Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands

BETHANY PITTS

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Contents

Welcome to Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands

Quito

Northern Sierra

Central Sierra

Southern Sierra

The Oriente and the Amazon Basin

North and Central Coasts and Lowlands

The Southern Coast

The Galápagos Islands

Background

Essentials

Resources

Index

List of Maps

Photo Credits

Copyright

dancers at the Corpus Christi festival in Pujilí

WELCOME TO Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

BEST OF Ecuador

EXPLORE INDIGENOUS CULTURES

14 DAYS OF Ecoadventures

ADRENALINE RUSH

SURF’S UP!

Beach and Mountain Getaway

During my first visit to Ecuador, I wandered the colonial streets of Quito; marveled at the luminous water of the Quilotoa crater lake; and watched jewel-bright hummingbirds from a cloud-forest lodge. It was all unimaginably exotic and beautiful. But it was my Amazon experience that forever stamped this country into my heart. On a moonlit canoe journey, I glided silently across a lagoon amid giant lily pads illuminated by fireflies, accompanied by an orchestra of insects and frogs. Upon returning home, I promised myself that I would return one day.

I fulfilled my promise and moved here permanently 15 years ago. Since then I have fallen more in love with Ecuador every day.

I have spent the last decade discovering the hidden treasures of this diminutive nation. From my home, I can walk to beaches, mangroves, and tropical forests. In less than a day, I can be in the Amazon, Andes, or Galápagos Islands. It is no surprise to anyone who has spent time in Ecuador that this is the most biodiverse country in the world per unit area.

The people are as varied as the landscape. The Amazon alone is home to 11 Indigenous nationalities, including two uncontacted tribes, each with its own language and ancestral traditions. This is a country where shamans invoke jungle spirits in ancient ceremonies, and descendants of pre-Inca civilizations make pilgrimages to a sacred cave on the flanks of the mighty Chimborazo volcano.

Despite its astonishing wealth of attractions, much of Ecuador’s potential remains largely untapped, offering perhaps its best hope for a sustainable future. This book highlights destinations and projects that help conserve its natural ecosystems and benefit its warm, welcoming people, while providing visitors with authentic and magical experiences.

Be prepared, though. A holiday romance with Ecuador might just turn into the love of your life.

Pailón del Diablo waterfall, Baños

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

1 Hiking around the mesmerizing azure waters of volcanic lakes at Laguna Cuicocha and Laguna Quilotoa, two of Ecuador’s most iconic sights.

2 Waking up at an Amazon lodge to experience nature’s most impressive orchestration of life in the rainforest, where you might glimpse caimans, monkeys, or pink river dolphins before falling asleep to the jungle chorus.

3 Wandering amid colonial architecture, gazing up at cathedral spires, and getting lost along cobblestone streets in Quito’s Old Town or in the charming city of Cuenca.

4 Hiking to a sacred cave on the flanks of the colossal Chimborazo or to a mountain refuge on majestic Cotopaxi to understand why local people worship these volcanoes as deities.

5 Soaking up the surf scene in Montañita or Olón. Ride warm-water waves all day, then marvel at an extravagant sunset while sipping a mojito on the beach.

6 Discovering unique Indigenous cultures in the Sierra and the Amazon, where many of Ecuador’s ancestral peoples have opened their doors to visitors to share their traditional ways of life.

7 Biking the Ruta de las Cascadas in Baños, which takes intrepid cyclists past a series of spectacular waterfalls set amid verdant mountain scenery.

8 Watching the sun rise or set over the Vilcabamba valley, where the light shifts dramatically, illuminating lush green slopes and craggy peaks.

9 Exploring cloud-forest diversity by hiking, biking, or horseback riding through some of the world’s most biodiverse forests in Mindo, Intag, or the Podocarpus National Park, known for their orchids and astonishing birdlife.

10 Encountering land iguanas and giant tortoises fearlessly roving the lunar scenery of the Galápagos Islands, then snorkeling with curious seal pups and sea turtles, or diving with giant manta rays, hammerheads, and whale sharks.

