Nova Scotia & Atlantic Canada

ANDREW HEMPSTEAD

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Contents

Welcome to Nova Scotia & Atlantic Canada

NOVA SCOTIA

Halifax

South Shore

Fundy Coast

Central Nova Scotia

Cape Breton Island

NEW BRUNSWICK

Saint John and the Fundy Coast

Saint John River Valley

Acadian Coast

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Charlottetown and Queens County

Prince County

Eastern Prince Edward Island

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

St. John’s and the Avalon Peninsula

Central and Western Newfoundland

Labrador

Background

Essentials

Resources

Index

List of Maps

Photo Credits

Copyright

Quidi Vidi, St. John’s, Newfoundland

WELCOME TO Nova Scotia & Atlantic Canada

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

IF YOU HAVE . . .

BEST OF Nova Scotia & Atlantic Canada

FRESH FROM THE SEA

TOP 10 CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS

Best of the Outdoors

A FAMILY AFFAIR

BEST SCENIC DRIVES

BEST WHALE-WATCHING

HIKING IN NOVA SCOTIA & ATLANTIC CANADA

Atlantic Canada, the sea-bound northeastern corner of North America, comprises four provinces—Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland and Labrador—that have their own personalities but are inextricably entwined in history, people, and place. Each province holds the promise of fabulous scenery and rich history.

The ocean is a defining feature; it permeates all aspects of life on the edge of the continent, as it has done for centuries. Kayaking to an uninhabited island for a picnic lunch and searching out the world’s rarest whales are just two possible watery adventures. Long stretches of sand are perfect for beach walking, and the warm waters of Northumberland Strait encourage summer swimming. The surrounding waters also offer a veritable smorgasbord of seafood.

Some of your most treasured memories will be of the people. For centuries, the folk of Atlantic Canada have gone down to the sea to ply their trade on the great waters. The hard seafaring life has given them what so much of the modern world has thoughtlessly let slip through its fingers: nearness to nature’s honest rhythms, replete with the old values of kindness, thrift, and rugged self-reliance. In a world crowded with too many people and too much development, Atlantic Canada remains a refuge of sorts, and its friendly people will make you feel welcome and comfortable.

Sure, you’ll remember the sight and sound of bagpipers marching across Halifax’s Citadel Hill, you’ll snap the requisite photo of the lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove, and you won’t want to miss walking along the beaches of Prince Edward Island National Park. But there are many unexpected pleasures here as well: personal experiences that come about through intangible ingredients beyond the scope of any guidebook. Here, you’ll find adventures of your own making.

Hopewell Rocks

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

1 Seeing icebergs up close and personal in northern Newfoundland.

2 Setting sail from Lunenburg aboard the Bluenose II, a replica of Canada’s most famous sailing ship.

3 Soaking in postcard-perfect views at Peggy’s Cove.

4 Driving the Cabot Trail along the coast of Cape Breton Island.

5 Savoring fresh seafood harvested from local waters, especially at the memorable FireWorks Feast.

6 Getting lost in time at the Colony of Avalon, an active archaeological dig of a 17th-century settlement.

7 Exploring the coastal trails and highlands at the magnificent Fundy National Park.

8 Relaxing on the red-sand beaches of Prince Edward Island National Park.

9 Hiking through the wonders of Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park.

10 Following in the footsteps of the Vikings at L’Anse aux Meadows.

Planning Your Trip

WHERE TO GO

Atlantic Canada is made up of four provinces, which makes dividing the region into manageable areas easy. But even among Canadians, there is sometimes confusion about the definition of “Atlantic Canada” versus “the Maritimes.” The latter comprises New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island, while Atlantic Canada comprises the Maritime provinces together with Newfoundland and Labrador.

Nova Scotia

Nova Scotia typifies Atlantic Canada, with a dramatic, 7,459-km-long (4,635-mi-long) coastline notched with innumerable coves and bays holding scores of picturesque fishing villages. It would be easy to spend an entire vacation exploring Nova Scotia, yet still leave feeling you hadn’t seen everything. The cosmopolitan streets of Halifax, the colorful port of Lunenburg, the historical ambience of Annapolis Royal, and the wilds of Cape Breton Island are just a taste of what you can expect in this diverse province.

