Prague, Vienna & Budapest

JENNIFER D. WALKER & AUBURN SCALLON

How to use this ebook:

•  Every chapter begins with a table of contents to help guide you through the content.

•  Tap on blue headings or text to link to correlated content.

•  Within content, tap on blue headings to go back to nearest table of contents.

•  Double-tap on maps or images to zoom in.

•  All entries in the Index and Map Index are linked to specific content for quick navigation.

Contents

Welcome to Prague, Vienna & Budapest

Prague

Day Trips from Prague

Vienna

Day Trips from Vienna

Budapest

Day Trips from Budapest

Background

Essentials

Resources

Index

List of Maps

Photo Credits

Copyright

swans on Vltava River in Prague

WELCOME TO Prague, Vienna & Budapest

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

IF YOU WANT…

DAY TRIPS AT A GLANCE

WHAT’S NEW

BEST OF Prague, Vienna & Budapest

WHAT TO EAT IN PRAGUE, VIENNA & BUDAPEST

WINE TASTING IN CENTRAL EUROPE

Spectacular Architecture

BEST VIEWS

Prague, Vienna, and Budapest offer travelers a rich tapestry of history and culture.

Before World War I, all three cities were part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and traces of powerful families such as the Habsburgs and Přemyslids linger in the decadent palaces and extravagant buildings. Central European architecture echoes the “World of Yesterday,” with its gilded theaters, grand hotels, and wood-paneled cafés perfumed with percolating coffee and freshly baked cakes. Against this historic backdrop, modern innovations, from international cuisines to eye-catching public art installations, are a delightful contrast.

Life is slow, even reflective, and flows with the seasons. Locals flock to beer gardens across Prague’s neighborhoods to escape the summer heat. When the leaves rust as fall arrives, the Viennese drink “this year’s wine” in the Heurige near the city’s vineyards overlooking the Vienna Woods. And when the temperature drops in December, the scent of spiced hot wine swirls around the cities’ Christmas markets. Music, art, and literature lovers can follow in the footsteps of giants, whether it’s admiring Mucha’s artwork in Prague, visiting Freud’s favorite café in Vienna, or taking in a concert at the Liszt Ferenc Academy in Budapest (founded by the composer himself).

Mariahilferstraße Street in Vienna

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

1 Admiring spectacular architecture, from Prague’s dramatic Gothic monuments to the colorful art nouveau facades in Budapest to Habsburg grandeur in Vienna.

2 Listening to classical music in Vienna, the city where Mozart, Beethoven, Strauss, and Schubert composed and conducted.

3 Sipping foam-topped pivo (beer) in Prague’s beer gardens.

4 Browsing the stalls and enjoying a warm drink alfresco at a Christmas market in the Czech Republic. For a local atmosphere and fewer crowds, head to a market outside Prague.

5 Following in the Habsburgs’ footsteps at Schönbrunn, their summer palace in Vienna.

6 Soaking in Budapest’s thermal baths.

7 Boating or cycling through the Wachau Valley, where crumbling castles, vineyards, and rolling hills line the banks of the Danube.

8 Getting to know Prague’s outer neighborhoods, where you can still find a taste of the untouched-by-tourists vibe the city was once known for.

9 Sipping a Melange in a cozy booth within a classic Viennese coffeehouse.

10 Exploring the vast complex of Prague’s Vyšehrad, which is no less impressive (and much less crowded) than Prague Castle.

Planning Your Trip

WHERE TO GO

Prague

Since regaining independence in the Velvet Revolution of 1989, Prague’s architectural beauty, fairy-tale atmosphere, and delicious beverages have secured the Central European capital a prominent place on travelers’ lists. Postcard-worthy sights like the Charles Bridge, St. Vitus Cathedral at Prague Castle, and the church spires and Astronomical Clock of Old Town Square draw significant crowds to admire (and photograph) their beauty. Prague’s surrounding neighborhoods still hold plenty of character to contrast the typical tourist experience of the historical city center. Head to hilltop Vyšehrad Complex for peaceful sightseeing, enjoy a night of culture inside the old-world glamour of Prague’s theaters and concert halls, and pair any activity, any time of day, with a nice cold pivo (beer).

