Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket

RAY BARTLETT

How to use this ebook:

•  Every chapter begins with a table of contents to help guide you through the content.

•  Tap on blue headings or text to link to correlated content.

•  Within content, tap on blue headings to go back to nearest table of contents.

•  Double-tap on maps or images to zoom in.

•  All entries in the Index and Map Index are linked to specific content for quick navigation.

Contents

Welcome to Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket

Cape Cod

Martha’s Vineyard

Nantucket

Background

Essentials

Resources

Index

List of Maps

Photo Credits

Copyright

Nauset Beach

WELCOME TO Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket

6 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

BEST OF Cape Cod

THE CAPE AND ISLANDS’ BEST BEACHES

BIKING AND HIKING THE CAPE AND ISLANDS

Martha’s Vineyard Getaway

FRESH CATCH

A Weekend in Nantucket

Water Fun for Everyone

Cape Cod takes its name from its wealth of marine resources, and that’s what still makes this area special today. People come to enjoy the seafood, the beaches, and the lazy summer days on the Cape and its neighboring islands of Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. Get to all three, and you’ll have three vacations wrapped into one.

Cape Cod is where you will find live bait shops alongside fine-art galleries, summer-league baseball, live music on town bandstands, double features at the drive-in, and miniature golf with a quirky maritime theme. There are also hundreds of miles of beaches, of course—slack-water estuaries, freshwater ponds, rock-strewn coves, long sandy strands lapped by the rhythmic ebb and flow of the bay, and surf-scoured barrier beaches that occasionally bare the bones of old ships.

Martha’s Vineyard (“the Vineyard”), the larger, more populous, and more readily accessible of the two offshore islands, has become best known for its big-name celebrities and yacht owners. While it’s hardly inexpensive, it doesn’t thumb its nose at budget travelers either. Its small, easily strollable towns brim with one-of-a-kind shops and galleries, interesting architecture, and good food.

Nantucket is a pretty little pearl, with rose-draped cottages hugging narrow lanes and shrubby moors ringed by wide sandy beaches. This port town swathes itself in a mantle of history; arriving ferry passengers will feel like they’ve opened a doorway to the 19th century. Distance and affluence have kept some of the diversity of its neighbors firmly at bay, but it warmly welcomes day-trippers of all stripes.

Allow yourself time to get lost in slow pleasures and seaside charm, to explore not only what’s within these pages but also what’s between the lines and beyond the margins. Save some discoveries for your next visit to the Cape. You’ll be back.

Hyannis

6 TOP EXPERIENCES

1 Hitting the beach for sand, surf, sun, and fun.

2 Winding through the wildlife-rich landscape along the Cape’s biking and hiking trails.

3 Exploring funky, LGBTQ+-friendly Provincetown.

4 Enjoying year-round surfing and a range of breaks.

5 Feasting on fresh seafood, from rich lobster bisque to an old-fashioned clambake.

6 Marveling at whales just offshore of Provincetown’s historic sandbars.

Planning Your Trip

WHERE TO GO

This trio of destinations can be visited in any order you please. Some travelers want to get to all three, busing or driving from Boston or Providence and using the ferries to the islands after (or before) cruising the Cape. Others use the Cape only as a springboard to get to one or both of the islands, and still others skip the islands and stay on the “mainland” only. There’s no “right” way to come here, just the way that works best for you.

Cape Cod

No doubt about it, the big draws of Cape Cod are those seasonal verities of sun, sand, and surf, followed closely by golf greens and shopping. There are points of interest indoors too—around every bend in the road is a historic landmark, a local historical museum, or a uniquely themed attraction inviting exploration. Art galleries and artisans’ studios abound. Antiques stores are equally ubiquitous. And given the vital importance of safe navigation to the regional economy, it should come as no surprise to learn that a number of 19th-century lighthouses still stand as beacons over the Cape. At the tip of the Cape, funky Provincetown offers a mix of fisherfolk, artists, and natural beauty, as well as being a proud LGBTQ+ travel destination.

Martha’s Vineyard

The island of Martha’s Vineyard features endless beach roads and peaceful saltwater ponds, often lit by the stunning golden light that has drawn artists to the island for centuries.

Residents divide the island into down-island (east) and up-island (west). The former is home to the island’s three main population centers: touristy Vineyard Haven, chic Edgartown, and charming Oak Bluffs. Up-island is more rural, with the cow pastures of West Tisbury and Chilmark sharing space with the scenic fishing village of Menemsha and the cliffs of Aquinnah.