New Brunswick

New Brunswick is the largest of the Maritime provinces, but is the least known to outsiders. Although the province is mostly forested, it is its coastline and fertile Saint John River Valley that attract the most attention. Here you’ll find the elegant resort town of St. Andrews, the phenomenal Fundy tides, and pristine beaches such as Parlee. These attractions, along with the three main cities—Fredericton, Saint John, and Moncton—and a distinct Acadian flavor to the north coast, create a destination with something for everyone.

Fredericton, New Brunswick

If You Have . . .

• ONE WEEK: Visit Halifax, spending your time along the waterfront, Citadel Hill, and Point Pleasant Park. From Halifax, drive around the South Shore to the Fundy Coast and up to Cape Breton Island.

• TWO WEEKS: Add New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island—St. Andrews, Fredericton, Charlottetown, and then some beach time in Cavendish.

• THREE WEEKS: Expand the two-week itinerary by catching a ferry to Newfoundland and traveling from St. John’s to the tip of the Northern Peninsula.

Prince Edward Island

Little PEI ranks as Canada’s smallest province, as well as its most densely populated, most cultivated, most ribboned with roads, and most bereft of original wilderness. PEI also has the country’s smallest provincial capital—Charlottetown, with a population of just 36,000. Tourism revolves around the beaches and historic charm of Cavendish, but the island’s low-key allure is found elsewhere, along rural roads that end at the ocean and drift through neat villages that have changed little over the last century.

Newfoundland and Labrador

Three times the size of the Maritimes put together, this province redefines the region as Atlantic Canada. It comprises the island of Newfoundland as well as Labrador on the mainland. The Maritimes share a kindred climate, history, and lineage, but Newfoundland is different. About half of the island is boreal forest, while much of the rest is rocky, barren, or boggy. The people, many of whom live in the capital, St. John’s, in some ways seem more akin to their Irish or English forebears than culturally blended or archetypically Canadian.

Newfoundland and Labrador ferry

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

When to Go

Summer revolves around outdoor activities such as hiking, biking, swimming, canoeing, and fishing. July and August are especially busy. This is the time of year when school is out and the parks come alive with campers, the lakes and streams with anglers, the beaches with swimmers and sunbathers, the woods with wildlife, and the roadsides with stalls selling fresh produce. Summer temperatures vary greatly through the region, but average daily highs are around 25°C (82°F) through inland areas and a few degrees cooler along the coast and in Newfoundland and Labrador.

Spring and fall are excellent times to visit Atlantic Canada. While May-June is considered a shoulder season, in many ways the province is at its blooming best in spring. After the first weekend in September, there is a noticeable decrease in travelers across the province. But early fall (Sept.-Oct.) provides pleasant daytime temperatures, reduced room rates, and uncrowded attractions. By late September, fall colors are at their peak, creating a mini-surge in visitors.

Officially, winter extends from late December into March, but in reality, most attractions and visitor information centers, as well as accommodations in resort towns, start closing in mid-October. Halifax’s winter average daily high temperature is a degree or two above freezing, with temperatures decreasing the farther north you go (the average daily February temperature in Labrador City is -20°C/-4°F).

Passports and Visas

To enter Canada, a passport is required of citizens and permanent residents of the United States. For further information, see the website http://travel.state.gov. For current entry requirements to Canada, check the Citizenship and Immigration Canada website (www.cic.gc.ca).

All other foreign visitors must have a valid passport and may need a visa or visitors permit, depending on their country of residence and the vagaries of international politics. At present, visas are not required for citizens of the United States, the British Commonwealth, or Western Europe. The standard entry permit is for six months, and you may be asked to show onward tickets or proof of sufficient funds to last you through your intended stay.

Transportation

Visitors to Atlantic Canada have the option of arriving by road, rail, ferry, or air. Halifax Stanfield International Airport is the main gateway for flights arriving from North America and Europe. Ferries cross to Yarmouth from Maine, while the main rail line enters the region from Québec and terminates at Halifax. Driving, whether in your own vehicle or a rental car, is by far the best way to get around Atlantic Canada, although some towns are served by bus.

BEST OF Nova Scotia & Atlantic Canada

Two weeks is an excellent length of time for visiting each of the four provinces and not feeling too rushed along the way. You could just spend the entire two weeks in the three Maritime provinces, or only explore the far reaches of Newfoundland and Labrador, but this itinerary has it all.

Nova Scotia

Day 1: Halifax

After arriving in Halifax, settle in at a historic downtown B&B such as the Halliburton. Spend the afternoon taking in sights such as the Old Town Clock on the way to Halifax Citadel National Historic Site and the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, and make dinner reservations at a waterfront restaurant.