Day Trips from Prague

For a quick trip, head east to Kutná Hora, home to an impressive collection of churches (including one decorated in bones) and contemporary art. Free-flowing fountains of mineral springs and hillside hikes draw a quieter crowd to the western spa town of Karlovy Vary, while southwestern Pilsen offers impressive architecture and beer tourism. Combine a river-rafting adventure with a visit to the picturesque castle and artistic side of South Bohemia’s beloved Český Krumlov. Venture farther east into South Moravia to discover the diverse architecture and lively nightlife scene in Brno or pair local wines with hiking and stately châteaux in Mikulov and Valtice.

Vienna

Once the heart of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Vienna still bears the grandeur of the Habsburgs with its grand palaces, the Spanish Riding School, and extravagant parkland. Trace the footsteps of Gustav Klimt, then while away the hours in Vienna’s world-class art museums and galleries. Music aficionados should make pilgrimages to Mozart, Beethoven, and Strauss’s former homes before taking in an opera at the world-famous Staatsoper. Visit Freud’s former home, ride a 100-year-old Ferris wheel in the Prater, and round off the day people-watching in one of Vienna’s classic cafés.

Stephansplatz in Vienna

Day Trips from Vienna

Nestled in the Alps, Salzburg—home to both Mozart and The Sound of Music—is just 2 hours from Vienna. Closer to the capital, you can sail up the Danube as it winds through the Wachau Valley where castles and monasteries dot the landscape, or hop on a train to Bratislava, Slovakia, to add another country to your itinerary. Mauthausen Concentration Camp Memorial is a poignant reminder of the horrors of the Holocaust. Right outside Vienna are the Vienna Woods, where you can visit the fairy-tale Liechtenstein Castle just outside Mödling, or relax in the spa town of Baden bei Wien.

Budapest

A tale of two cities, Budapest is divided by the Danube River with spectacular vistas wherever you look. See sights like Buda Castle on Castle Hill, then spend some time soaking in one of the many thermal baths. By night crowds flock to the famous ruin pubs in the Jewish Quarter. Ride back into history on the Children’s Railway, the retro train operated by children, as it chugs up into the Buda Hills, or head over to Memento Park, where Communist statues go to die. Once you’ve seen the sites and eaten your fill of goulash, delve deeper by visiting one of the city’s hundreds of caves or ride a boat up the Danube to one of the Danube beaches.

Day Trips from Budapest

It’s easy to escape Budapest for the day. Take the train down to Lake Balaton, Central Europe’s largest lake, where you can explore the magical peninsula of Tihany, stroll the promenade in Balatonfüred, or sunbathe and party down in Siófok. Alternatively, you can sail down the Danube Bend, hike up to the citadel at Visegrád for stunning views over the Danube, or explore the former Serbian community-turned-artists-colony in picturesque Szentendre. Get on the bus for a couple of hours to the city of Eger in northeastern Hungary, famous for resisting an Ottoman siege at its historic castle and also famous for its spicy red wines served down in the evocatively named Valley of the Beautiful Woman.

If You Want…

• Art museums: You could spend weeks exploring Vienna’s iconic art museums, like the Kunsthistorisches Museum, Belvedere Palace, and the Albertina. Try Prague’s Holešovice neighborhood or Kutná Hora’s GASK Gallery for the Czech contemporary art scene.

• Grand palaces: Visit Vienna’s Hofburg and Schönbrunn Palace or the Czech Republic’s Český Krumlov Castle and Valtice Château.

• Classical music: Enjoy classical concerts and opera in elegant settings in Vienna’s Staatsoper or Musikverein or Prague’s Municipal House or Rudolfinum.

• Hiking: Check out the Vienna Woods (very accessible from the city), forest hikes in Karlovy Vary, or Mikulov’s Holy Hill.

• Other outdoor activities: There are plentiful options including caving in Budapest, boating or cycling down the Danube in the Wachau Valley, cycling from Budapest to Szentendre or along the Danube Bend, and rafting the Vltava River outside Český Krumlov.

• Beer: Prague’s Letná Beer Garden or Břevnov Monastery Brewery can quench your thirst as can Purkmistr and Pilsner Urquell breweries in Pilsen.

• Wine: With Vienna’s Heurige, Eger and the Valley of the Beautiful Woman, Lake Balaton, Prague’s Karlín neighborhood, and the National Wine Cellar at the Valtice Château, you have many options.

