bit more character instead of just a plain wall. Since no wall is ever straight, I had to use a level on every single one of these trim pieces to make sure that my trim was actually straight and not lining up against the wall and we'll fix that with the caulk later. Filling nail holes and caulking really isn't that bad but I was sick at the end of this project so this is probably my least favorite part of this entire process. This part and the rest of the painting really only took a couple days but since I was sick, it felt like an eternity. Now, before you come at me for painting this wood, I had to use a different type of wood on the trim pieces than I did for the shelves so if I stained them, they wouldn't match. I added battery-powered picture frame lights to the top of these units and then some gold handles to finish it all off. I am so happy to almost be done with this living room project. And I love how it turned out but I'm so ready to put my furniture back.

3. Remove the Doors and Hardware

Carefully remove the cabinet doors and any hardware, such as hinges and knobs. Label each door and its corresponding hinge location for easy reassembly later.

4. Demolish the Cabinet

a person is painting the inside of a white bookcase with paint rollers on it
a person is painting the inside of a white bookcase with paint rollers on it

Using a utility knife, score the cabinet's back and sides where you'll be cutting. This helps prevent the saw from binding during the cutting process. Then, using a circular saw or jigsaw, cut along the scored lines, following your plan. Be sure to wear safety glasses and a dust mask during this step.

Once you've cut through the cabinet, use a pry bar and hammer to carefully remove the sections you no longer need. You may need to use a chisel to break apart any stubborn pieces.

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5. Prepare the Opening

Remove any remaining hardware, nails, or screws from the opening. Use wood filler to patch any holes or gaps, and allow it to dry completely. Sand the area smooth with 120-grit sandpaper.

6. Install the New Cabinet or Appliance

Position the new cabinet or appliance in the opening, ensuring it's level and plumb. Use shims if necessary to achieve a perfect fit. Apply construction adhesive along the cabinet's back and sides to secure it to the wall.

If the new cabinet or appliance is not the same size as the old one, you may need to build a frame or use filler pieces to create a seamless transition. Ensure the new cabinet or appliance is securely attached to the studs using screws or nails.

7. Reinstall Doors and Hardware

Reattach the cabinet doors using the labels you created earlier. Test the doors to ensure they open and close smoothly. If necessary, adjust the hinges or fill any gaps with wood filler.

8. Paint or Stain

To match the existing finish, paint or stain the new cabinet or appliance using the same color and technique. Allow the paint or stain to dry completely before using the cabinet or appliance.

Tips for a Professional Finish

To achieve a professional-looking result, consider these tips:

  • Use a level and measuring tape to ensure accurate cuts and a straight opening.
  • Wear safety gear, including gloves, glasses, and a dust mask, to protect yourself from debris and injuries.
  • Test fit the new cabinet or appliance before making final cuts to ensure it fits perfectly.
  • If you're unsure about any aspect of the process, consult a professional or contact the manufacturer of the new cabinet or appliance for guidance.

Trimming out a built-in cabinet can be a challenging task, but with the right tools, materials, and knowledge, you can achieve a clean and professional finish. By following this comprehensive guide, you'll be well on your way to creating a new, functional space in your home.