Day 2: South Shore

100 KM (62 MI)/1 HOUR

From Halifax, drive south through Peggy’s Cove (take the obligatory lighthouse photo) and Mahone Bay (browse the arts and crafts shops, eat lunch at Rebecca’s Restaurant) to Lunenburg. There’s plenty to see en route, but arrive in time for an afternoon walk through the UNESCO-protected core of downtown, which is filled with colorful buildings. For the views alone, the Salt Shaker Deli and Inn is my favorite Lunenburg lodging.

Day 3: Fundy Coast

250 KM (155 MI)/6 HOURS, INCLUDING FERRY

From Lunenburg, drive across to Annapolis Royal to explore the historic town and visit Fort Anne. Stop in Digby for a meal of plump Digby scallops and board the afternoon ferry for Saint John, New Brunswick. Plan on an overnight at one of the lodgings in nearby Fundy National Park.

New Brunswick

Day 4: Fundy National Park

160 KM (99 MI)/2 HOURS

Mornings are a delight in Fundy National Park, so plan on exploring the Fundy Trail Parkway and taking a coastal drive. Be sure to stop at the lookout points and beaches along the way. At low tide, you can walk a short stretch across the exposed ocean floor at Long Beach. Turn in early to rest up for day of hiking in the national park.

Day 5: Fundy National Park

There’s a hike for everyone in Fundy National Park, which showcases a cross section of Fundy landscape from coastal cliffs to dense forests. Take a relaxing swim or paddle before tucking into a seafood dinner in nearby Alma.

Prince Edward Island

Day 6: Cavendish

260 KM (160 MI)/3 HOURS

Leaving the Fundy Coast behind, drive to Prince Edward Island via the Confederation Bridge. Check in early to Charlottetown’s Shipwright Inn and spend the afternoon on a rural jaunt through Cavendish, strolling the red-sand beaches of Prince Edward Island National Park and stopping at Green Gables Heritage Place.

Back to Nova Scotia

Day 7: Cape Breton Island

240 KM (150 MI)/3 HOURS, INCLUDING FERRY

Rise early to catch the ferry from Wood Islands to Caribou. Learn about the arrival of the early Scottish settlers at Hector Heritage Quay in Pictou, then drive through to Baddeck, on Cape Breton Island. Squeeze in a visit to Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. Most rooms at Baddeck’s Water’s Edge Inn have balconies with views of the sun setting over the lake.

Day 8: Cabot Trail

93 KM (58 MI)/1 HOUR

Baddeck is the gateway to the famously scenic Cabot Trail, the first section of which you’ll be driving today, to Ingonish. Once arrived, you can choose between hiking coastal trails, relaxing on the beach at Ingonish, and golfing at Highlands Links.

Day 9: Cabot Trail

280 KM (174 MI)/4 HOURS

Continue around the Cabot Trail in a counterclockwise direction, cutting across the rugged interior of Cape Breton Highlands National Park to Chéticamp, with time to hike the Skyline Trail and go whale-watching at Pleasant Bay.

Day 10: Sydney to Halifax

400 KM (250 MI)/4.5 HOURS

Head to Sydney and take a stroll along the waterfront, and then head out to the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site for a deep dive into local history. It’s then an easy 4.5-hour drive back to Halifax, or you can catch the evening ferry to Argentia (reserve a cabin for extra comfort).

Adding On: Five Days in Newfoundland and Labrador

Day 11: St. John’s

140 KM (87 MI)/2 HOURS

You’ll wake to your first views of Newfoundland as the ferry pulls into Argentia, the gateway to the Avalon Peninsula. There’s plenty to see on the way to the capital, including the archaeological dig at the Colony of Avalon. Once in St. John’s, head to The Rooms to learn about local history and Signal Hill National Historic Site for the views. Make reservations at Mallard Cottage for dinner. Still feeling energetic? The lively downtown bars of George Street come alive after dark.

Day 12: Across Newfoundland

700 KM (435 MI)/7 HOURS

Head west from St. John’s, stopping at Trinity, a picturesque fishing village where little has changed in over a century, en route to Gros Morne National Park, where during the long days of summer you have time for a walk through the Tablelands and can still be at Lobster Cove Head in time to watch the sunset. Gros Morne Cabins are a centrally located base in Rocky Harbour.

historic Trinity, Newfoundland

TOP EXPERIENCE

Fresh from the Sea

While the down-home cooking found across Atlantic Canada is irresistible, it is seafood that is the star. The lobster season is generally in spring, but they are kept in holding ponds year-round. Mussels, scallops, oysters, cold-water shrimp, and snow crab are all harvested from local waters throughout the year. Fish species caught commercially and available in local restaurants include halibut, Atlantic salmon, haddock, and cod.