• Jewish history: Seek out Prague’s medieval Jewish Quarter, Mikulov’s Jewish Cemetery, Budapest’s Dohány Street Synagogue, or the ruins of the medieval synagogue in Vienna’s Judenplatz.

• Communist history: Look for Budapest’s Memento Park, Prague’s John Lennon Wall, and the spy tower in the St. Nicholas Bell Tower.

• Street food: Try lángos (deep fried savory dough topped with cheese and sour cream) in Budapest or sausages from the Würstelstand in Vienna.

• Markets: Unique experiences await in Vienna’s Naschmarkt, Budapest’s Central Market Hall, and Prague’s Manifesto Anděl.

autumn in Prague

WHEN TO GO

There is no right or wrong time to embark on a journey through Central Europe. Prague, Vienna, and Budapest are beautiful year-round, with plenty to offer throughout the seasons.

High Season (June-Aug. and Dec.)

Summers can be scorching (sometimes rising above 40°C/104°F) and often come punctuated with flash storms. But this is when you can (weather permitting) sail along the Vltava River, sunbathe on a beach beside the Danube, or grab a picnic in a leafy park. Skip July and August if you want to avoid the crowds and heat, especially in Prague or Budapest, when the Sziget Festival is usually in full swing in the latter.

December, when the Christmas markets set up shop, is also a busy time in each city.

Shoulder Season (Apr.-May and Sept.-Nov.)

If you’re outdoorsy, spring and fall may be your best bet. You get to escape the intense temperatures of the summer months and the cold weather of the winter. In the spring, cherry and apricot blossoms burst into bloom, and in the fall, the trees paint the landscape with a palette of rusty colors. Culinary and wine festivals take over the public spaces of the towns and cities—like wine festivals in Buda Castle or South Moravia—so if you’re a foodie, autumn is a good time to visit. Spring and fall both see fewer crowds than you’ll experience in summer or December.

Low Season (Jan.-Mar.)

Winters can dip down to subzero temperatures (as low as -15°C/5°F), yet Central Europe is often at its most beautiful in the snow. When the temperatures plunge, you can escape the chill in a museum or a cozy café with its own curious cast of local characters. Going during the off-season can be easier on the wallet, as hotels often have rooms available at lower prices, but many outdoor attractions close down or operate with limited opening hours.

Day Trips at a Glance

If You Like… | Destination | Access Points
Czech Republic
Bone churches | Marvel at a famous ossuary adorned with more than 40,000 human skeletons in Kutná Hora. | Prague (1 hour by train)
Beer tourism | Bathe in hops at Pilsen’s Purkmistr Beer Spa & Microbrewery or tour the original Pilsner Urquell Brewery. | Prague (1 hour by bus or train)
Spas and thermal springs | Fill your cup at the free-flowing thermal springs, and hike the surrounding hills in Karlovy Vary. | Prague (2 hours by bus)
Castles | Explore the medieval town and 13th-century castle in Český Krumlov. | Prague (3 hours by train or bus)
Cities | Admire a bone church, and then relax at a lively pub or craft cocktail bar in Brno, the Czech Republic’s second-largest city. | Prague (2.5 hours by train); Vienna (1.5 hours)
Wine and châteaux | Explore a château that once housed the aristocracy of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and then taste wine from the surrounding vineyards in Mikulov and Valtice. | Prague (4 hours by train); Vienna (3 hours by train)
Austria
Hiking | Visit a historic castle and hike amid oak and beech forests in the Vienna Woods. | Vienna (20 minutes by train)
Boat rides | Vineyards and castles—best viewed by boat—line the Danube banks in the Wachau Valley. | Vienna (1.5 hours by boat; 1 hour by train)
World War II history | The former concentration camp of Mauthausen is moving and poignant. | Vienna (1 hour by train, followed by 40 minutes on a bus)
The Sound of Music lore | Mozart’s hometown of Salzburg spreads out below the snowcapped Alps and was the setting for the famous musical. | Vienna (2.5 hours by train)
Slovakia
Cities | Bratislava, Slovakia’s capital, has a characteristic Old Town and vibrant cafés. | Vienna (1 hour by train); Budapest (2.5 hours by train)
Hungary
Local artwork | Explore Hungarian village life and then shop for handicrafts in Szentendre. | Budapest (40 minutes by train; 1.5 hours by boat)
Scenery | Visit historic small towns, a medieval citadel, and a looming basilica with international views on the Danube Bend. | Budapest (25 minutes-1 hour by train; 1.5 hours by bus; 40 minutes-1.5 hours by boat)
Beaches | Join the locals at golden lakeside beaches and energetic pubs in Siófok, Lake Balaton. | Budapest (1.5 hours by train)
Wine tasting | Explore a fortress-like castle in Eger, and then duck into wine cellars housed in natural caves in the Valley of the Beautiful Woman. | Budapest (2 hours by train or bus)

