YELLOWSTONE & GRAND TETON

HIKING CAMPING WILDLIFE

BECKY LOMAX

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Contents

Welcome to Yellowstone & Grand Teton

North Yellowstone

Old Faithful and West Yellowstone

Canyon and Lake Country

North Grand Teton

South Grand Teton

Jackson Hole and Teton Valley

Gateways

Background

Essentials

Resources

Index

List of Maps

Photo Credits

Acknowledgments

Copyright

Sapphire Pool in Biscuit Basin

WELCOME TO Yellowstone & Grand Teton

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

WHAT’S NEW

AVOID THE CROWDS

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR…

YELLOWSTONE IN-PARK LODGING

NEED TO KNOW

GRAND TETON IN-PARK LODGING

BEST OF Yellowstone & Grand Teton

YELLOWSTONE IN ONE DAY

WHERE TO SEE WILDLIFE

Best Hikes

GRAND TETON IN ONE DAY

WINTER FUN

Volcanic Hot Spots

CELEBRATE INDIGENOUS CULTURES

BE A RESPONSIBLE PARK TRAVELER

Welcome to Yellowstone and Grand Teton. Here, earth’s tremendous forces have made a volatile landscape shaped by fire and ice. The parks bear the marks of ancient seas, volcanic heat, tectonic upthrusting, and ice scouring. Even today, they shake and roar.

In Yellowstone National Park, rumblings of a supervolcano boil to the surface—spewing, spitting, oozing, and bubbling. Steam rolls from vividly colored pools, muddy cauldrons burp smelly gases, and blasts of hot water shoot high into the air. It’s no wonder that the Crow have long called this cantankerous landscape Land of Steam.

In Grand Teton National Park, toothy spires claw the sky in one of the newest mountain ranges in the Rockies. Glaciers have chewed the terrain, leaving lakes, bowls, and canyons to explore. Towering thousands of feet high to culminate in the Grand Teton, the mountains dwarf all that roams across the floor of Jackson Hole.

The presence of humans in the parks is almost an afterthought to the eons of geology. Yet many Indigenous people found hospitable summer environments here as early as 11,000 years ago. Wild trout populated rushing streams, and herds of bighorn sheep, elk, and bison provided rich hunting opportunities.

Even after Yellowstone became a national park in 1872, these herds attracted visitors for wildlife-watching. Pronghorns, wolves, and grizzly bears added to the thrill. And still today, elk cross mountain ranges to reach their seasonal habitats every spring and fall in one of the biggest migrations in North America.

Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks are not just unique landscapes—they are living, breathing wonders. They should not only be enjoyed; they should be treasured.

bison in Lamar Valley

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

1 Watching wildlife in Yellowstone’s Lamar Valley, Hayden Valley, or Jackson Hole’s National Elk Refuge.

2 Marveling at Grand Prismatic Spring, the largest and most colorful hot spring in Yellowstone.

3 Admiring Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and feeling the power of the water plunging over the Upper and Lower Falls.

4 Setting your watch by Old Faithful, Yellowstone’s most reliable geyser.

5 Experiencing the majesty of the Tetons by backpacking the Teton Crest Trail (pictured) or climbing the Grand Teton.

6 Exploring the winter landscape by snowcoach to Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone or Old Faithful.

7 Doing the Jenny Lake triad: learning at interpretive lake overlooks, cruising the water via shuttle boat, and hiking to Hidden Falls and Lower Inspiration Point.

8 Paddling below the Tetons in the shelter of Colter Bay on Jackson Lake or on Jenny Lake (pictured).

9 Bicycling the Multi-Use Pathway to see the Tetons up close and get a glimpse of Teton Glacier.

10 Strolling the Mammoth Hot Springs boardwalks amid travertine terraces as sulfur fills the air.

Planning Your Trip

WHERE TO GO

North Yellowstone

From the North Entrance near Gardiner to the Northeast Entrance at Silver Gate and Cooke City, a two-lane park road snakes east across North Yellowstone. Anchored in the west by Mammoth Hot Springs, the road follows sagebrush plateaus to Tower-Roosevelt, crosses the Yellowstone River, goes through wildlife-rich Lamar Valley, and cuts into the Absaroka Mountains. This road and Mammoth Campground are open year-round, providing winter access.

Old Faithful and West Yellowstone

The town of West Yellowstone hosts the busiest park entrance and the most services. From the West Entrance, the road follows the Madison River to Madison Campground, where it splits to go north to Norris or south to Old Faithful. Volcanic features include Fountain Paint Pot, Grand Prismatic Spring, and the famous Old Faithful Geyser. The Old Faithful area is home to three park lodges, including the architecturally rustic Old Faithful Inn.