Planning Your Trip

WHERE TO GO

Quito

A dramatic backdrop of Andean peaks and snowcapped volcanoes adds to the delight of exploring the cobblestone streets and elegant plazas of Quito’s Old Town, one of the best-preserved colonial cities in Latin America and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For a condor’s-eye view, brave the climb to the top of the Basílica’s tower. For fascinating insights into Ecuador’s pre-Columbian ancient cultures, visit one of the excellent museums. To escape into nature, the capital provides easy access to the verdant cloud forests of the Chocó Andino de Pichincha UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, one of the earth’s top five biological hot spots, which includes Mindo, a paradise for birders, and Maquipucuna, the best place in the world to see spectacled bears.

Northern Sierra

The northern Sierra’s most famous attraction is the Otavalo textile market, one of the oldest and largest on the continent. Nearby, the stunning volcanic crater lake of Cuicocha sits in the shadow of Volcán Cotacachi. Throughout the region, Indigenous artisans practice traditional crafts such as weaving and embroidery, and villages such as San Clemente offer the chance to share the Andean Kichwa way of life. The cloud-forested slopes of Intag provide some of the richest biodiversity on the planet and, farther north, the eerily beautiful El Ángel Ecological Reserve protects some of the country’s most pristine high-altitude páramo (moorland).

traditional Kichwa wooden festival masks, Otavalo

Central Sierra

The Avenue of the Volcanoes is a jaw-dropping procession of some of the world’s highest peaks, with the snowy flanks of picture-perfect Cotopaxi and colossal Chimborazo easily accessible as day trips. The volcanic crater lake Quilotoa, with its luminous turquoise water, is one of Ecuador’s most iconic sights. Baños is a hub for spa treatments and adventure sports, where a downhill bike ride past a series of waterfalls ends at the thundering Pailón del Diablo (Devil’s Cauldron). The idyllic colonial town of Alausí is a jumping-off point for some truly spectacular hikes. Much of the region is steeped in myth and legend, hosting unique celebrations fusing ancient Indigenous and Catholic traditions.

Southern Sierra

Forget itineraries and wander the colonial streets of Cuenca, Ecuador’s most charming city, gazing up at spires, cupolas, and geranium-covered wrought-iron balconies. Explore the country’s most important Inca ruins at Ingapirca, where the sun temple still stands. Be as active or as laid-back as you like in picturesque Vilcabamba, hiking and biking through the dramatic scenery or taking it in from a hammock after a relaxing massage. Visit rural villages for traditional crafts such as woven shawls, handmade guitars, filigree jewelry, and straw Panama hats. Discover the unique Indigenous culture of the Saraguros, direct descendants of the Incas. Find wilderness in the windswept páramos of El Cajas National Park and the untamed forests of Podocarpus.

The Oriente and the Amazon Basin

These mystical forests host nature’s most intricate and impressive orchestration of life, where 1 ha (2.5 ac) can contain as many tree species as all of North America. In a single river journey, a visitor might spot pink river dolphins swimming alongside the canoe, gigantic iridescent blue morpho butterflies flitting overhead, monkeys peering down from the branches, and macaws screeching in the treetops. The Oriente is also home to several Indigenous peoples, including two uncontacted tribes, many of whom still live by hunting and gathering. Powerful shamans communicate between the living forest and its human inhabitants and, it is rumored, can shape-shift into jaguars. Community tourism projects offer the opportunity to contribute toward the preservation of this ancient forest and its peoples.

North and Central Coasts and Lowlands

Swim with bioluminescent plankton in Mompiche’s crescent bay, or wake up to waves lapping a pristine cove full of tide pools at Playa Escondida. Inland, Playa de Oro is a community-run ecotourism project where wildcats are released into primary rainforest. Farther south, near-deserted beaches can be found in the province of Manabí. Machalilla National Park protects many Galápagos species, such as blue-footed boobies, and is the best place to see humpback whales. The Indigenous Tsáchila people near Santo Domingo keep their unique ancestral traditions alive and hold shamanic ceremonies in a candlelit underground chamber.