BEFORE YOU GO

Passports and Visas

Although travelers from the United States, United Kingdom, Canada, Australia, or New Zealand do not need a visa to enter the EU for visits lasting under 90 days, from 2025 they will need to apply for ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System) (www.etiasvisa.com) before traveling. This is a travel authorization, not a visa, and can be done online with automatic approval given in 95 percent of cases. Applying for ETIAS will cost €7 and will be valid for 3 years, or until your passport expires as your ETIAS is linked to your passport. Once you’ve got this, all you need to enter Europe is a passport that’s valid at least 3 months after your departure from the EU. (A visa is required for travelers from South Africa.) UK travelers should check for new regulations post-Brexit. At the time of writing, citizens from the UK were able to enter visa-free for a period lasting under 90 days, but will be required to register for ETIAS.

Once you arrive in Central Europe, you can usually cross the borders without having your passport or ID checked. However, in some instances, like the Budapest to Vienna train, you may need to show your passport to the border control.

Český Krumlov in winter

Advance Reservations

In general, it’s a good idea to purchase tickets for museums in advance, as you can save a lot of time skipping the lines when you arrive. Usually, you can do this before you set out in the morning—just ask your hotel to print out the ticket before you go or show your smartphone. If you are planning to visit during the Christmas markets, it’s a good idea to book your lodging 2-3 months in advance, and for popular boutique hotels you may need to book as far ahead as 6 months.

Here are some reservations that are worth making before you even get on the plane:

Prague

Special events in the Czech Republic, such as the Prague Spring classical music festival (www.festival.cz) or Karlovy Vary International Film Festival (www.kviff.com) can sell out months in advance. Most sights and experiences do not require reservations, but it can help to book English-language tours for Prague Castle, Český Krumlov’s Baroque Theater, Pilsner Urquell Brewery, and Valtice Château in advance.

Vienna

It’s a good idea to book tours for the Third Man Tour of the Vienna Sewers, which runs one English-language tour a day, and the Spanish Riding School in advance.

Budapest

Book your ticket for the Hungarian Parliament before going. Spots are limited and fill up quickly in high season.

Transportation

Getting to Central Europe

You can get to Central Europe by flying into Prague, Vienna, or Budapest directly, although there are more frequent international flights to nearby destinations like Frankfurt, Munich, or Berlin. Vienna International Airport (VIE; Wien-Flughafen, Schwechat; tel. 01/7007-22233; www.viennaairport.com) has the most long-haul connections out of the three cities, including many cities in the United States and Canada. Václav Havel Airport Prague (PRG; Aviatická; tel. 02/20-111-888; www.prg.aero) has a few seasonal connections to the United States and Canada. Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport (BUD; Budapest; tel. 01/296-9696; www.bud.hu) has a couple of transcontinental flights to Toronto, New York, Chicago, and Philadelphia. If you’re coming from Australia, New Zealand, or South Africa, you will have to change at a larger airport like Dubai or Istanbul before flying on to Central Europe. You can also get direct flights to the main airports in all three cities from London—and you have the option of flying into Bratislava as well.

What’s New

PRAGUE

• Prague Castle is now faster and easier to visit, with no more metal detectors and minimal security checks. The newly reopened Picture Gallery and Deer Moat are worth a visit even for returning travelers.

• Try the Tapster Academy at the new Pilsner Urquell Experience on Wenceslas Square to learn various techniques for pouring the perfect lager.

• Prague’s Letná Park has a new pond and wading area on the west end to help summer visitors stay cool.