Canyon and Lake Country

Canyon Village is the best base for visiting Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, where prominent points and rim hikes overlook two plunging waterfalls on the Yellowstone River. Going south, the road follows the river upstream through the prime wildlife habitat of Hayden Valley before reaching Yellowstone Lake. Miles of shoreline host marinas, campgrounds, and lodging at Fishing Bridge, Lake Village, Bridge Bay, and Grant Village. Park entrances include the East Entrance Road from Cody and the South Entrance Road from Grand Teton National Park.

Teton Mountains

What’s New

• June 2022 brought catastrophic floods to Northern Yellowstone, damaging roads, campgrounds, and infrastructure. The Old Gardiner Road, now paved, serves as the North Entrance Road. Other repairs include the Northeast Entrance Road and several campgrounds, but some reconstruction still lingered into 2024.

• Campers can reserve campsites in advance at nine campgrounds in Yellowstone and seven campgrounds in Grand Teton.

• Backpackers and boaters can reserve wilderness permits in advance for both parks online (www.recreation.gov). Fee structures have also changed.

North Grand Teton

From the Moran Entrance, rugged Mount Moran greets visitors entering Grand Teton National Park from the east, while the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway provides the northern park entrance from Yellowstone National Park. Jackson Lake’s eastern shore sports lodges, hiking, horseback riding, marinas, and campgrounds at Signal Mountain, Colter Bay, and Jackson Lake Lodge. With limited dining spots, you may want to bring snacks and picnic supplies from Jackson.

South Grand Teton

The Moran, Moose, and Granite Canyon entrances access a loop formed between US 26/89/191 (year-round) and Teton Park Road (May-Oct.). Attractions include the Snake River, Mormon Row, Jenny Lake, and the Grand Teton. Trails such as Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point climb into canyons, while the rugged Teton Crest Trail travels through thin air along mountain spines. With limited food options, consider bringing snacks and picnic lunches from Jackson.

Jackson Hole and Teton Valley

Jackson Hole is a year-round recreation destination. The town of Jackson holds famous Western saloons like the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, the nearby National Elk Refuge for wildlife-watching, and the new Snow King Observatory and Planetarium for sky viewing. Snow season brings skiers to Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, while summer visitors ride the Aerial Tram to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain.

West of the Tetons in Idaho, Teton Valley is dotted with tiny towns like Victor and Driggs. Above, Grand Targhee Resort balances a summer mountain bike park with skiing in winter.

Gateways

Big Sky, Montana, is the closest gateway to Yellowstone, with access to the park’s North and West Entrances. Red Lodge, Montana, serves as the eastern springboard for the scenic Beartooth Highway to Yellowstone’s Northeast Entrance. Cody, Wyoming, offers a Wild West base of operations for Yellowstone’s East Entrance. In Wyoming’s Wind River Valley, Dubois is a stop on the way to Yellowstone’s South Entrance and Grand Teton’s Moran Entrance.

Avoid the Crowds

More than four million visitors enter Yellowstone annually, and Grand Teton sees only slightly fewer. Most come in summer, when huge parking lots fill to maximum capacity. Here are some tips to beat the crowds.

• Avoid July, which has the heaviest visitation.

• Visit in less-crowded months: June or September when kids are back in school, May to watch newborn bison (called “red dogs”) and elk calves, or October for fall colors and active bears in hyperphagia.

• Go in winter. Enjoy the beauty of the icy landscape and prolific steam in the geyser basins.

• Avoid popular spots midday (10am-4pm), when crowds swell and parking lots are congested. Hike a trail instead.

• See popular sights in early morning. Visit Old Faithful at sunrise (5am-6:30am in summer) to score front-row seats in time for an eruption. Hit Midway, Lower Geyser Basin, or Jenny Lake before 9am.

• Tour in the evening. After an early dinner, explore the geyser basins until sunset (8pm-9:30pm in summer). Walk the Upper Geyser Basin (Old Faithful, Black Sands, and Biscuit) or Taggart Lake after 5pm.

• Go wildlife-watching in the morning and evening. Though most visitors look for animals as they tour midday, wildlife is more active around dawn and dusk.

• Park early. Parking lots at popular trailheads fill up well before 9am. Plan to be at your trailhead by 8am or earlier.

• Stop at picnic areas for restroom breaks, as the geyser basin and canyon restrooms usually have lengthy lines.

• Make advance reservations where possible: 12-18 months for lodges and dining, 6-12 months for campgrounds.

WHEN TO GO

High Season

Summer (June-Aug.)