The Southern Coast

Guayaquil may be Ecuador’s largest metropolis, but the main attractions of this region lie outside the city. The beaches of Santa Elena province offer a laid-back lifestyle, great surf, and sensational sunsets. Inland is a jungly interior dotted with waterfalls, which can be explored with a hike or horseback ride in the protected tropical forest at Dos Mangas. The ancestral customs of the coast’s Indigenous peoples can be explored with day trips to nearby villages. The infrequently visited province of El Oro includes the charming mountain town of Zaruma, the petrified forest at Puyango, the dramatic labyrinthine rock formations rising from the páramo at Cerro de Arcos, and the lush green birding paradise of Buenaventura.

The Galápagos Islands

The legendary Galápagos Islands, located about 1,000 km (620 mi) west of Ecuador’s mainland, are in fact the peaks of underwater volcanoes. Because the islands developed in complete isolation, their flora and fauna are found nowhere else on earth. Visitors will encounter land iguanas and giant tortoises fearlessly roving the lunar scenery, with blue-footed boobies and frigate birds soaring overhead. Snorkelers can play with curious seal pups and admire the sunlight dappling the shells of sea turtles, while marine iguanas graze on seaweed from the rocks below. Those who venture farther underwater will discover some of the world’s best dive sites, with giant manta rays, hammerheads, and whale sharks.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

When to Go

Ecuador’s climate is so varied that it’s impossible to make sweeping generalizations. The Sierra, Amazon, and coast all have their own climates, and within these are countless microclimates, often depending on altitude. The good news is that there is no bad time to visit.

Broadly speaking, the coast is sunny and hot (around 30°C/86°F) from December to May, with heavy overnight rains February to March. It’s cooler (20-25°C/68-77°F) and grayer the rest of the year, especially August to November. The climate in the Galápagos mirrors the mainland coast. In the Sierra, daytime temperatures average 15-20°C (59-68°F), occasionally peaking at 25°C (77°F), with nights falling to 7-8°C (45-46°F) and sometimes dropping to freezing. The driest, warmest months are June to September, with December to May the wettest. Whatever the season, Andean weather is famous for providing “four seasons in one day” and can change quickly. The Amazon is hot and humid, with the wettest period April to May and the driest August to October. Year-round, daily highs average 30°C (86°F), with nighttime lows around 20°C (68°F). The northern Amazon is hotter than the south.

There are no national high or low tourism seasons, but accommodations are likely to be booked up—and may be double in price—around New Year’s, Carnival, and Easter.

Passports, Visas, and Entry Requirements

Travelers from the vast majority of countries do not require a visa to enter Ecuador and will be given a 90-day permit stamp upon arrival. This permit can only be issued once per year (i.e., if you are granted one on April 1, 2024, you cannot request another until April 1, 2025). A passport with validity of at least six months is required. You may be asked for proof of onward travel, but online services offering temporary flight reservations can get around this. The 90-day permit can be extended once, by paying a fee. After that, it’s possible to apply for various longer-term tourist and resident visas. If you are traveling from a country with a risk of yellow fever transmission, including Brazil, you may be asked for a vaccination certificate, which is valid for life.

Laguna Limoncocha

If you enter Ecuador via a land or river border from Peru or Colombia, you may be required to present a criminal record certificate from the country where you have lived for the last 5 years. The certificate must be legalized with the Hague Apostille and translated into Spanish. This requirement was introduced in January 2024 as part of a state of emergency and may be temporary; check the U.K. Foreign Office website (www.fco.gov.uk) before travel to check whether it’s still in effect. This requirement does not apply to those arriving by air.

To enter the Galápagos, it is necessary to show a reservation for a Galápagos hotel or cruise boat or a letter of invitation from a local resident of the islands, a return flight, and proof of health insurance. Maximum stay for a tourist is 60 days.

Vaccinations

All visitors should make sure their routine immunizations are up to date, along with hepatitis A and tetanus. Those whose activities may put them at extra risk should also consider hepatitis B, rabies, typhoid, and tuberculosis vaccinations. Yellow fever immunization is recommended for those traveling to the Amazon region and Esmeraldas province. A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required when entering Ecuador from a country where it is present and is valid for life. There is a low risk of malaria in the Amazon basin; bite avoidance is advised, rather than antimalarial medication.

Ecuador is a risk area for the Zika virus, which is usually mosquito-borne. The official advice is that pregnant women should postpone nonessential travel to Ecuador. Women should avoid becoming pregnant while in Ecuador and for eight weeks after leaving.