• A pedestrian bridge called HolKa now connects Prague’s Holešovice and Karlín neighborhoods, including an off-ramp to riverside recreation on Štvanice island.

VIENNA

• In Vienna, Karlskirche has opened a new viewing terrace on the top of the church with wonderful views over Karlplatz.

• The Austrian Parliament Building has reopened to the public after almost a decade’s renovation, and can now be visited for free on guided tours by visitors.

• The Wien Museum on Karlsplatz reopened in 2023 after a multiyear renovation project. It takes you through Vienna’s history from the Neolithic Age to present.

BUDAPEST

• In Budapest, City Park has undergone quite the makeover, with the House of Music and the Museum of Ethnography opening to the public.

• The area around Buda Castle has also seen a lot of changes, thanks to the Hauszmann Project, which endeavors to reconstruct historic buildings that were once destroyed. Today you can see the Riding Hall and the reconstructed Ottoman Karakas Pasha Tower.

TRANSPORTATION

• RegioJet (www.regiojet.com) has introduced a direct train route between Prague, Vienna, and Budapest, making it easier than ever to zip between the three cities.

Traveling Between Prague, Vienna, and Budapest

Once you reach Central Europe, traveling between the three cities is pretty straightforward. Europe has excellent rail connections, and you can go between Prague, Vienna, and Budapest directly with RegioJet’s Prague-Vienna-Budapest line (www.regiojet.com), which was launched in 2020 and connects the three cities directly by rail. This service runs twice a day and takes 2 hours 40 minutes to go from Budapest to Vienna, and 4.5 hours from Vienna to Prague.

Chain Bridge in Budapest

Since Budapest and Vienna, and Vienna and Prague are fairly close to each other, it’s not worth flying between the cities, which is expensive (and not very eco-friendly), and may take just as much time as the train if you factor in check-in and security checks. This is especially true with the new direct route with RegioJet (www.regiojet.com). If you really have to take a plane, Austrian Airlines (www.austrian.com [URL inactive]) does connect Vienna with both cities. Czech Airlines (www.csa.cz) runs regular flights between Budapest and Prague.

BEST OF Prague, Vienna & Budapest

This 2-week itinerary connects these three cities—and includes day trips beyond them—to offer a unique slice of Central Europe.

Some international travelers will need to go back to Prague at the end of their trip for their flight home. However, if you can book two one-way tickets, it would make more sense to fly back home from Budapest.

Prague

Day 1: Prague

Spend the day in the historical city center, with art nouveau paintings in the morning at the Alfons Mucha Museum, Pinkas Synagogue, and views from Prague’s Old Town Hall Tower. Round out the day with a walk along the Náplavka Boardwalk and a drink at the Letná Beer Garden.

Take a walk along the Náplavka riverbank.

Day 2: Prague

Get an early start at Prague Castle complex to avoid the crowds. Then wander through peaceful Petřín Park and check out the views from the St. Nicholas Bell Tower and Vrtba Gardens. Give your feet a break and treat your stomach to a decadent dinner of Czech cuisine before crossing the Charles Bridge under the stars.

Day 3: Day Trip to Kutná Hora

You can sleep in a little before catching a 50-minute train ride from Praha hl. n. to Kutná Hora hl. n. Start with a visit to the Sedlec Ossuary (often referred to as the “bone church”) and the peaceful Church of the Assumption. Then take the tourist shuttle into the town center for a meal of kulajda soup and Czech cuisine at Staročeská restaurace V Ruthardce.

Walk 5 minutes to the GASK Gallery of the Central Bohemian Region and spend 60-90 minutes browsing the cleverly curated permanent exhibit of Czech contemporary art. Then exit the gallery to admire the Gothic St. Barbara’s Cathedral next door. Grab a glass of local wine from a stand outside the church for a walk down Barborská street lined with statues of saints and overlooking the town vineyards.

St. Barbara’s Cathedral, Kutná Hora

Finish with a leisurely walk through town, where you can stop for a light dinner at Čtyři Sestry or head straight to the Kutná Hora město train station. It’s a 75-minute train ride back to Prague, changing trains once at the Kutná Hora hl. n. train station and arriving at Praha hl. n.