You’ll find white-glove service at some seafood restaurants, but your most memorable meals will be less formal, including the following favorites.

NOVA SCOTIA

Almost completely surrounded by the sea, Nova Scotia offers up a wide variety of ocean delicacies.

• Kick back on the Halifax harborfront with fish-and-chips in a casual setting at Salty’s.

• Oh My Cod and Rebecca’s Restaurant in Mahone Bay serve up delicious chowder on the South Shore.

• On the Fundy Coast, waterfront seafood market Birch Street Seafoods is the perfect place to try Digby’s famous scallops.

NEW BRUNSWICK

Look for lobsters in the north and scallops along the Bay of Fundy.

• In the village of Alma, try Collins Lobster Shop, where you can choose a lobster, wait until it’s boiled to perfection, and then enjoy an outdoor feast overlooking the Bay of Fundy.

• Try fresh, local seafood with a French Acadian twist at Catch 22 on Moncton’s main street.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

• Blue Mussel Café, a rustic waterfront café overlooking North Rustico Harbour, has tasty mussels steamed to order, as well as many other seafood delicacies.

• Lobster suppers are an island tradition. You’ll see them advertised locally, or head to the popular New Glasgow Lobster Suppers in Cavendish for a full lobster with all the trimmings.

• Although O’Leary’s Potato Country Kitchen is mostly about potatoes, save room for a slab of seaweed pie—but don’t feel too guilty if you decide this island delicacy is not for you.

• FireWorks Feast is a truly unique dining experience. This dinner, hosted by the Inn at Bay Fortune, relies on farm-fresh produce and an abundance of local seafood.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

Seal-flipper pie, moose burgers, and roasted wild game—partridge, rabbit, and caribou—are Newfoundland and Labrador highlights.

• Head to the red-and-white lighthouse in Ferryland on the Avalon Peninsula and order a picnic of crab cakes and other gourmet goodies.

• Norseman Restaurant near historic L’Anse aux Meadows offers fresh, creative seafood dishes.

Top 10 Cultural Attractions

While most visitors who choose Atlantic Canada for their vacations do so for the outdoors, there are a number of appealing cultural attractions to enjoy.

NOVA SCOTIA

• Take a tour of Alexander Keith’s Brewery in Halifax.

• Explore the colorful architecture of Historic Downtown Lunenburg.

• Wander along one of North America’s best-preserved pre-1800s streets at Annapolis Royal.

• Soak up historic luxury at the Keltic Lodge on Cape Breton Island.

NEW BRUNSWICK

• Take in the sights and smells of Kingsbrae Garden, St. Andrews.

• Immerse yourself in Acadian culture at Le Pays de la Sagouine.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

• Learn about the founding of Canada at Province House, Charlottetown.

• Step into the fictional shoes of Anne of Green Gables at Cavendish.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

• Dance the night away on bustling George Street, St. John’s.

• Take an overnight excursion to the abandoned outport village of Battle Harbour, Labrador.

Day 13: Gros Morne National Park

350 KM (215 MI)/4 HOURS

Join a morning boat tour of Gros Morne’s Western Brook Pond and drive north along the Northern Peninsula. Make sure to stop at Port au Choix National Historic Site and the thrombolites of Flowers Cove en route to L’Anse aux Meadows. Dinner at the Norseman Restaurant is a must.

Day 14: Northern Peninsula

330 KM (205 MI)/6 HOURS, INCLUDING FERRY

Learn about the remains of the Viking settlement at L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site, then drive to St. Barbe and put your feet up for a couple of hours on the ferry crossing to Labrador. Head north along the Labrador Straits to Mary’s Harbour. Park your vehicle and pack an overnight bag for the short boat trip to Battle Harbour, an “outport” (remote fishing village) that was abandoned in the 1960s, but where restoration efforts include lodging and a dining room.

Day 15: Labrador Straits

770 KM (475 MI)/10 HOURS, INCLUDING FERRY

From Battle Harbour, return to the mainland and explore this remote stretch of coast. Red Bay National Historic Site should definitely be on your itinerary, as should the lighthouse at L’Anse Amour. Catch the ferry back to St. Barbe and continue south to Port aux Basques in time for the evening ferry back to Nova Scotia.