Transportation

Ecuador has two international airports, both modern and efficient: the Mariscal Sucre International Airport, located near the town of Tababela, about 12 km (7.5 mi) east of Quito, and José Joaquín de Olmedo International Airport in Guayaquil. A network of domestic airports across the country can be accessed in under an hour by plane from Quito. Guayaquil has direct domestic connections to Quito and the Galápagos. With some exceptions, mainland flights are generally economical (from $40 one-way). Flying to the Galápagos is more expensive (around $350 round-trip).

Ecuador’s bus system is comprehensive, reliable, and economical, and the main roads are generally good. For short journeys, taxis are readily available and affordable. For longer journeys, hiring a driver is an option, but it’s not cheap. Car rental is available in a few major cities, but driving in urban areas can be hair-raising.

BEST OF Ecuador

Ecuador is so compact that, if you plan it right and are prepared to move around, you can see a decent chunk of the country in just two weeks, traveling by bus. If you have an extra week and the available budget, consider adding a visit to the Galápagos Islands, easily accessible from Quito or Guayaquil.

Days 1-2

Quito

Explore Quito’s Old Town, taking in the churches, plazas, and museums of the historical center, before heading to the Museo Fundación Guayasamín and Capilla del Hombre, just north of New Town. Dine on the beautifully preserved colonial street of La Ronda or in the arty neighborhood of La Floresta, home to some of the city’s best restaurants.

Days 3-5

Option 1: Mindo

Take an early bus from Quito to Mindo, where you can visit a butterfly farm and hummingbird garden, or go hiking, birding, or biking in the cloud forest. Head back to Quito and continue to Latacunga.

Option 2: Otavalo

Take an early bus from Quito to Otavalo and explore the surrounding countryside or visit the Kichwa village of Peguche. If it’s a Saturday, don’t miss the textile market. Head back to Quito and continue to Latacunga.

Days 6-9

Central Sierra

Explore the historical center of Latacunga or head to the Brazales neighborhood to see the traditional barley toasting furnaces. From Latacunga, take a day trip to Cotopaxi National Park and another to the volcanic crater lake Quilotoa and the nearby village of Tigua, famous for traditional paintings of Andean scenes.

Kichwa women in the central Sierra

Travel from Latacunga to Baños and get active (hiking, rafting, climbing, or bridge jumping) or take it easy at the thermal baths, followed by a massage. Rent a mountain bike and enjoy the Ruta de las Cascadas, a downhill bike ride past a series of spectacular waterfalls.

Days 10-13

Option 1: Coca

For a rainforest immersion, travel from Baños to Quito, then on to Coca by air or overnight bus.

From Coca, either visit a jungle lodge in the Yasuní National Park for a three-day/two-night package, or take a three-day/two-night combined tour to Yasuní and Limoncocha (both options should be reserved in advance).

Arrive back in Coca and return to Quito by air or bus.

Option 2: Santa Elena

Take a one-day “rainforest lite” tour from Baños to Puyo before heading to the coast on the overnight bus to Montañita.

On the coast, you can take surf lessons in Montañita or Olón, swim in the horseshoe bay of Ayangue, take a tour to Isla de la Plata for wildlife viewing, visit waterfalls in Dos Mangas, or simply relax on the sand. Pick your favorite activities before returning to Quito by overnight bus from Montañita or plane from Guayaquil.

Day 14

Get your last glimpses of Quito and buy some souvenirs before heading home.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Explore Indigenous Cultures

Throughout Ecuador, direct descendants of pre-Inca civilizations still maintain their traditional ways of life, including ancestral rituals, language, agriculture, handicrafts, and medicines. Visiting Indigenous communities will not only enrich your visit to Ecuador, but also provide the residents with a sustainable source of income and help preserve their cultural heritage.

• In the northern Sierra, villages near Otavalo offer weaving demonstrations, Andean cooking classes, and energy-cleansing rituals. This is perhaps the best region to participate in the celebrations of Inti Raymi and Pawkar Raymi.