Day 4: Prague Like a Local

For a taste of life outside the city center, start with the Vyšehrad Complex for skyline views, a Gothic church, and an ornate cemetery. Stop for a drink and a snack at the Na Hradbách Beer Garden before digging into local history at the National Monument to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror. Hop on the metro to the Karlín neighborhood for dinner and drinks at a local wine bar.

Day 5: Prague to Vienna

Spend a last morning soaking up the atmosphere in Prague before boarding a 4-hour train to Vienna and settling into your hotel.

What to Eat in Prague, Vienna & Budapest

Your tastebuds are on vacation, too, and you’d be remiss if you didn’t treat them to the unique flavors of these three cities. Don’t miss:

• Svíčková: Thinly sliced sirloin beef in vegetable cream sauce with cranberries, cream, and bread dumplings is a Czech specialty that’s beloved by children and adults alike, with vegetarian versions available.

• Schnitzel: Austria’s specialty is a thin slice of pork or veal coated with breadcrumbs and fried, and usually drizzled with lemon.

• Gulyásleves (Hungarian goulash): Hungary’s signature rich beef soup accented with paprika.

• Sachertorte: Chocolate sponge cake layered with apricot jam and covered in chocolate icing is Vienna’s iconic dessert.

For complete lists of local specialties in Prague, Vienna, and Budapest.

Vienna

Day 6: Vienna

Explore the Hofburg and St. Stephen’s Cathedral, taking time for a quick schnitzel before seeing Klimt’s iconic Kiss at the Belvedere Palace. End your day with sunset views from the Riesenrad, the historic Ferris wheel in the Prater.

Day 7: Vienna

View avant-garde art at the Secession, followed by a bite and browsing at the stalls of the Naschmarkt. After lunch, explore the former Habsburg residence of Schönbrunn Palace.

Day 8: Vienna Like a Local

See some of architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s most spectacular buildings, along with the stunning art nouveau St. Leopold Church by Otto Wagner. Grab a Käsekrainer, a sausage filled with cheese, at one of Vienna’s iconic sausage stands, drink coffee with the locals, and finish out your day with nightlife at a local hidden bar, like Tür 7.

angel statue detail on St. Leopold Church

Day 9: Day Trip to the Wachau Valley

Hop on a train heading to Melk from the Westbahnhof. After an hour’s journey, you will already see the striking orange Melk Abbey on the hill in front of you as you exit the station. Follow the signs up the hill to the abbey and spend a couple of hours exploring, then head down to town for lunch.

Melk Abbey in Wachau Valley

Take the Wachau Cruise ferry departing at 1:50pm from Melk down the Danube through the Wachau Valley. Get off at Dürnstein and hike up to the famous ruins of Dürnstein Castle and then take the bus on to Krems an der Donau. Get the train back to Vienna to Wien Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof (1 hour).

Back in Vienna, cross the Danube Canal over to the Augarten for some late-afternoon sun.

Day 10: Vienna to Budapest

Have one last Melange in one of Vienna’s famous cafés before heading to Wien Hauptbahnhof to take the train to Budapest Keleti. The journey will take just under 3 hours and will bring you right into the heart of Budapest. Take the metro to the city center—line 2 will take you to downtown Pest and over to Buda just north of Castle Hill, whereas line 4 will take you to the southern part of Buda around the trendy Bartók Béla Avenue. If you arrive in Budapest Déli, you can take metro line 2, or if you arrive in Budapest Kelenföld, take metro 4. Get settled in and take a walk along the Danube before grabbing dinner downtown.

Wine Tasting in Central Europe

Wine tasting in Central Europe can be about the experience and atmosphere as much as the wine itself. Sip and savor outdoors in the fresh air in Vienna and Hungary’s Valley of the Beautiful Woman, or head to a grand château in the Czech Republic to sample the best wine the country has to offer.

VIENNA’S HEURIGE (WINE TAVERNS)

Vienna is one of the only European capitals with its own significant wine region, and the best place to sample the local wine is at a famous Heuriger (wine tavern). Most of Vienna’s Heurige back onto the vineyards in the Vienna Woods outside the city center, and also serve hearty Austrian food. They’re popular in summer but really come to life in the fall. If you can’t make it to a Heuriger, visit a Stadtheuriger, which is the in-city version.