Back to Nova Scotia

Day 16: Eastern Shore

435 KM (270 MI)/6 HOURS

Arriving in North Sydney around dawn on the overnight ferry, you have plenty of time to make an afternoon flight home from Halifax. If you’re not flying out until the following morning, take Marine Drive along the Eastern Shore and spend the night along this remote stretch of coast, where Sherbrooke Village is a historical highlight and where the beaches of Taylor Head Provincial Park are perfect for a walk.

Best of the Outdoors

This 12-day itinerary is suited for outdoor enthusiasts with a love of nature. It is impossible to discuss adventures in the region without including Newfoundland, and so three days are spent on that island. If you have less time, plan on dedicating your next trip to Atlantic Canada to exploring the region’s largest province. In keeping with the theme, I’ve added accommodations recommendations that keep you close to nature, but if cabins and cottages aren’t your thing, you will find plenty of alternatives along the way.

Nova Scotia

Day 1: Eastern Shore

80 KM (50 MI)/1 HOUR

Pick up your rental car in Halifax and head for the Eastern Shore. Try surfing at Lawrencetown Beach or sea kayaking at Tangier. Enjoy a beachside picnic at Taylor Head Provincial Park. Stay at Paddler’s Retreat Bed and Breakfast and rent a kayak for an evening jaunt around the bay.

Day 2: Cape Breton Island

360 KM (225 MI)/4 HOURS

From the Eastern Shore, drive across Cape Breton Island, stopping for an outdoor lunch of steaming chowder at the Chowder House, and then spend the afternoon swimming and sunbathing at Ingonish Beach. Even if you don’t pay for a room with water views at Glenghorm Beach Resort, the ocean is just a short walk from your front door.

Day 3: Cabot Trail

300 KM (185 MI)/5 HOURS, PLUS OVERNIGHT FERRY

Day 3 is spent in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. In the process of reaching the best hikes, you’ll drive the spectacular Cabot Trail. Leave the pavement behind on the Skyline Trail, a moderate hike that leads to a stunning headland with sweeping ocean views. For a less energetic option, plan on walking to Benjie’s Lake and spend the extra time exploring Black Brook Cove. Either way, when you finish with your exploration of the park, allow two hours to reach North Sydney for the overnight ferry to Port aux Basques.

Newfoundland and Labrador

Day 4: Gros Morne National Park

340 KM (210 MI)/4 HOURS

The overnight ferry from North Sydney arrives in Newfoundland as the sun rises, which makes the early morning drive north to Gros Morne National Park even more enjoyable. In the afternoon, choose between exploring the Tablelands on foot and driving out to Trout River for rugged coastal scenery. Fresh seafood cooked on your barbecue at Mountain Range Cottages winds up this long day.

Day 5: Gros Morne National Park

80 KM (50 MI)/1 HOUR

The boat tour on Western Brook Pond is an absolute must, but allow time to reach the dock, which is only accessible on foot through a low-slung forest. Stop in at the Discovery Centre to learn about the park’s geology and then hike to Green Gardens. Spend another night at Mountain Range Cottages.

Day 6: Northern Peninsula

340 KM (210 MI)/4 HOURS, PLUS OVERNIGHT FERRY

Even the adventurous need a day off, and this is it. Personally, I’d spend the time driving up the Northern Peninsula (Port au Choix National Historic Site makes a solid day trip while still allowing plenty of time for scenic stops), but you could also stay within Gros Morne and tackle the summit of Gros Morne Mountain. Drive back south to Port aux Basques and catch the evening ferry back to North Sydney, Nova Scotia.

A Family Affair

The most important thing to remember when traveling with children is not to try to fit too much in. Instead, sacrifice covering great distances for enjoying specific sights and towns for extended periods of time.

NOVA SCOTIA

• Museum of Natural History, Halifax, makes learning about the province’s flora and fauna interesting.

• Harbour Hopper Tours, Halifax, will take you from land to sea in an amphibious tour boat.

• Shubenacadie Wildlife Park, near Truro, is the best place in the province to get up close and personal with Canadian wildlife.

• Hector Heritage Quay, Pictou, is anchored by a replica of a historic schooner that you are welcome to explore.

NEW BRUNSWICK

• Hopewell Rocks, Fundy Coast, allows the opportunity to “walk on the bottom of the ocean”.