Summer sees the most visitors, with July and August luring the biggest crowds. All park lodges, campgrounds, visitor centers, and roads are open. Come in June for potential wildlife-watching: spot bighorn sheep ewes with newborn lambs and grizzly bears foraging along Yellowstone Lake. June through early July buzzes with mosquitoes, while July through early August brings on rampant wildflowers. August also yields the best high-elevation hiking in the Tetons, and warmer days produce less steam for better hot spring viewing in Yellowstone.

alpine wildflowers in the Teton Mountains

Winter (Dec.-Mar.)

In winter, deep snows blanket the parks. Alpine skiers gravitate to Jackson Hole while cross-country skiers tackle groomed and untracked trails in both parks. Most park roads are closed (Nov.-late Apr.), with the exception of roads between Yellowstone’s North and Northeast Entrances and between Yellowstone’s South Entrance and Jackson. Touring in Yellowstone is via guided snowcoach or snowmobile, while lodging is limited to Mammoth Hot Springs, Old Faithful, and towns surrounding both parks.

Off-season

Spring (Mar.-May)

Mid-April offers car-free park roads to cyclists before roads open to vehicles in late April or May. As the snow melts, fields of yellow glacier lilies emerge. By May, most park roads start to open and visitor services return. Days may be rainy and cold, and some trails remain snow-covered into June. Come in May to spot newborn bison or elk and for cooler days that produce more steam in the geyser basins.

Fall (Sept.-Nov.)

Bug-free days yield pleasant hiking with thinner crowds and cooler temperatures that make the landscape look on fire with copious steam. Come in late September for the elk rut, when bulls gather harems to prove their dominance and their bugles break the nighttime quiet. Sporadic snowstorms can close park roads, and some services close.

If You’re Looking For…

• Backpacking: Plan a route along the Teton Crest Trail in Grand Teton.

• Bicycling: Bike to Fairy Falls and Lone Star Geyser in Yellowstone. In Grand Teton, cycle the Multi-Use Pathway.

• Boating: Boat around Frank Island in Yellowstone Lake or around Elk Island in Jackson Lake.

• Fishing: Cast for wild trout in Yellowstone Lake or Jackson Lake. For the thrill of river fishing, aim for Slough Creek, Lamar River, Madison River, or Snake River.

• Hiking: Walk to the summit of Mount Washburn in Yellowstone, or hike Paintbrush Canyon in Grand Teton.

• Kayaking and canoeing: Paddle across Lewis Lake and up the thoroughfare to Shoshone Lake in Yellowstone. In Grand Teton, paddle String Lake or around the islands in Colter Bay on Jackson Lake.

• Rafting: Raft the Yellowstone and Gallatin Rivers outside the park. In Grand Teton, float the Snake River.

• Wildflowers: Drive Sylvan Pass in Yellowstone for lupine-lined roads, hike Grand View Point in Grand Teton for pink sticky geraniums, or backpack Alaska Basin for prolific wildflower displays in August, including white columbine.

• Skiing and snowboarding: Go cross-country skiing on the groomed Teton Park Road or the roads in Yellowstone. Hit the slopes at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Grand Targhee Resort, or Big Sky Resort.

Yellowstone In-Park Lodging

NEED TO KNOW

Park Fees and Passes

Each park requires an entrance fee ($35 vehicle, $30 motorcycles, $20 pedestrians, cyclists, and skiers), which is good for 7 days. Other fee options include the Annual Park Pass ($70) for Yellowstone or Grand Teton, and the Federal Lands and Recreation Pass ($80), which is good for all national parks and federal fee areas. US fourth graders, people with disabilities, veterans, and military personnel can get free federal lands passes, and seniors can buy lifetime passes ($80). You can also buy entrance passes in advance online (www.recreation.gov).

NPS App

Because many places in Yellowstone and Grand Teton have dead zones with no cell service, download the NPS app at home. Then, go to each of the pages for Yellowstone and Grand Teton and save them both for offline use. You will also want to download any maps, apps, music, or anything else you might want for your trip before you leave home.

Entrance Stations

Entrance stations in both parks accept cash payments and credit or debit cards. Passes for both parks may be purchased in advance online. Six days annually offer free entrance: Martin Luther King, Jr. Birthday (mid-Jan.), first day of National Park Week (late Apr.), Juneteenth (June 19), Great America Outdoors Act Day (early Aug.), National Public Lands Day (late Sept.), and Veterans Day (Nov. 11).

Yellowstone

Yellowstone has five entrance stations:

• North Entrance (US 89, near Gardiner) is open year-round and provides the closest access to Mammoth Hot Springs.

