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ISBN 978-1-4027-9330-1

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

The essential New York times grilling cookbook : more than 100 years of sizzling food writing and recipes / edited by Peter Kaminsky ; foreword by Mark Bittman ; other contributors include Craig Claiborne, Pierre Franey, Florence Fabricant, Steven Raichlen, Molly O’Neill, Julia Moskin, and many more.
       pages cm
   Includes index.
   ISBN 978-1-4027-9324-0
   1. Barbecuing. I. Kaminsky, Peter. II. Title: Grilling cookbook.
   TX840.B3E85 2014
   641.5’784–dc23

2013026602

Designed by Christine Heun

For information about custom editions, special sales, and premium and corporate purchases, please contact Sterling Special Sales at 800-805-5489 or specialsales@sterlingpublishing.com.

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Contents

Foreword Mark Bittman

Introduction: Light My Fire Peter Kaminsky

101 Fast Recipes for Grilling Mark Bittman

CHAPTER 1

Starters

Grilled-Onion Guacamole Molly O’Neill

Grilled-Scallion Salad Mark Bittman

Grilled Leeks with Romesco Sauce Martha Rose Shulman

LOOKING BACK: Mr. Gunning’s Barbecue

Barbecued Eggplant and Pine Nut Appetizer

Piquant, Savory Corn Fritters with Sautéed Vegetables Susan Spicer

Grilled Pizza with Italian Cheeses and Bitter Greens Steven Raichlen

Self-Opening Grilled Clams Melissa Clark

Grilled Clams with Lemon-Cayenne Butter

Grilled Clams with Fried Garlic Steven Raichlen

When the Park Is Your Kitchen Matt Lee and Ted Lee

Ginger and Chili Grilled Shrimp

Shrimp Mojo de Ajo Susan Herrmann Loomis

French Thoughts on U.S. Barbecue Craig Claiborne

Brochette de Rognon de Veau (Veal Kidney on Skewers)

Brochettes de Fruits de Mer (Seafood on Skewers)

Diners and Dinner, Close to the Flame Julia Moskin

Chicken Yakitori

Crisp and Unctuous Pork Belly Oliver Schwaner-Albright

CHAPTER 2

Burgers

Happy Birthday, Hamburger! Marian Burros

Beef Tartare Burger Mark Bittman

Broiled Chopped Beefsteak Scandinavian-Style Pierre Franey

Grilled Chili Burger Craig Claiborne

In Paris, Burgers Turn Chic Jane Sigal

Café Salle Pleyel Burger

Balkan Burgers (Pljeskavica) Julia Moskin

Pork-Fennel Burgers Mark Bittman

A Play Date with Champagne and Burgers Alex Witchel

Japanese Burgers with Wasabi Ketchup

Curry-Spiced Lamb Burgers Mark Bittman

Shu Mai-Style Burgers Mark Bittman

Salmon Burgers Mark Bittman

Grilled Tuna Burger with Ginger Mayonnaise Mark Bittman

Turkey and Vegetable Burgers Martha Rose Shulman

Watermelon Burgers with Cheese Mark Bittman

Portobello Mushroom Cheeseburgers Martha Rose Shulman

Sit-Down Comedy Mimi Sheraton

CHAPTER 3

Beef and Veal

Before the Sunday Kickoff, Tailgating with Gusto Peter Kaminsky

Gremlin Grill’s Prime Rib

Thai Beef Laura Thorne and Jeff Trujillo

LOOKING BACK: News of Food: Eisenhower’s Recipe for Cooking Steak Calls for Throwing It Right on the Fire Jane Nickerson

Filet of Beef with Roquefort Butter La Residence, Chapel Hill, North Carolina

Barbecued Steak au Poivre Bryan Miller

The Best Cuts for Grilling Steak Mark Bittman

Grilled Flank Steak Matt Lee and Ted Lee

The Texas Three-Step Molly O’Neill

Barbecued Flank Steak

In Seoul, Let the Eating Begin Elaine Louie

Bulgogi (Korean Barbecued Beef)