Nantucket

Life doesn’t get more idyllic (or more preppy) than in the cobblestoned main streets, saltbox homes, and creaking docks of this community, renowned for its past life as the whaling capital of the world. It was that status—enjoyed from about 1800 to 1840—that brought great wealth to the community, which is to this day studded with the immense captains’ homes of yore. That wealth is still readily apparent today in the form of new mansions, sometimes complete with a helipad or two in the backyard, and boutique shopping throughout central Nantucket town.

WHEN TO GO

High Season

Beach lovers and sun worshippers heed the call of Cape Cod’s summertime offerings; the sandy beaches, warm-weather festivals, and sea-centric and conservation land-based activities available here are all an outdoor enthusiast needs to get hooked on the area in high season.

Shoulder Season

For those who’d rather see the area than muddle through the crowds it attracts, in late September-early October the hordes thin out and give way to those who want more one-on-one time with the towns, the beaches, and the land. Starting as early as April, things begin to perk up again, but the season doesn’t really get rolling until early June, when beach weather once again turns dependable.

Low Season

Deeper into the cold winter season, December-March, things get even calmer. Stores tend to reduce hours drastically, restaurants go dark for weeks at a time, and only die-hard visitors keep the inns and housing rental market busy.

BEFORE YOU GO

Unlike the rest of Cape Cod, the islands by definition have limited space and are thus almost always fully booked in high season. Heed warnings to book accommodations and make restaurant reservations well in advance. For lodging, it’s best to secure arrangements several weeks ahead of time, and several months in advance for holiday and festival periods.

Transportation

Cape Cod

Only major town centers of Cape Cod are easily accessible by bus. From Boston’s South Station terminal, Plymouth & Brockton buses depart daily year-round for Hyannis and the Outer Cape (from Orleans to Provincetown), while Peter Pan buses run from Boston’s Logan Airport and South Station to Bourne, Falmouth, and Woods Hole on the Upper Cape. Peter Pan also runs from both upstate New York and Manhattan to Hyannis via Providence. In summer there are ferries between Boston and Provincetown. Local public buses serve all 15 towns of the Cape, although service is often only to the town center, not to outlying areas like beaches or hiking trails.

Hyannis’s Main Street

Martha’s Vineyard

Getting to and from Martha’s Vineyard relies on ferry schedules that vary according to season. Unless you are going to be spending a lot of time up-island, a car is by no means essential and can be a nuisance on the narrow, crowded roadways. The Martha’s Vineyard Regional Transit Authority runs buses among all of the island’s towns.

Nantucket

Ferry schedules to Nantucket vary by season. The Nantucket Regional Transit Authority does continuous loops from Straight Wharf in Nantucket Town to Madaket, Surfside, Siasconset, and the airport. By far the best way to avoid the frustration of summertime traffic on either island is to avoid contributing to it by renting a bicycle.

What to Pack

Packing for a visit to Cape Cod and the islands depends on what time of year you go. In spring and fall, when temperatures can be unpredictable, sweaters and a medium-weight jacket are key to rolling with the weather’s changes. In winter, a heavy winter coat, umbrella, and snow boots are essential. And in summer, when most visitors swarm to the area, a rain jacket is still recommended, as are a few sweaters to throw on when nights get chilly. Beach lovers should be sure to bring along the usual surf-side gear (bathing suits, flip-flops, beach bags, sunscreen, a good book, and the like), although beach towels are provided at many hotels and inns. Meanwhile, in all seasons, comfortable shoes make walking the area’s meandering town sidewalks a lot more pleasant.

BEST OF Cape Cod

Diving into the unique attractions that the coast and its islands have to offer is easy with just a little basic planning; many of the region’s gems are found together in accessible clusters. It’s not exactly easy to get around the Cape using only public transportation. A car allows you the freedom to take leisurely drives and explore the many sights along the way at your own pace.

Day 1

Begin your journey in Sandwich and head east along Route 6A toward Brewster (50 minutes), stopping at Heritage Museums and Gardens in Sandwich (10 minutes), Sandy Neck (15 minutes), Millway Beach in Barnstable (20 minutes), or the Edward Gorey House in Yarmouthport (30 minutes), and at whatever antiques shops or art galleries strike your fancy. Watch the sun set over Cape Cod Bay from the Bass Hole Boardwalk (35 minutes) in Yarmouthport, or from one of the town’s lovely bay-side beaches. Stay in Brewster, near the east end of the Old King’s Highway, where a number of historic sea captain’s mansions have been converted into B&Bs, any one of which will make a good base for these first three nights.