• Northeast Entrance (US 212, west of Silver Gate) provides access to Tower-Roosevelt and Lamar Valley. While the Northeast Entrance Road stays open year-round, roads east of Cooke City close late October through late May, precluding access to the Northeast Entrance.

Grand Teton In-Park Lodging

• West Entrance (US 20, West Yellowstone), the busiest entrance in the park, is open from mid-April to October 31 and admits only snowcoaches, snowmobiles, and skiers in winter.

• East Entrance (US 20), located between Fishing Bridge and Cody, is open from mid-May to October 31.

• South Entrance (US 89/191/287), on the border between Yellowstone and Grand Teton, is open from mid-May to October 31.

Grand Teton

Grand Teton has three entrance stations:

• Moran Entrance (US 26/89/191 and US 26/287) is open year-round and offers access from the east and Jackson.

• Granite Canyon Entrance is on the south end of the Moose-Wilson Road between Teton Village and Moose. It is open year-round but the road is only open to Granite Canyon Trailhead in winter.

• Moose Entrance (Teton Park Rd.) provides access to the southern region of the park and is open year-round.

Visitor Centers

Yellowstone

Out of the eight visitor centers, the largest ones are Old Faithful Visitor Education Center (307/344-2751, Old Faithful Village) and Canyon Visitor Education Center (307/344-2550, Canyon Village).

Grand Teton

The main visitor center is the Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center (307/739-3399) at Moose.

Reservations

To guarantee lodging, camping, tours, or dinner reservations for anytime in summer, make reservations at least 12-18 months in advance. Some camping reservations can be made 6 months in advance. For winter travel plans, make reservations 9-12 months in advance.

Yellowstone

Xanterra (307/344-7311, www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com) operates two winter lodges (Mammoth and Old Faithful Snow Lodge) and nine summer lodges (Canyon Lodge, Grant Village, Lake Lodge, Lake Yellowstone Hotel, Mammoth Springs Hotel, Old Faithful Inn, Old Faithful Lodge, Snow Lodge, and Roosevelt Lodge).

Grand Teton

Grand Teton Lodging Company (307/543-3011, www.gtlc.com) operates four summer lodges (Jackson Lake Lodge, Colter Bay Village, Jenny Lake Lodge, and Headwaters Lodge).

Jackson Hole

For reservations at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, contact Jackson Hole Central Reservations (888/838-6606, www.jacksonhole.com). For Jackson lodging, check options online via Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce (www.jacksonholechamber.com).

Campgrounds

Yellowstone

Many of the 12 campgrounds in Yellowstone accept reservations.

Make reservations 12-18 months in advance for the five largest campgrounds (307/344-7311, www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com): Madison (278 sites), Canyon (270 sites), Fishing Bridge RV Park (340 sites), Bridge Bay (432 sites), and Grant Village (430 sites).

Make reservations 6 months in advance for all other campgrounds (877/833-6777, www.recreation.gov): Mammoth (85 sites), Slough Creek (23 sites), Pebble Creek (when rebuilt), Indian Creek (70 sites), Norris (111 sites), Tower Fall (31 sites), and Lewis Lake (84 sites).

sunset at Mammoth Campground

Wilderness camping permits ($5 pp per night) are required for backpackers and boaters. Reserve in advance online (www.recreation.gov, $10) during the lottery season (Mar.-Apr.) or general reservation season (late Apr.-3 days in advance). First-come, first-served permits are available 48 hours in advance.

Grand Teton

Grand Teton’s developed campgrounds (877/833-6777, www.recreation.gov) are all reservable 6 months in advance: Headwaters (131 sites), Lizard Creek (60 sites), Signal Mountain (81 sites), Jenny Lake (49 sites), Gros Ventre (279 sites), Colter Bay Campground (350 sites), and Colter Bay RV Park (112 sites).

Wilderness camping permits ($7 pp per night plus $20 per trip) are required for backpackers and boaters. Reserve in advance (www.recreation.gov, starting early Jan.). First-come, first-served permits are available 24 hours in advance.

Getting Around

In summer, you’ll need a vehicle to get around. There are no park shuttles. In winter, visitors can ride snowcoaches or snowmobiles from West Yellowstone, Mammoth, or Flagg Ranch into Yellowstone National Park.

BEST OF Yellowstone & Grand Teton

Expect to see spouting geysers and toothy mountains on your romp through Yellowstone and Grand Teton. Bring the binoculars for watching the abundant wildlife.