Marinated London Broil with Béarnaise Sauce Bryan Miller

The Taco Joint in Your Kitchen Mark Bittman

Grilled Carne Asada for Tacos

Baltimore Pit Beef Sandwich Steven Raichlen

In the Style of the Gauchos: A Brazilian Barbecue Craig Claiborne

As Linguicas (The Portuguese Sausages) Dorothea Elman

As Costelas de Bife (The Beef Ribs) Dorothea Elman

As Galinghas (The Chickens) Dorothea Elman

Porco (The Pork) Dorothea Elman

Carneiro (The Lamb) Dorothea Elman

Texas-Style Brisket Steven Raichlen

Smoky Brisket Molly O’Neill

Burgers Without Borders Julia Moskin

Syrian Beef Kebabs

Beef Brochettes with Red Peppers and Coriander Pierre Franey

Scouts Make a Camp Stew in Foil; Bacon and Eggs on Can Top

Veal Chops with Summer Savory Moira Hodgson

Grilled Medallion of Veal with Mustard and Chive Sauce Laura Thorne and Jeff Trujillo

CHAPTER 4

Pork

Table to Farm Christine Muhlke

Grilled Pork Porterhouse with an Apple-Maple-Ginger Sauce

Grilled Pork Chops with Fried Sage Leaves Moira Hodgson

Time and Smoke, the Soul of Barbecue Steve Raichlen

North Carolina-Style Pulled Pork

Vietnamese Pork Kebabs Julia Moskin

Wine Salt: Easier to Make Than to Imagine Melissa Clark

Grilled Pork Loin with Wine-Salt Rub

Grilled Marinated Pork Loin Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Grilled Pork and Peaches Sam Sifton

The Art of Barbecue Evan Jones

Barbecued Pork Tenderloin

Barbecued Spareribs

Fatty ’Cue Spare Ribs Sam Sifton

Braised and Grilled Pork Ribs Mark Bittman

Pork Barbecue Alex Ward

Brochette de Porc au Romarin (Brochettes of Pork with Rosemary) Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey

Garlic Roasted Pork Shoulder Steven Raichlen

Roasting a Pig Inside an Enigma Sam Sifton

Bacon Explosion Damon Darlin

CHAPTER 5

Lamb

Adana Kebabs Julia Moskin

Grilled Lamb and Figs on Rosemary Skewers Mark Bittman

Brochettes d’Agneau a l’Estragon (Lamb Brochettes with Tarragon) Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey

Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Sorrel Sauce Moira Hodgson

Evening in Central Park Florence Fabricant

Grilled Lamb Fillet

Grilled Spring Lamb Chops with Cabernet-and-Caper Butter Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey

Hold the Mayo! First Up, Rouille Melissa Clark

Grilled Lamb Chops with Rouille and Cherry Tomatoes

Glazed Lamb Ribs Sam Sifton

Variations on the Barbecue Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey

Ed Giobbi’s Whole-Lamb Barbecue Ed Giobbi

Loin Lamb Steaks with Rosemary Pierre Franey

A Whole Lamb Done to a Turn in the Greek Tradition Florence Fabricant

CHAPTER 6

Poultry

Chicken Breasts Marinated in Basil Oil with Tomato-and-Red-Onion Salad Molly O’Neill

Grilled Chicken Breast Salad with Curry Dressing Pierre Franey

For Perfectly Cooked Chicken, Use Both Sides of the Grill Mark Bittman

Grilled Chicken with Chipotle Sauce

Grilled Chicken with Mediterranean Flavors

Twice-Cooked Mock Tandoori Chicken Mark Bittman

Splendor in the Lemongrass Molly O’Neill

Cambodian Barbecued Chicken

Grilled Tabasco Chicken Jacques Pepin

Sweet Heat: For Jamaicans, It’s About Jerk Julia Moskin

Jerk Chicken

Poulet Grille au Gingembre (Grilled Chicken with Ginger) Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey

Gaylord’s Tandoori Chicken Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey

LOOKING BACK: Volunteer Firemen’s Picnic

Jalapeño-Stuffed Game Hens Molly O’Neill

Pakistani Seekh Kebabs Julia Moskin

Barbecued Cornish Hens Pierre Franey

Cooks Move Beyond Humble Hot Dog Bryan Miller

Grilled Squabs with Thyme

Grilled Spiced Squab Joyce Goldstein

Ed Gorman’s Grilled Quails with Ginger and Sherry Bryan Miller

Magret of Duck Gascon Style Bryan Miller

Grilled Turkey Breast with Chive Butter Pierre Franey

CHAPTER 7

Fish and Shellfish

The Tricks for Perfect Fish on the Grill Florence Fabricant

Halibut with Indian Rub and Corn Salsa

Charred Striped Bass Niçoise

Charcoal-Grilled Striped Bass Craig Claiborne

Greek-Style Fish with Marinated Tomatoes Mark Bittman

Seafood of the Desert Susan Herrmann Loomis

Stephan Pyles’s Grilled Redfish with Smoked Tomato Salsa and Black-Eyed Peas–Jicama Relish Stephen Pyles

White-Fish Fillets with Grilled Cabbage Mark Bittman

Grilled Fish with Aromatics Gerard Allemandou

Grilled Snapper with Cumin Gerard Allemandou

Grilled Whole Porgy with Lime Butter Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey; recipe by Laura Thorne and Jeff Trujillo

A Lesson on Cooking Fish Nelson Bryant

Grilled Sardines Martha Rose Shulman

Marinated Grilled Swordfish Florence Fabricant

Grilled Swordfish Steaks with Orange Thyme Sauce Moira Hodgson

Grilled Swordfish with Tomato and Onion Relish Laura Thorne and Jeff Trujillo

Marinated Broiled Tuna Steaks with Sauce Niçoise Pierre Franey

Broiled Tuna Couscous Salad Pierre Franey

Grilled Salmon with Herb-Butter Sauce and Tomatoes Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey; recipe from Alfred Portale

Wild Alaskan Salmon: The Glory Days Are Here Timothy Egan

Grilled Copper River King Salmon Fillet

Smoked Redfish Louviere Michel Patout

Dry-Cured Smoked Salmon Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Grilled Shellfish with “Barbecue Sauce” Mark Bittman

Paella à la Giner Jean Hewitt

LOOKING BACK: Politics and Clams

Shrimps Wilder Craig Claiborne

Grilled Soft-Shell Crabs with Scallions, Ginger and Deep-Fried Capers Alfred Portale

Grilled Lobster Mark Bittman

Alice Waters’s Charcoal Grilled Lobster Jay Harlow

CHAPTER 8

Vegetables and Sides

Tuscan Grilled Summer Vegetables Molly O’Neill

Salada de Legumes (Brazilian Vegetable Salad) Dorothea Elman

Throw Another Melon on the Barbie Mark Bittman

Vietnamese-Style Portobello Mushrooms

Chili-Rubbed Jicama Steaks with Queso Fresco

Teriyaki Cabbage Steaks

Curry-Rubbed Sweet-Potato Planks

Miso-Glazed Eggplant Slices

Grilled Ratatouille Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Roasted Eggplant in Yogurt Mahbubeh Stave

Radicchio Grilled with Olive Paste and Anchovies Steven Raichlen

Grilled Leeks with White Beans and Blue Cheese Alfred Portale

Great Roasted Peppers: First, Get a Pile of Wood Mark Bittman

Charred Peppers

Grilled Corn on the Cob with Chipotle Mayonnaise Martha Rose Shulman

Corn Pudding Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Corn-Bread Salad Regina Schrambling

Hobo Pack of New Potatoes, Red Onion and Orange Matt Lee and Ted Lee

Potato Fondantes with Oregano Jacques Pepin

Smashed Potatoes with Tapenade Oliver Schwaner-Albright

Hot Potato Salad with Herbs Craig Claiborne

Korean Potato Salad Mark Bittman

Sesame Spinach and Tofu Mark Bittman

Drunken Beans Molly O’Neill

Spicy Baked Beans Florence Fabricant

LOOKING BACK: Ralph R. Olswang, A Manufacturer: Inventor of the Outdoor Grill for Barbecues Dies at 56