Heritage Museums and Gardens

Day 2

Spend a few hours cycling the Cape Cod Rail Trail. The route is most varied to the south, with ponds, cranberry bogs, and deeply wooded stretches. This being Massachusetts, there’s even a nifty little bike rotary where the main rail trail intersects with the Old Colony spur to Chatham. In the afternoon, visit Brewster’s Cape Cod Museum of Natural History, before an early seafood dinner at Brewster Fish House.

Day 3

Head north to the Cape Cod National Seashore in Eastham (20 minutes) and Wellfleet (25 minutes). Spend time at Coast Guard Beach (20 minutes), a favorite of the state’s corps of wet-suited surfers, beneath the red-flashing beacon of Nauset Light. Continue to Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary (10 minutes), occupying the extensive salt marshes and wooded shore on the calm western side of the Outer Cape. Explore the galleries and shops of Wellfleet (10 minutes), perhaps the Cape’s least touristy town. If you’ve never experienced a drive-in movie, you’ll have your chance tonight after sundown at the Wellfleet Drive-In Theatre (15 minutes).

Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary

Day 4

Bid adieu to your Brewster B&B hosts and proceed to Provincetown (50 minutes), the Cape’s answer to Key West. Spend today visiting the galleries and shops of Commercial Street. While strolling around, don’t miss stepping into the public library for excellent aerial views from the Pilgrim Monument. In the afternoon, go on a dune tour. You owe it to yourself to go whale-watching, so if you won’t be here for Day 5, do this now. If you time it right, you can catch a burlesque/drag show at the Crown & Anchor before heading home.

Day 5

P-town redux: Go whale-watching in the morning, and then rent a bike and spend the afternoon riding the National Seashore’s Province Lands trails (5 minutes from MacMillan Wharf). Time your ride so that you end up at Herring Cove Beach for the best show in town: sunset. Then fill up on a plate of succulent fried scallops at John’s Foot Long.

Herring Cove Beach, Cape Cod

Day 6

Pack up the car and head south to Chatham (60 minutes) to the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge. Take a wildlife-watching cruise with Monomoy Island Excursions, or make a full day trip of it with a naturalist-guided walking tour, including a visit to the historic lighthouse at its tip. You may want to pack a picnic (there are supermarkets and convenience stores) for lunch, but for dinner, hit the “Ho” (Land Ho! restaurant) in Orleans, for great food and a fun local’s-pub-type finish to the day.

TOP EXPERIENCE

The Cape and Islands’ Best Beaches

No matter where you are on the Cape, you’re never more than 10 minutes from a beach, and they’re all lovely. Here are the top picks among the many wonderful options.

CAPE COD

• Old Silver Beach: This Falmouth beach is on the Buzzards Bay side and as such gets great views of ships and other vessels headed for the Cape Cod Canal. The water is warmer than the Atlantic and Cape Cod Bay sides, and currents are family friendly, usually without waves or undertow.

• The Knob: Not technically a beach per se, the Knob is a great spot for beachcombing, with rocks, shells, sea critters, and wading. You can hike up to the top for a bird’s-eye view or just grab a towel and park somewhere on the sand and watch the boats go by.

• Sandy Neck Beach: This Cape beach is as scenic as it gets, with wood fences, wave-rounded stones, silky white sand, and terns that wheel through the sky. There’s a snack bar and restrooms in summer, as well as 4WD camping (permit required).

• Craigville Beach: This stretch of white south-facing sand has almost no current and looks out at the scintillating waters of Nantucket Sound. It’s one of the spots with a “beach scene” and thus is a great choice for college students looking to make friends or party. There are facilities, some restaurants in summer, and parking, though not nearly enough of it. Arrive early to make sure you get a spot.

• Gray’s Beach: Another top Cape beach, this picture-perfect beach is inside a bay estuary, with a boardwalk and ever changing scenery with the tide. At low tide you can walk out across azure puddles and beautiful sand flats. At high tide it’s perfect for swimming and kayaking.

• Nauset Light Beach: Lighthouses and Cape Cod go together like ice cream and apple pie, and this one in Eastham is as picture-perfect as any, with its beautiful red-and-white tower and the light itself, still in operation today.