Yellowstone

Day 1

Enter Yellowstone through the historic Roosevelt Arch at Gardiner, Montana, and drive to Albright Visitor Center to get oriented. Tour the boardwalks around the travertine terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs. Then, drive Grand Loop Road heading east. At Tower Junction, take the Northeast Entrance Road for a wildlife safari in Lamar Valley. Look for bison, pronghorn, wolves, and bears. Return to Grand Loop Road to ascend over Dunraven Pass and drop to Canyon Village for two nights at Canyon Lodge or Canyon Campground.

boardwalk through Mammoth Hot Springs

Day 2

For thundering waterfalls and a deep, golden canyon, aim for Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. From South Rim Drive, stroll the paved path to the Upper Falls Viewpoint. Then drive to the road’s end or hike the rim trail to Artist Point for the classic view of the larger Lower Falls. Afterward, motor south through Hayden Valley while watching for bison, elk, eagles, wolves, and trumpeter swans. Follow the sulfur smells further south to reach the boardwalks of Mud Volcano. Stop in Fishing Bridge for lunch before stretching your legs on the Storm Point Trail on Yellowstone Lake. On the East Entrance Road, stop at Lake Butte to survey the immense lake before ascending the scenic route to Sylvan Pass. Retrace your route back to your accommodation, adding in viewpoints on North Rim Drive if you have time and energy.

Day 3

Drive Norris-Canyon Road to Norris Geyser Basin, touring the boardwalk through colorful Porcelain Basin. Then drive south on Grand Loop Road to descend into the Yellowstone Caldera. Stop to see Gibbon Falls and visit Madison Picnic Area to look for wildlife in nearby meadows. Continue southeast on Grand Loop Road to climb to Fountain Paint Pots to learn about the four types of geothermals. From Fairy Falls Trailhead, walk to the overlook to see Grand Prismatic Spring. Spend the late afternoon exploring the Upper Geyser Basin: peering into the blue-green hues of Morning Glory Pool, watching Old Faithful Geyser erupt, and touring the visitor center. Spend the night at Old Faithful Inn or, if camping, return to Madison Campground.

Yellowstone in One Day

With 2.2 million acres (890,308 ha) and half of the world’s geothermal features on offer, how do you see Yellowstone with limited time? Get up early and focus your time on the southern Grand Loop Road.

MORNING

• Arrive at Norris Geyser Basin before 8:30am. Drop into Back Basin to see small geysers, smell fumaroles, and hear bubbling hot springs. Then tour Porcelain Basin to view the colors.

• Drive east to Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone to stop at the overlooks on North Rim Drive: Brink of the Lower Falls, Lookout Point, Grandview, and Inspiration Point. Then, drive west to Canyon Village to grab lunch at Canyon Lodge Eatery.

AFTERNOON

• Drive south through Hayden Valley, where crazy bison jams alternate with placid waterways containing trumpeter swans and moose.

• Continue south along Lake Yellowstone en route to West Thumb Geyser Basin. Tour the boardwalk along the lakefront.

• Then, head west over two mountain passes to Midway Geyser Basin to admire Grand Prismatic Spring, the park’s largest hot spring.

EVENING

• Retrace your route back to the Upper Geyser Basin. Dine at the historic Old Faithful Inn Dining Room.

• After dinner, enjoy a less-crowded stroll around Geyser Hill and watch Old Faithful Geyser. It might erupt twice before you retire for the night at Old Faithful Inn.

Day 4

From Old Faithful, cross two forested passes to the east before dropping to Lake Yellowstone. Head north to Bridge Bay for two activities: hiking to Natural Bridge and taking the boat tour out on the lake. At West Thumb Geyser Basin, tour the boardwalk loop along the lake with a backdrop of the Absaroka Mountains. Dine and overnight at Grant Village Lodge or Grant Village Campground. Attend an evening ranger program at the amphitheater.

Day 5

Before exiting Yellowstone via the South Entrance Road, admire Lewis Falls. Follow John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Parkway into Grand Teton National Park and stop at the large interpretive pullout at the head of Jackson Lake for your first view of the craggy Tetons. Then, head to Colter Bay to hike a loop trail to Heron Pond and Swan Lake. After hiking, reward yourself with lunch at the Ranch House. For the afternoon, rent a canoe or kayak to paddle around sheltered islands with spectacular mountain views. Campers will enjoy Colter Bay Campground for two nights, but for lodging continue south to Jackson Lake Lodge.

Heron Pond and the Tetons

Day 6

At Dornan’s Trading Post in Moose, pick up lunch supplies for your pack and rent bikes from Adventure Sports. Then, bicycle the Multi-Use Pathway across the Snake River to the Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center to learn about the park. Continue biking north to Jenny Lake. Walk the Discovery Trail loop and eat lunch on the beach. After bicycling back to Moose, head north on Teton Park Road and then to Jackson Lake Lodge for early dining on the back patio accompanied by Teton views.