• Near Ibarra, a community ecotourism project in San Clemente shares the Caranqui way of life and Andean cosmovision, including a path of medicinal plants. The picturesque Caranqui village of Zuleta has a community tourism project focused on traditional embroidery.

• In the central Sierra, there are several Panzaleo villages near Quilotoa, such as Saquisilí, known for its Indigenous market; Tigua, where artists paint Andean scenes on sheepskin; and Pujilí, famous for its traditional Corpus Christi celebrations.

• Near Baños, the Salasacas still weave in the ancestral way, using sheep wool and plant dyes. Women can be seen spinning yarn as they walk.

• On the flanks of Chimborazo, Puruhá guides take visitors to a sacred cave where their ancestors performed rituals asking the volcano for blessings. Nearby, Pucará Tambo, Waman Way, and La Moya are all excellent Puruhá community tourism projects.

• In the southern Sierra, Cuenca provides easy access to the Cañari community tourism projects at Jima and Kushi Waira. The Cañari are famous for their fierce resistance to the Inca invasion.

• Between Cuenca and Loja, five Saraguro villages have formed a community tourism network, where visitors can participate in handicrafts workshops, traditional agriculture, ancestral medicines, music, and dance. The Saraguros are direct descendants of the Incas.

• In the northern Amazon region, the Siekopai and A’i Kofán people are known for their skilled shamans and can be visited from Lago Agrio or Shushufindi.

• There are several lodges run by Amazonian Kichwa communities in Yasuní National Park. Other Kichwa community tourism projects include Kichwa Lodge in Cuyabeno, Sinchi Warmi near Misahuallí, and Sarayaku in Pastaza.

• The Shuar, famous for making tsantsas (shrunken heads), can be visited from the southern Amazonian town of Macas.

• The Tsáchila community of Chigüilpe near Santo Domingo holds healing ceremonies in a subterranean shamanic chamber. To represent the knowledge of their shamans, the men wear a mushily, a cotton doughnut perched on top of their head.

• In coastal Manabí, the ancestral community of Agua Blanca has a lake of therapeutic water and an archaeological museum with U-shaped stone chairs made by their forebears, the Manteños.

14 DAYS OF Ecoadventures

This two-week itinerary includes some of the country’s best examples of eco- and community-led tourism in the cloud forest, rainforest, and Sierra. You’ll see a side of Ecuador rarely seen by visitors, while directly supporting environmental conservation and the preservation of Indigenous cultures.

Day 1

Arrive in Quito and spend the day exploring the churches, plazas, and museums of the historical district, before dining at Tandana, a nonprofit ecological restaurant with wonderful views.

Days 2-3

Option 1: Maquipucuna Reserve & Ecolodge

From Quito, head north to the Maquipucuna Reserve & Ecolodge, the best place in the world to see spectacled bears.

Option 2: Yunguilla

From Quito, head northwest to the cloud forest reserve and community ecotourism project at Yunguilla. Hike ancestral paths or visit the community’s artisanal organic cheese and jam factories.

Days 4-6

Intag

Return to Quito and travel to Intag, where the rugged cloud-forested slopes and crystalline streams host some of the highest biodiversity on the planet. Every visit helps the local people in their struggle against mega-mining.

Hike in the cloud forest at the Bosque Protector El Placer-La Florida, known for its orchids, hummingbirds, and the Andean cock-of-the-rock; or nearby Junín, where a community ecotourism project offers horseback riding and a guided hike to a waterfall.

Visit one of the projects that provide Intag residents with sustainable sources of income, including organic coffee grown in the shade of native trees, artisanal natural toiletry products, and handicrafts made from woven sisal.

Days 7-8

San Clemente

Travel from Intag to San Clemente, a small village just outside Ibarra, where the Vivencia Intercultural Pukyu Pamba community ecotourism project shares the Indigenous Kichwa Caranqui way of life. Hike the path of medicinal plants before helping to harvest and cook a traditional Andean meal straight from the organic gardens.

Days 9-12

From San Clemente, head back to Quito and travel to either Lago Agrio, Shushufindi, or Puyo.

Option 1: Lago Agrio or Shushufindi to Siekoya Remolino

From Quito, travel to Lago Agrio or Shushufindi by bus, then on to Siekoya Remolino, a Siekopai community with an excellent ecotourism project. Spend the next days in the rainforest, hiking, birding, learning about ancestral medicines, and sharing community life.