• Historic Garrison District, Fredericton, takes visitors back in time in an enjoyable and educational way.

• Magnetic Hill, Moncton, confuses all ages as an optical illusion created by nature.

• Parlee Beach, Shediac, is Atlantic Canada’s most popular destination for a beach vacation.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

• Prince Edward Island National Park is renowned for its red-sand beaches and warm ocean water.

• Anne of Green Gables attractions, Cavendish, center around one of the world’s most beloved literary characters.

• Attend a lobster supper and the whole family can enjoy this local delicacy at a reasonable price.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

• The Rooms, St. John’s, the province’s premier museum, is filled with modern interactive displays.

• Norstead, near St. Anthony’s, is a re-created Viking village with costumed interpreters.

Prince Edward Island

Day 7: Island to Island

320 KM (200 MI)/5 HOURS, INCLUDING FERRY

Hopefully you’ve not spent all night being entertained by the Celtic musicians in the onboard lounge, because the ferry docks at North Sydney just before dawn and the morning is spent driving to Caribou, where you board the ferry to Prince Edward Island. The fossil cliffs of Arisaig make a worthwhile detour en route to North Sydney. Once on the island, stop at Rossignol Estate Winery for a bottle of wine and continue to Murray Harbour’s Ocean Acres, where you can relax with a glass of Chardonnay on the screened porch of your cottage.

Day 8: Eastern Prince Edward Island

100 KM (62 MI)/1 HOUR

Yes, you’ve seen the tourist brochures espousing the touristy wonders of Prince Edward Island, but on this visit you’re chasing a more nature-oriented experience. In this regard, spend the morning on a seal-watching trip departing from North Lake. Alternatively, just a short drive from your overnight accommodation at Murray Harbour, stroll along the singing sands of the beach below Basin Head, and walk through the sand-covered coastal forests of Prince Edward Island National Park before overnighting at Crowbush Cove.

New Brunswick

Day 9: Through New Brunswick

260 KM (160 MI)/3 HOURS

Reserve an early tee time at the Links at Crowbush Cove. After lunch, strike out for the Confederation Bridge to New Brunswick and head to Sackville Waterfowl Park for its bird-watching opportunities. Walking through the “flowerpots” at Hopewell Rocks is tide-dependent, but you can always kayak as a high-tide alternative. Spend the night in Fundy National Park.

Day 10: New Brunswick’s Fundy Coast

220 KM (136 MI)/2.5 HOURS

From Fundy National Park, drive down the Fundy Coast to Saint John, where walking the trails and strolling along the beach at Irving Nature Park gives you an idea of what the entire coastline would have looked like before European settlement. Continue along the coastline to St. Andrews. You’re staying in a seaside town, so you may as well take advantage of the delightful location by reserving a cottage at the Seaside Beach Resort.

Back to Nova Scotia

Day 11: Nova Scotia’s Fundy Coast

240 KM (149 MI)/5 HOURS, INCLUDING FERRIES

Drive back to Saint John from St. Andrews and catch the ferry across the Bay of Fundy. Drive out to Brier Island, via two short ferry trips, taking the time to hike to Balancing Rock en route. An afternoon whale-watching trip can be combined with an evening of bird-watching. Stay at Brier Island Lodge, and dine in-house.

Day 12: Return to Halifax

240 KM (149 MI)/3 HOURS

The outdoor-oriented vacation is nearly over, but there’s one more activity to try on the drive between Brier Island and Halifax, and Atlantic Canada is the only place in the world you can do so—riding the tidal bore down the Shubenacadie River.

Best Scenic Drives

A great way to see Atlantic Canada is to hop in your car (or rental car) and explore. Scenic drives can be wonderful family vacation activities, too. See some of the beauty of Atlantic Canada while cruising along in these areas:

NOVA SCOTIA

• South Shore: We devote an entire chapter to the South Shore of Nova Scotia, a scenic drive of epic proportions that extends between Halifax and Shelburne in 210 km (130 mi) via Highway 103, but highlights such as Mahone Bay, Lunenburg, Crescent Beach, and numerous coastal provincial parks require detours—and at least two or three days.

• Cabot Trail: For its stunning coastal scenery and abundant wildlife, the 311-km (190-mi) Cabot Trail, which loops around the top end of Cape Breton Island, is generally regarded as one of the world’s most scenic drives. You could make the loop in five or six hours, but two or three days are needed to fully appreciate the beauty of the region.