Day 7

For your trip finale, drive Teton Park Road south, stopping at interpretive turnouts such as Mount Moran and Teton Glacier. With lunch in your pack, hike the loop to Bradley Lake and Taggart Lake and wade in the cold waters if you dare while staring at the Grand Teton. In evening, treat yourself to dinner in the Mural Room at Jackson Lake Lodge and watch the sun setting over the Tetons.

Where to See Wildlife

Grab the binoculars, spotting scope, and telephoto lens. Wildlife is rampant in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. For the safety of yourself and the animals, keep your distance: 100 yd/m from bears and wolves, 25 yd/m from other wildlife.

YELLOWSTONE

• Mammoth Hot Springs: Elk hang out on the village lawns.

• Swan Lake Flat: The high basin of Gardners Hole south of Mammoth is home to bears, birds, trumpeter swans, elk, bison, and wolves.

• Tower Fall: Bighorn sheep cluster in the cliffs for safety from predators.

• Lamar Valley: Driving into Lamar Valley catapults visitors back to the days when endless herds of bison roamed the West. Pronghorn feed nearby, and wolves cruise through looking for the old or infirm. Also, look for sandhill cranes and bighorn sheep.

• Absaroka Mountains: On the Northeast Entrance Road, use binoculars to spot bighorn sheep and mountain goats near cliffs.

• Madison River: In fall, watch bugling bull elk round up harems of cows in meadows while deer munch grass on the fringes.

• Hayden Valley: Spot bison, elk, and grizzly bears in meadows and trumpeter swans or moose on the Yellowstone River. Look for harlequin ducks in early summer at LeHardy’s Rapids.

• Fishing Bridge: In June and July, peer down from the historic bridge to see wild spawning cutthroat trout in the Yellowstone River, which sometimes attract bald eagles and grizzly bears.

• Pelican Creek: In spring, the creek plain becomes a prime bear foraging area. Look also for bald eagles and moose.

GRAND TETON

• Oxbow Bend: Below Jackson Lake Dam, the Snake River slows into habitat that attracts moose, river otters, muskrats, songbirds, American pelicans, and bald eagles.

• Teton Park Road: The sage meadows attract elk, pronghorn, and bison. Look for raptors overhead.

• Antelope Flats and Gros Ventre River Road: Look for bison, pronghorn, coyote, sage grouse, and raptors such as American kestrels and northern harriers.

• Paintbrush Canyon: Spot pikas and marmots in higher elevations scampering around the rocks.

• Moose-Wilson Road: The wetlands on the road are home to beavers and moose, while berry bushes and wild fruit trees attract grizzly bears.

JACKSON HOLE

• National Elk Refuge: Thousands of elk winter here before summering in the mountains. You might also see mountain lions, trumpeter swans, bighorn sheep, and raptors.

Best Hikes

Yellowstone National Park

Trout Lake

A short, steep 1.2-mi (1.9-km) round-trip trail leads to idyllic Trout Lake, rimmed with wildflower meadows and a shoreline loop in the Absaroka Mountains.

Bunsen Peak

Climb switchbacks 4.2 mi (6.8 km) round-trip up the rocky volcanic cone of Bunsen Peak, where the perch yields sweeping views of Swan Lake, Mammoth Hot Springs, and countless mountains including Sheridan Peak.

Fairy Falls and Grand Prismatic Overlook

Traipse 6.8 mi (11.1 km) round-trip to reach Fairy Falls, which fans out from a narrow slot into a pool. In winter it drapes with icicles. En route, add on a side loop to overlook radiant Grand Prismatic Spring.

South Rim Trail and Point Sublime

At Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, this 5.1-mi (8.2-km) round-trip trail takes in multiple canyon viewpoints, including the Upper Falls and Artist Point before touring the less-traveled route to Point Sublime.

Mount Washburn

A 6.4-mi (10.3-km) round-trip climb leads to the 10,243-ft (3,122-m) summit of Mount Washburn for 360-degree panoramic views. It’s a grunt, but the lookout provides huge rewards.

views of the Absaroka Mountains from Mount Washburn

Grand Teton National Park

Grand View Point

Take in this scenic viewpoint of the Teton Mountains from multiple trailheads. Shorter 3-mi (4.8-km) routes go from Jackson Lake Lodge while a 13.2-mi (21.2-km) loop includes Two Ocean and Emma Matilda Lakes.