Option 2: Puyo to Sarayaku

From Quito, take the bus to Puyo and stay overnight at Los Yapas Holistic Center, a permaculture project and eco-lodge.

The following day, travel by canoe or plane to Sarayaku, a Kichwa community known for their defense of the Amazon and Indigenous rights (tour should be booked well in advance). Spend the next days in the rainforest, sharing community life.

Day 13

Return to Quito via Lago Agrio, Shushufindi, or Puyo.

Day 14

Head to the Mindalae Ethnic Museum to learn about Ecuador’s Indigenous cultures and pick up some souvenirs at the attached fair-trade store.

Adrenaline Rush

There are plenty of thrills to be had in a country that boasts such dramatically changing terrain. Whether you want to zoom downhill on a bike, raft through river rapids, or scale a peak, you’ll find what you’re looking for in Ecuador.

QUITO

• Quito tour operators offer rafting in the Toachi and Blanco Rivers, which provide some of the longest navigable sections of white water in Ecuador.

• The TelefériQo cable car ascends the slope of the Pichincha volcano, from where it’s possible to descend on two wheels or hike to the Rucu Pichincha peak. Guagua Pichincha is a good training peak for mountaineers looking to acclimatize and get into shape.

• In Mindo, adventure-seekers will enjoy zip-lining through the forest canopy, tubing down pristine rivers, canyoneering, or exploring the area on two wheels.

NORTHERN SIERRA

• The countryside around Otavalo offers wonderful hiking, canyoneering, biking, and horseback riding, including spectacular descents into the Intag Valley.

• For mountaineering, the “starter peak” Fuya Fuya is a popular acclimatization hike. Tour operators in Otavalo offer climbs of the Cotacachi and Cayambe volcanoes.

• The volcanoes Imbabura and Cubilche can both be climbed as day trips from Esperanza near Ibarra. Tandem paragliding rides and courses are available on the slopes of Volcán Imbabura.

CENTRAL SIERRA

• The two big peaks for mountaineering are Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Rumiñahui and Iliniza Sur are less challenging.

• Spectacular hiking, horseback riding, and biking are available around the volcanic crater lake Quilotoa, which can also be explored by kayak.

• Baños is Ecuador’s adventure sports capital, with a vast range of activities including hiking, biking, horseback riding, rafting, kayaking, rock climbing, canyoneering, zip-lining, bridge jumping, and paragliding. A highlight is the Ruta de las Cascadas, a downhill bike ride past a series of waterfalls.

• Riobamba is a hub for mountaineers, trekkers, and mountain bikers. Biking excursions include a thrilling descent of Chimborazo and longer tours to the Lagunas de Ozogoche and El Altar.

SOUTHERN SIERRA

• The stunning scenery around Vilcabamba offers wonderful hiking, biking, and horseback riding. Downhill bike tours are available in Podocarpus National Park.

THE ORIENTE AND THE AMAZON BASIN

• Tena has developed into Ecuador’s water-sports capital, and there is excellent white-water rafting and kayaking nearby, along with canyoneering and tubing.

• In the southern Amazon, there is rafting and kayaking near Macas. Rafting, canyoneering, tubing, caving, and biking are available near Limón.

• There is excellent rafting and kayaking near Baeza on the Río Quijos and other local rivers. Also near Baeza is Peña Pivico, a 75-m (245-ft) natural rock wall with 88 rock-climbing routes.

NORTH AND CENTRAL COASTS AND LOWLANDS

• Near Manta, Santa Marianita is a kitesurfers’ mecca, and nearby Crucita is the place for paragliding. Just outside the village of Libertador Bolívar in Santa Elena province, Playa Bruja also has excellent paragliding.

• Outside the Galápagos, the best scuba diving can be found at Isla de la Plata off the coast of Manabí, known for its population of giant manta rays.

THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS

• The Galápagos Islands rank among the world’s best diving and snorkeling destinations. Santa Cruz has the most dive sites, while San Cristóbal has relatively fewer. Isabela has Isla Tortuga and the more advanced sites La Viuda and Cuatro Hermanos.