• Coast Guard Beach: Consistently ranked as one of America’s top beaches, Coast Guard really has it all. The evocative ranger station overlooks a marsh estuary and miles of unbroken white Cape shores. Seals and great whites are here, as are surfers and sunbathers. The “elbow” location means it’s accessible to nearly any Cape visitor—which means parking can be tricky; most visitors will need to use the free shuttle.

• Race Point Beach: Include a little pink from a nice sunset or some blue ocean in the background, and you’ll have a memory of the sand dunes at the Cape Cod National Seashore that you’ll cherish for years.

MARTHA’S VINEYARD

• Gay Head: The beach beneath these painted cliffs in Martha’s Vineyard is pretty enough to warrant its own trip. Swim in the warm waters of Nantucket Sound or sunbathe beneath artfully eroded cliffs that will have you setting your camera into panoramic mode.

NANTUCKET

• Madaket Beach: Located in Nantucket, this unmissable beach has powdery white sand, surf (strong currents at times), and lovely photogenic dunes.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Biking and Hiking the Cape and Islands

Few places offer such a wealth of options for hiking and biking as the Cape. Mile upon mile of unused railway track have been converted to bike paths, and each town has numerous conservation lands that are crisscrossed with trails. Many are multiuse areas too: In addition to avid cyclists on mountain bikes, you’ll find people out walking their dogs, families with young kids going birdwatching, joggers, runners, and more. Best of all, parking in many of these diverse areas is actually free, or at least far less expensive than at the beaches.

Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket are so easy to bike around that it’s hardly worth mentioning, but there are a number of lovely walking routes.

Cape Cod

Cape Cod Canal Bike Path

BOURNE TO SANDWICH

6.5 MI ONE-WAY

Spanning both sides of the Cape Cod Canal, this paved and well-maintained biking and walking path offers great views of the Cape’s three bridges, plus waterbirds, fishing, and the boats going by on the canal.

Shining Sea Bikeway

WOODS HOLE TO NORTH FALMOUTH

10.7 MI ONE-WAY

You can start in Woods Hole and bike all the way to Falmouth center and beyond on this paved trail that goes right by some stunning beaches, as well as through woods and marshes.

West Barnstable Conservation Area

WEST BARNSTABLE

21 MI OF TRAILS

This unpaved area, also known as the Trail of Tears, is a network of wooded trails that crisscross a large, roughly triangular area bordered by the road, the airport, and a set of power lines. It’s great for mountain bikers, as the rugged up-and-down terrain offers challenging rides.

Cape Cod Rail Trail

SOUTH YARMOUTH TO WELLFLEET

27 MI ONE-WAY

One of the area’s first paved trails, the Cape Cod Rail Trail is nearly flat and takes you past lovely cranberry bogs, kettle ponds, pine forests, and quaint Cape villages.

Cape Cod National Seashore

PROVINCE LANDS VISITOR CENTER TO PROVINCETOWN

5 MI ONE-WAY

Not exactly an official bike trail, this route can connect the Rail Trail with Provincetown, though there are large sections that must be shared with cars.

Province Lands

PROVINCETOWN

A gorgeous and well-maintained network of trails lets you explore the rugged, salt-stunted worlds of the P-town dunes. You’ll see blueberry and huckleberry bushes, beech forests, pine and scrub oak thickets, sand dunes, beaches, and a host of birds and wildlife as you go.

Martha’s Vineyard

Cedar Tree Neck

WEST TISBURY

Along Martha’s Vineyard’s northwest shoreline, this conservation land is stunning—leading from a wooded parking lot down to unhurried, rock-strewn coastal beaches and then back to cliff-side bluffs. It’s well worth seeking out if you’ve got a car and a morning or afternoon free to wander (note, it’s not accessible to wheelchairs.

Manuel F. Correllus State Forest

SOUTH OF TISBURY

A hidden gem for hikers and mountain bikers alike, this state forest offers miles of fire roads and paved paths—all right in the middle of the island. In winter, the property is a great spot for cross-country skiing.

Nantucket

Lily Pond Park

WEST OF DOWNTOWN NANTUCKET

Tucked behind homes and with the lovely steeple of the First Congregational Church presiding in the background, this partial boardwalk, partial grass, and partial mud meander is a lovely spot for families to take kids or for couples to hold hands. It’s also one of the few nature walks where one could bring a wheelchair, at least for parts of it. The wooden walkway allows access over the muddiest parts, and it connects several areas of grass and lawn.