Heron Pond and Swan Lake

The gentle 2.6-mi (4.2-km) loop goes to the sheltered Heron Pond, where you can see American pelicans, beavers, and moose before the trail sweeps by lily pad wetlands of Swan Lake.

Grand Teton in One Day

To avoid that “dash and see” rushed feeling, target a few activities that soak up the oh-so-grand Teton ramparts. Most people visiting the park for just one day stay in the town of Jackson. But you’ll make more of your limited time by staying in a park lodge.

MORNING

• To beat the crowds, get an early start on Teton Park Road, aiming directly for Jenny Lake. Walk from the interpretive plaza to the lake overlooks for views of the Teton Mountains before heading to the east boat dock. Hop the boat shuttle across the lake.

• From the west dock, ascend to see Hidden Falls frothing over a forest cliff. Climb further to Inspiration Point to peer down on Jenny Lake. Afterward, return to the west boat dock to shuttle back across the lake.

• Now you can make a leisurely drive north, stopping at interpretive pullouts before reaching Signal Mountain and ascending for the broad views.

AFTERNOON

• After descending Signal Mountain, enjoy Jackson Lake by lunching on the deck of Signal Mountain Lodge and then renting a kayak for a 1-hour paddle.

• Afterward, drive north and turn toward Moran. Stop en route at Oxbow Bend to scout for wildlife. Then, continue south onto the Outside Road, pulling in at Snake River Overlook for the view. Continue south and then turn east, aiming for Mormon Row and the famous Moulton Barn.

EVENING

• Check into Jackson Lake Lodge for the night and dine in the Mural Room, enjoying the historic wall murals plus the view of the Tetons out the windows.

• Before sunset, head to Oxbow Bend on the Snake River. Pull out the binoculars to spot wildlife: elk, birds, pelicans, and maybe a moose or bear. Then, enjoy the evening sky colors reflecting in the slow-moving river.

Paintbrush Canyon-Cascade Canyon Loop

This bucket list 19.2-mi (30.9-km) loop for hardcore hikers ascends Paintbrush Canyon to Holly Lake, which can be an out-and-back destination. The trail climbs over Paintbrush Divide before dropping to Lake Solitude, heading straight toward the Grand Teton, and plunging down Cascade Canyon.

Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes

A hefty dose of switchbacks climbs into a subalpine basin below Grand Teton. The 10.1-mi (16.3-km) round-trip hike yields rewards of dazzling Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes, both tucked in hanging valleys.

Bradley and Taggart Lakes Loop

This ultra-popular pair of low-elevation lakes have intimate views of the Tetons, including the Grand. The 5.9-mi (9.5 km) round-trip loop visits Bradley Lake and Taggart Lake, separated by a moraine.

Winter Fun

Most lodges and roads inside Yellowstone and Grand Teton close in winter, which means solitude is guaranteed for those who enter these winter wonderlands.

• Cross-country ski or snowshoe on groomed roads or ungroomed snow-buried trails in both parks.

• Wildlife-watching in both parks offers chances to see bison, elk, wolves, coyotes, bobcats, moose, and raptors.

• Heated snowcoaches depart from Mammoth, West Yellowstone, and Flagg Ranch to visit Old Faithful or Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

• Overnight at Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel or Old Faithful’s Snow Lodge.

• Stay in Yellowstone Expeditions’ yurt camp for cross-country ski or snowshoe tours.

• Snowmobile to Old Faithful or Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone on guided trips.

• Downhill ski or snowboard at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Snow King Mountain, Grand Targhee Resort, or Big Sky Resort.

• Go skate-skiing or classic cross-country skiing on groomed trails at Rendezvous Ski Trails (West Yellowstone), Lone Mountain Ranch (Big Sky), Grand Targhee Resort (Teton Valley), or Teton Pines Nordic Center (Jackson Hole).

• Hire a professional guide for backcountry skiing or ice climbing inside Grand Teton.

• Hop a sleigh ride at the National Elk Refuge.

• Watch elk and bighorn sheep in the National Elk Refuge in Jackson Hole.

Volcanic Hot Spots

Yellowstone is chock-full of volcanic wonders. These are the ones for the record books. Be safe by staying on boardwalks and trails; the fragile crusts below harbor scalding-hot water.

Caldera

Yellowstone’s caldera is one of the world’s largest. Stand near the rim at Lake Butte, Gibbon Falls, and Lewis Falls to grasp its immensity.

Hydrothermals

Norris Geyser Basin has the hottest water, measuring 459°F (237°C) at 1,087 ft (331 m) below the surface. At 115,000 years old, it is also the oldest and the most dynamic geothermal basin.