• Bras d’Or Lakes: The two-hour drive from Canso Causeway to Sydney on Highway 105 gives travelers a taste of the Bras D’Or Lakes, but to fully appreciate the expansive water, plan on detouring to Iona and as far as Big Pond, adding an extra three hours driving time. Baddeck is a good base for exploring this area.

NEW BRUNSWICK

• Saint John River Valley: The Trans-Canada Highway zooms up the Saint John River between Fredericton and Edmundston in 270 km (165 mi), a three-hour drive, but travel upriver along the backroads and you’ll pass through delightful villages such as Woodstock and Hartland.

• Strait Coast: Following Northumberland Strait, which separates Prince Edward Island from the mainland, the two-hour drive between Cape Tormentine and Miramichi is notable for warm swimming beaches, French-influenced attractions such as Le Pays de la Sagouine, and the barrier islands of Kouchibouguac National Park.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

• North Cape: On the western portion of Prince Edward Island, all routes lead north to North Cape, but I suggest taking the coastal road (Highway 14) via West Point and Miminegash to the end of the road, where you enjoy sweeping ocean views, hiking trails, and even a restaurant. With scenic stops, allow a full day from Summerside for the 300-km (185-mi) round-trip.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

• Irish Loop: This 310-km (190-mi) drive around the Avalon Peninsula starts and finishes in St. John’s. It can be completed easily in a full day, but stopping to enjoy a boat tour of Witless Bay, the archaeological sites in Ferryland, and the wilderness of Mistaken Point would require an overnight stay en route.

• Northern Peninsula: For coastal scenery, charming seaside villages, and the splendor of Gros Morne National Park, the 420-km (260-mi), five-hour trip between Deer Lake and St. Anthony in western Newfoundland is one of my favorite scenic drives in all of Canada. A lack of crowds and little-known attractions such as the thrombolites of Flowers Cove are a bonus.

Best Whale-Watching

Atlantic Canada is one of the world’s best destinations for whale-watching. Humpback whales are loved by all for their spectacular breaching displays and present throughout local waters. Other common species are finback, pilot, and minke whales. Right and blue whales are present in local waters, but rarely sighted on tours.

No guarantees, but with an abundance of whales relatively close to land, you will generally see one or more whales at the locations detailed below. The whale-watching season extends from May-September, with August generally regarded as prime-time whale-watching for the better chance of calmer seas, warmer weather, and less fog.

Each whale-watching operator offers something different, so to ensure your enjoyment, ask questions such as “Is the boat covered?” and “Is there a washroom onboard?” Also be aware of weather forecasts and check the operators’ social media feeds to see how successful recent trips have been.

Here are the best destinations for whale-watching:

NOVA SCOTIA

• Bay of Fundy: Tours depart from Brier Island and St. Andrews (New Brunswick) with finback, humpback, and minke whales the most common sightings. The right whale, the world’s rarest whale, is occasionally spotted.

• The west coast of Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Highlands National Park is also the premier land-based viewing spot in the Maritimes.

• Cape Breton Island: Pilot whales are often sighted from high points within Cape Breton Highlands National Park (the lookout at the end of the Skyline Trail is your best bet), but you can also take a boat tour from Chéticamp or Pleasant Bay. In addition to pilots, you may see humpback and minke whales.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

• Witless Bay Ecological Reserve: Join a whale-watching tour through this marine reserve south of St. John’s and you’ll mostly likely see humpback whales, but killer, finback, and minke whales are also present.

• St. Anthony: On Newfoundland’s Northern Peninsula, the main goal for tour-boat operators is getting visitors up close and personal with icebergs, but sightings of humpback, minke, and finback whales are common on these same tours.

• Quirpon Island: Only serious nature-lovers make the long trek to this remote island off the northern tip of Newfoundland’s Northern Peninsula. But the rewards are many, including land-based whale-watching and plentiful humpback, minke, and orca sightings on boat and kayak tours.

In Newfoundland and Labrador there are dozens of recognized land-based viewing spots, including Signal Hill, Cape St. Mary’s, the Skerwink Trail, Trinity, Cape Bonavista, Twillingate, and St. Anthony. You may also see whales on the ferry crossing between the island of Newfoundland and Labrador.

SPECIAL TOPIC

Hiking in Nova Scotia & Atlantic Canada

Although many of Atlantic Canada’s most spectacular landscapes can be admired from the roadside, to really appreciate the rugged wilderness that defines the region plan on lacing up your hiking boots and exploring trails as varied as short interpretive walks and as challenging as mountain summits.