Rooster Baked Beans Marcus Samuelsson

Black Beans and White Rice Esther Veiga

Jamaican Rice with Coconut and Red Beans Julia Moskin

Rice Chello Mahbubeh Stave

Crusty Macaroni and Cheese Julia Moskin

Jicama Coleslaw Molly O’Neill

Onion Slaw Jeffrey Buben

Zucchini with Basil Oil and Mint Molly O’Neill

CHAPTER 9

Desserts and Breads

A Dessert That Dances on the Grill Kay Rentschler

Grilled Mango with Sweet Sticky Rice Cakes and Pistachios

Grilled Nectarines with Cinnamon Toast and Berries

Grilled Plums with Star Fruit

Burnt Oranges with Rosemary Oliver Schwaner-Albright

Grilled Peaches with Dukkah and Blueberries Ligaya Mishan

LOOKING BACK: Outdoor Cookery: The Inside Story John Willig

Skewered Grilled Fruit with Ginger Syrup Mark Bittman

Danish Rice Pudding with Fresh Cherries Susan Spicer

Guava Crème Brûlée Jennifer Steinhauer

Coriander Ginger Cake Bill and Cindy Clark

Rose Water Adds a Subtle Kick John Willoughby

Grilled Rose-Water Poundcake

Raspberry Chocolate Mousse Cakes Florence Fabricant

Maury Rubin’s Grilled Chocolate Sandwich Michael Boodro

Breads of All Sorts, Grilled to a Turn Steven Raichlen

Grilled Walnut-Olive Bread with Exotic Mushroom

Hot from the Coals Grilled Herb Focaccia

Spider Bread Bill and Cindy Clark

Grilled Chapati Mark Bittman

Southern Shore Flavors Janet Bukovinsky

Sweet Potato Biscuits

CHAPTER 10

Marinades, Rubs, and Sauces

From “Barbecue Sauce as Individual as Each Creator” Dena Kleiman

Soy Sauce Marinade Craig Claiborne

Lemon Marinade Craig Claiborne

Tarragon Marinade Craig Claiborne

Spice Island Marinade Molly O’Neill

Korean Barbecue Molly O’Neill

For the Best Cuts, Here Are the Rubs Mark Bittman

Jerk Seasoning

Five-Spice Powder

Warm Curry Powder

Provençal Spice Rub Molly O’Neill

Thrill of the Grill Spice Paste Molly O’Neill

Barbecue Sauce as Individual as Each Creator Dena Kleiman

Cowtown Cookers’ Basic Barbecue Sauce

Carolina Basting Sauce

Blondell’s Barbecue Sauce Joan Blondell

Mango and Scotch Bonnet Barbecue Sauce Mark Militello

Bourbon Barbecue Sauce Mark Bittman

Ketchup Sauce for Barbecues Craig Claiborne

Lillian Jackson Duncan’s Superior Barbecue Sauce Craig Claiborne

Barbecuing with a World Full of Accents Steve Raichlen

French West Indian Sauce Chien

Romesco Sauce

Georgian Plum Sauce (Tkemali)

Vietnamese Pineapple-Shrimp Sauce

Watermelon Pico de Gallo Molly O’Neill

Honey Gremolata Oliver Schwaner-Albright

Madhur Jaffrey’s Fresh Green Chutney Craig Claiborne

LOOKING BACK: Topics of the Times: The Outdoor Grill and the Ego

Fresh Dried Chili Oil Oliver Schwaner-Albright

Sauce Chermella Craig Claiborne; recipe from Ninette Hayot Lukashok

3-Alarm Chili Sauce Craig Claiborne

Menu Ideas

Contributors : Current and Former Staff Members of The New York Times

Picture Credits