Geysers

Old Faithful acquired its name thanks to its regular eruptions, an average of one every 98 minutes as of 2019. Upper Geyser Basin, which houses Old Faithful, has 410 geysers, the most in the park.

In Norris Geyser Basin, Steamboat Geyser, the world’s tallest geyser, spouts up to 300-400 ft (91-122 m), but waffles between activity and long dormancy. Echinus Geyser is the largest known acidic geyser in the world, on par with vinegar.

Mud Pots

Most mud pots, such as Artists Paintpots or Mud Volcano, are acidic shades of gray, but iron oxides tint Fountain Paint Pot pink, beige, and even blue, making it noteworthy.

Fumaroles

Two steam vents are notable. In Norris Geyser Basin, Black Growler grumbles as it reaches 280°F (138°C), while Roaring Mountain is a mountainside collection of fumaroles.

Celebrate Indigenous Cultures

Archaeological evidence places Indigenous people in the Greater Yellowstone region going back more than 11,000 years. Today, 27 Indigenous tribes have roots in the area. You can learn about their history and culture in several ways:

• Visit the Yellowstone Tribal Heritage Center: Artisans share their cultural heritage through art, crafts, dancing, drumming, song, and storytelling.

• Admire Sheepeater Cliff: The name of this basalt cliff pays homage to the Tukudika, or Sheep Eaters, year-round Yellowstone inhabitants who followed migrations of bighorn sheep.

• See the treasures of Obsidian Cliff: Bits of obsidian or crystallized volcanic glass gathered here were used to make knives, arrowheads, and tools. It’s an archaeological site and National Historic Landmark.

• Drive the Nez Perce National Historic Trail: The Nimiipuu spent 2 weeks crossing Yellowstone in 1877 during their flight to escape the US Army, which was attempting to force them onto a reservation.

• Peer into the Dragon’s Mouth: Mud Volcano is home to the belching Dragon’s Mouth Spring, which was significant to the Kiowa and Crow peoples.

• See Indigenous artists at work at the Colter Bay Visitor Center: Each week, this visitor center in Grand Teton hosts a different Indigenous artist to demonstrate art forms like painting, beading, and weaving. Performance arts such as drumming and storytelling take place on Saturday evenings.

• Visit the Plains Indian Museum: In Cody, Wyoming, the Buffalo Bill Center of the West contains this museum that celebrates the arts, cultures, and history of many groups of the Plains Indians.

• Attend a powwow): Local Indigenous people celebrate their cultures with powwows that feature dancing in traditional regalia, drumming, and rodeos.

Hot Springs

In Midway Geyser Basin, Grand Prismatic Spring is the largest hot spring in the United States and the third largest in the world. That’s not its only claim to fame: It radiates stunning colors, from its blue center to orange and brown rays.

Travertine Terraces

Mammoth Hot Springs is different from many other hot springs. Its calcium carbonate waters have built the largest travertine terraces in Yellowstone.

Mammoth Hot Springs travertine terraces

Be a Responsible Park Traveler

BEFORE YOU GO:

• Adjust your schedule to visit crowded sites at less popular times or seasons. Design a backup plan.

• Make plans for your pets; they are not permitted on trails, beaches, or off leash in campgrounds, picnic areas, and parking lots.

• Make reservations in advance for all lodging and camping. Camping is allowed only in designated sites. Make a list of backup sites in perimeter towns or national forests.

• Arrange tours and guides with local, park-approved companies.

• Apply for backcountry permits in advance. Backcountry camping is not allowed outside of designated sites, and permits are required.

• Pack a refillable water bottle.

• Bring binoculars to watch wildlife while maintaining a safe distance for you and the animals.

• Pack patience in summer to deal with lines, traffic congestion, and crowds.

• Leave your drones at home; they are prohibited in the parks.

WHILE IN THE PARKS:

• Minimize driving by hiking, biking, paddling, and skiing to experience the parks.

• Turn off the car engine rather than idling when you stop to watch wildlife or take in sights.

• Use established paved or gravel pullouts for wildlife-watching and photography rather than pulling over onto meadow edges or stopping in the middle of the road. Park in parking lots rather than on roadsides.

• Maintain a distance of at least 100 yd/m away from bears and wolves and 25 yd/m from all other wildlife.

• Dispose of waste in designated trash bins and recycle in appropriate bins.

• Build fires only inside designated fire rings in campgrounds or picnic areas.

• Stay on boardwalks and trails in geyser basins to protect the fragile crusts and thermophiles growing there.

• Watch your footing on boardwalks, trails, and cliffs. Move your feet into a stable, safe position before taking photos or selfies.

• Buy locally made products.