Polpis Road Bike Path

‘SCONSET

8.7 MI ONE-WAY

Pedal along the Polpis Road bike path and stop at the island’s sights, including the Nantucket Shipwreck and Lifesaving Museum and the Middle Moors.

Middle Moors

EAST OF NANTUCKET TOWN

This great expanse of undeveloped land features island vistas and miles of roads for hikers and bikers. Maintained by the Nantucket Conservation Foundation, the moors preserve the island’s grass and heath ecosystems.

Martha’s Vineyard Getaway

Day 1

Arrive in Vineyard Haven and charter a windjammer with Black Dog Tall Ships for a day on the water. Afterward, take a shuttle to Oak Bluffs and stroll the winding lanes of colorful cottages in Oak Bluffs Campground. In the evening, take a 10-minute drive into downtown Edgartown and visit Edgartown Lighthouse (Edgartown Harbor), built in 1828. Not far away is the delicious Alchemy, where you can finish off the day with a tasty dinner.

Day 2

Pack a picnic lunch and spend the morning experiencing a serene reservation area with a trip to Mytoi. The pine-forest Japanese-style enclave has rare and exotic plants and trees and a quiet 0.25-mi trail. Follow that bit of natural splendor with a bit more: The nearby Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge includes 14 mi of walking trails and beachfront. Take a break from hiking to have lunch at one of the picnic tables. After the return hike, grab the ferry back and settle into The Newes from America for a pint and some solidly restoring pub fare. Then get back on the road leading out of Edgartown.

the gardens of Mytoi

Day 3

Spend the day exploring the art galleries and cafés in West Tisbury. If you’re in town on a Wednesday or Saturday during high season, start your day with a spin through the West Tisbury Farmers Market. A visit to the Field Gallery and Sculpture Garden is a great introduction to the local art scene. Continue this leisurely day of admiring art at the Granary Gallery, home to an impressive collection of printed photos.

Day 4

You’ll see the island’s most magnificent corners on foot, but see more of them equally up-close and personal by bike. In Edgartown, grab a bite at Dock Street Coffee Shop, then rent bikes at Wheel Happy and turn your handlebars toward the Massachusetts Audubon Society’s Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary. Bike riding will get you there, but is not allowed while within the wildlife sanctuary: Park your bike and explore on foot the sanctuary’s 6 mi of trails and remote beaches surrounded by woodlands, meadows, pond, and marshes.

Day 5

The paragon of Martha’s Vineyard beauty glows with every evening’s sunset: Aquinnah’s Gay Head Cliffs, a National Natural Landmark. Spend some time perusing the stable of shops and eating some lunch, then spend the rest of the time gawking at the striated red and amber walls of the bluffs—and catch a glimpse of the Elizabeth Islands across Vineyard Sound. When the sky’s show has stopped, head to The Galley for a nice, hearty burger to finish the day.

painted cliffs at Gay Head

TOP EXPERIENCE

Fresh Catch

Cape Cod’s reputation as a treasure trove of ultra-fresh delicious sea creatures is well earned. Start the feast by tucking into raw oysters (some of the best in the world are served on menus around Cape Cod, hailing from the town of Wellfleet). Local clams too are a favorite (medium-size, hard-shell bivalves known as quahogs) and show up in restaurants stuffed, in fried clam cakes (called fritters), or in the area’s cream-based clam chowder.

Entrées dig even deeper into the sea: You’ll find delicacies like lobster, crab, shrimp, and mussels on offer. Fish like cod, striper, salmon, mackerel, and bluefish are also readily available here, and you’ll find them cooked every which way—fried, boiled, sautéed, marinated, braised with wild mushrooms, or filled with bacon and stuffing, then baked.

Here’s a list of some of the best places for seafood throughout Cape Cod and the islands.

CAPE COD

• Brewster Fish House (Brewster): Fancy, pricey seafood done to perfection.

• Sir Cricket’s Fish & Chips (Orleans): Fried platters are the ticket here.

• Mac’s Shack (Wellfleet): The usual fried platters plus unique and healthy options, like sushi-grade tuna wraps in sesame vinaigrette.

• The Wicked Oyster (Wellfleet): Oysters aren’t the only thing on the menu, but they sure are good.

• The Lobster Pot (Provincetown): A Portuguese and Cape-style casual spot with great chowder and fish entrées.

• John’s Foot Long (Provincetown): You can’t get better fried scallop platters, and they’re (almost) affordable, even in summer.