• The center of surfing in the archipelago is San Cristóbal, which has a few good sites within easy access of Baquerizo Moreno. Santa Cruz and Isabela have popular surf sites, too.

Surf’s Up!

Ecuador is a warm-water paradise for surfers of all levels. Peak season is from December to May, though there are rideable waves year-round. There is a wide variety of breaks, some of them uncrowded and a few world class.

• Montañita is Ecuador’s main surf destination. The world-class right-hand point break at the Point (La Punta) is for advanced surfers only, with waves up to 3 m (10 ft), but the long beach break is suitable for all levels. Classes and board rental are readily available.

• The beaches north of Montañita (Olón, Curia, San José, and Ayampe) have long, uncrowded beach breaks for all levels of surfer. Olón is perhaps the best place in the country to learn.

• Farther north, San Lorenzo is another beach break with some of the country’s biggest waves.

• Often considered Ecuador’s second surf destination after Montañita, Canoa has a long, quality beach break suitable for all levels, with board rental and classes available.

• In Esmeraldas province on the northern coast, Mompiche is one of Ecuador’s best waves: a world-class, epically long left point break that can be flat out of season. Board rental and classes are available.

• South of Montañita, there are several breaks around Salinas, mostly for advanced surfers, such as La Chocolatera and Lobería. Board rental and classes are available in Salinas.

• Just 90 minutes from Guayaquil, Playas has a series of beach breaks for surfers of all levels. It’s not the most picturesque of destinations, but there are often waves and sun in low season, when both are lacking in the Montañita area. Nearby, the small village of Engabao has a consistent right-hand point break and adjoining beach break.

• Surfing on the Galápagos Islands is focused on the island of San Cristóbal, which has world-class, fickle waves and uncrowded lineups for advanced surfers only. Reef breaks are sharp, rocky, and shallow, with colder water than on the mainland. Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz is the only Galápagos beach break suitable for learning.

Beach and Mountain Getaway

Conveniently located between the coast and the Andean foothills, the city of Guayaquil is a jumping-off point for exploring Southern Ecuador. Fly into its efficient international airport for your two-week getaway. Marvel at Ecuador’s mind-blowing diversity with this itinerary, which takes in the best of the coast, the colonial delights of Cuenca, the idyllic town of Vilcabamba, and the highlights of El Oro province, including a petrified forest and a natural rock fortress.

Days 1-2

Arrive in Guayaquil and take the three-hour trip to the coast: Montañita or Olón for surfing, or Ayangue for calmer seas. Relax with a cocktail in a hammock or on the beach.

Day 3

Head to Isla de la Plata to see blue-footed boobies and humpback whales (June-Oct.), or explore the coast’s lush green interior with a hike or horseback ride in the tropical forest near Dos Mangas.

Days 4-5

Travel by bus from Montañita to the charming city of Cuenca. Wander the colonial streets and elegant plazas of Cuenca’s historical district, gazing up at spires, cupolas, and geranium-covered wrought iron balconies.

Day 6

Take a day trip from Cuenca to the pristine windswept páramo of El Cajas National Park, or the country’s most important Inca ruins at Ingapirca.

Day 7

Spend the morning in Cuenca, taking in a couple of museums. Take a shuttle to Vilcabamba in the afternoon and arrive in time for dinner.

Days 8-9

Spend the days hiking, biking, or horseback riding in Vilcabamba, followed by a massage.

Day 10

From Vilcabamba, catch an early bus to Loja and take a day trip to Bosque Petrificado de Puyango, the largest petrified forest in South America.

Day 11

From Loja, head to the charming mountain town of Zaruma and spend the afternoon enjoying the beautiful scenery, wooden architecture, and great coffee.

the town of Zaruma

Days 12-13

Stay and explore Zaruma, or head to the natural rock fortress at Cerro de Arcos with its labyrinth of caves and spend the night in the refuge there.

Day 14

Travel back to Guayaquil from Zaruma.

With More Time

Guayaquil provides tourists with a convenient departure point for the Galápagos Islands. Via land tour or cruise, admire nature’s fragile beauty and diverse wildlife in the volcanic landscapes of this fascinating archipelago.