Tips

• Summer is prime hiking season in Atlantic Canada, although spring and fall have their own charms—especially the latter when forests burst with distinctive yellow and orange fall colors.

• For all but the shortest walks, wear comfortable and appropriate footwear, and carry a day pack with basics such as drinking water, snacks, and a rain jacket. Insect repellent is wise for inland hikes May-September.

• Most hiking trails are within provincial and national parks, where visitor centers will have weather and trail reports. On the Parks Canada website (https://parks.canada.ca), click through to each park for up-to-date trail reports.

Best Hikes

Nova Scotia

• Cape Chignecto Coastal Trail (51 km/32 mi loop, difficult): One of Atlantic Canada’s few long-distance hikes, this challenging coastal wilderness trail in Cape Chignecto Provincial Park hugs the spectacular Bay of Fundy, with huts and campgrounds en route. Allow three days to complete the loop.

• Beech Grove Trail (2 km/1.2 mi loop, easy): Kejimkujik National Park is laced with easy hiking trails, including this walk over glacial drumlins to the Mersey River. Allow 40 minutes.

• Headland Trail (4 km/2.5 mi each way, easy): This two-hour round-trip trek in Taylor Head Provincial Park leads through windswept coastal forest to remote beaches and a rocky headland jutting into the Atlantic Ocean. If you return via rocky Spry Bay, you’ll have walked 10 km (6.2 mi); allow three hours.

• Skyline Trail (3.3 km/2 mi each way, easy): If you only have time for one hike in Cape Breton Highlands National Park, make it the Skyline, to a viewpoint high above the ocean where whales often frolic far below. Allow two hours out and back.

New Brunswick

• Coastal Trail (10 km/6.2 mi each way, moderate): Allow a half day for this scenic trail through forest and fern glades to a string of viewpoints scattered along the coastal cliff edge of Fundy National Park.

• Mount Carleton Trail (4.4 km/2.7 mi each way, difficult): It’s uphill all the way to the summit of New Brunswick’s highest point, but you’ll be rewarded by 360-degree views of the namesake Mount Carleton Provincial Park and wilderness beyond. Allow 3-4 hours round-trip.

• Kelly’s Beach Boardwalk (1.2 km/0.7 mi each way, easy): Yes, this trail starts as a boardwalk, but after crossing a string of saltwater lagoons protected by Kouchibouguac National Park, it’s easy beach walking for as long as time allows.

Prince Edward Island

• Confederation Trail (279 km/175 mi one-way, moderate): Created on an abandoned railbed, this hiking and biking trail extends from one end of the island to another, passing through farmland, villages, and forest. I’m not suggesting you walk the entire length, but there are many scenic sections, including the 15-km (9.3-mi) stretch east of Mount Stewart to Morell.

• Greenwich Dunes Trail (4.8 km/3 mi round-trip, easy): While wandering along the beaches of Prince Edward Island National Park is something you will want to do, the park’s Greenwich Dunes Trail through a forest slowly being buried by moving sand dunes is an intriguing detour. Allow 90 minutes.

Newfoundland and Labrador

• Skerwink Trail (5.3 km/3.3 mi loop, easy/moderate): This two-hour loop takes full advantage of high coastal cliffs around Trinity Bay, with coastal sea stacks and the chance to spot whales the main highlights.

• Coastal Trail (4.4 km/2.7 mi each way, easy): Terra Nova National Park is dominated by boreal forest and rocky coastline—and the Coastal Trail takes in the best of both of these features, with beaches and a waterfall adding to the charm. Allow 2-3 hours for the round-trip, or make the waterfall your turnaround point and you’ll be back at the trailhead in a little over an hour.

• Tablelands Trail (4 km/2.5 mi round-trip, easy): Nowhere in Atlantic Canada is there a hike as unique as Tablelands, which traverses a barren 500-million-year-old plateau in the heart of Gros Morne National Park. Allow 1-1.5 hours for the round-trip.

• Gros Morne Mountain Trail (8 km/5 mi each way, difficult): Outdoor enthusiasts who set out on one of Atlantic Canada’s most challenging day hikes are rewarded with sweeping 360-degree views of mountains, inland waterways, and the ocean. Allow eight hours for the round-trip.

Nova Scotia

Halifax

South Shore

Fundy Coast

Central Nova Scotia

Cape Breton Island