• The Mews Restaurant & Cafe (Provincetown): A contemporary American seafood favorite for both locals and tourists.

MARTHA’S VINEYARD

• Sandy’s Fish & Chips (Vineyard Haven): Fresh fish and great clams.

• The Sweet Life Café (Oak Bluffs): With quirky hits like strawberry gazpacho, this is a locavore paradise: Island-caught seafood, locally grown vegetables, and in-season ingredients are all on the menu.

• Alchemy (Edgartown): Delicious seafood and burgers.

• Larsen’s Fish Market (Menemsha): Great raw bar, clam cakes, and stuffed quahogs.

NANTUCKET

• Òran Mór: Haute cuisine at its island best.

• Straight Wharf Restaurant: Go for the lobster roll at lunch or the poached lobster at dinner.

• The SeaGrille: Year-round standby for great seafood.

A Weekend in Nantucket

Friday

Start the day in the center of Nantucket town, where quaint cobblestone streets and generations-old shops sit next to upscale boutiques. After strolling around, have lunch at Straight Wharf Restaurant for fresh seafood overlooking the water. Along the way back to the hotel, check out the many art galleries, souvenir shops, and craft stores, and finish the day with a reservation at Proprietors Bar & Table, with a great cocktail selection as well as excellent, hearty fare.

Saturday

Pack a beach bag, rent a bike, and ask for a map to Madaket Beach. The well-paved, beautiful bike paths along the way are lined with beach plums and wind past neighborhoods exhibiting the island’s traditional saltbox houses. Gather picnic supplies in town to enjoy during your day on the shore. For dinner, head over to Millie's where you can have great seafood to dine on indoors or at their casual outdoor seating as the sun goes down.

Sunday

Make it a day filled with local history. Begin after breakfast at Museum of African American History, an 1827 site once used as a meeting place and schoolhouse for the island’s African American residents. After lunch, make your way to Nantucket’s Whaling Museum and spend the remainder of the day taking in giant whale skeletons and more whaling lore than you can shake a harpoon at. For dinner, try making a reservation at Òran Mór and enjoy some truly haute cuisine.

Water Fun for Everyone

Whether it’s fishing, boating, surfing, swimming, sea kayaking, sunbathing, or something else, Cape Cod is the place for water lovers of all kinds. Check the list below for top tips on your favorite water activities.

Fishing

Reel Deal Fishing Charters offers full-day or half-day fishing charters you can plan your vacation around. Catch striped bass, blues, bluefin tuna, and a variety of groundfish from one of their two vessels in Pamet Harbor in Truro.

Kayaking and Canoeing

Nauset Marsh and the Cape Cod National Seashore offer spectacular chances for great marsh vistas. Few experiences are more quintessentially Cape Cod than gliding silently along a brackish creek, watching as great blue herons and ducks appear through morning mist. It’s an experience that’s as ethereal and enlightening as it was when the Nauset people rode these same waters in their hand-carved canoes.

Bridge Creek, part of Barnstable Great Marsh, is one of the nicest spots for canoeing and kayaking in the Mid- and Upper Cape. It’s for advanced-level paddlers, but offers an almost Everglades-like feel at times as one slips around blind corners, surprising herons, ducks, and shorebirds.

Surfing

While Coast Guard Beach in Eastham is one of the most popular, the entire Outer Cape, from the elbow of Chatham to the wrist of P-town, is one huge 40-mi-long beach break. The same shifting sandbars that claimed so many ships in these waters make for great waves when conditions are right. The best times of year are spring and fall, when the ground swell is longer due to storms in the Atlantic and there are fewer tourists competing for the waves.

Swimming

Not many kettle ponds match Gull Pond in Wellfleet for freshwater Cape Cod bliss. This pond, the fragile head of the Herring River, is a great spot for a dip anytime from early June-mid-September.

Saltwater wave lovers will want to head to Coast Guard Beach or any of the other Outer Cape spots, whereas families with little ones will prefer the more placid Cape Cod Bay areas of Sandy Neck and Millway Beach, which feature gentle currents and small (if any) waves.

Boating

Quissett Harbor is one of the nicest spots for a sail, and, if winds favor it, you can go all the way out into Buzzards Bay or down to Woods Hole and still be back before sunset.

Cape Cod Bay, via Millway Beach, is the premier spot for boating. The gentle protective arm of the Cape proper keeps currents to a minimum, and it’s not uncommon to see dolphins, sharks, turtles, or even whales as you take in the scenery.