HUNGARY’S VALLEY OF THE BEAUTIFUL WOMAN

Take a day trip from Budapest to this crescent-shaped valley, where cellars carved into hillsides serve the red cuvée known as Bull’s Blood. Some cellars have terraces so you can sip out in the sunshine.

THE CZECH REPUBLIC’S NATIONAL WINE CENTER

Tour the grand Valtice Château, then head down to the basement to taste wine. Only the 100 best Czech wines, selected by experts each year, are served here.

Budapest

Day 11: Budapest

Spend your first day in Budapest exploring the Castle District. Take in the views from Fisherman’s Bastion, making time for quirky Hospital in the Rock in the afternoon, followed by a sweet at Budapest’s oldest cukrászda (confectionary). Visit the Hungarian National Gallery in the late afternoon.

Day 12: Budapest

Take in the views from the top of St. Stephen’s Basilica, explore the Postal Savings Bank and Hungarian Parliament, then kick back on a Danube cruise. Spend the end of your day in some of Budapest’s most famous bars.

Danube cruise in Budapest

Day 13: Budapest Like a Local

Head out of the city center and into the Buda Hills, taking a ride on the Children’s Railway, a small railway run by children as a relic left over from Communist times. Take in the views from the Elizabeth Lookout Tower, then spend the day soaking and swimming in Lukács Thermal Bath, the local favorite of all of Budapest’s baths.

Day 14: Day Trip to Lake Balaton

Grab the train from Budapest Déli Pályaudvar train station to Balatonfüred (2 hours). Once you reach Balatonfüred, hop on a bus to Tihany (you will find the buses go from the train station), which will take another 30 minutes. The bus will put you down in the center of the town, so head up to the Benedictine Abbey of Tihany for amazing views over the lake. Stop in at Rege Cukrászda for a coffee and a cake—try the lavender-infused custard cream cake—or grab some lunch in the village. Make sure you pick up some lavender-based gifts before heading back to Balatonfüred. Back in Balatonfüred, drink from the Kossuth Lajos spring before strolling down the Tagore Promenade along the lakeside. Grab something to eat at one of the restaurants before taking the train back to Budapest.

pathway to Lake Balaton in Balatonfüred

Day 15: Goodbye, Central Europe

If your flight home leaves from Prague, you can take the train from Budapest Nyugati Pályaudvar or Déli (or the night train from Budapest Keleti Pályaudvar) back to the Czech capital and head on to the airport from there. Otherwise, head to the Budapest airport for your flight home.

Spectacular Architecture

TOP EXPERIENCE

The Golden Triangle of Central Europe is famed for its stunning architecture. Head to Prague for dramatic Gothic architecture, art nouveau, and Cubism; Budapest for baroque grandeur, intricate art nouveau, and social realism; and Vienna for Habsburg grandeur and Otto Wagner’s stunning art nouveau buildings. You could lose yourself in the details of each building as you wander through the streets of these cities, and remember: Always look up!

Prague

World War II did comparably little damage to the Czech capital compared to its Central European neighbors. This has left centuries of diverse architectural styles, from dark Gothic structures to ornate exteriors and modern masterpieces, standing shoulder to shoulder along Prague’s cobblestoned streets.

• Náměstí Republiky: Simply turn your head while standing on the corner of Na Příkopě street in New Town to survey the architectural mix of the Powder Tower (Gothic), Municipal House (art nouveau), Hybernia Theater (Empire-style), and Czech National Bank (International).

• Basilica of Sts. Peter and Paul: The dark, neo-Gothic silhouette of this Vyšehrad cathedral houses gorgeous art nouveau decor inside its doors.

• Dancing House: This 1990s collaboration between Canadian-American Frank Gehry and Croatian-Czech Vlado Milunić was inspired by and named after Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. The intertwined glass and stone towers beside the Vltava River symbolize Prague’s delicate balance between its proud historical past and developing modern identity.

Dancing House in Prague (known as Tančící dům)

• Žižkov TV Tower: Love it or hate it, Prague’s tallest building gets people talking. Built in the late 1980s, the gray, rocket-like tower dominates the skyline outside of the Old Town.

• Cubist architecture: Cubism as an architectural trend never really took off, but it did make its mark in Prague. Old Town’s Grand Café Orient incorporates right angles into every detail from the coat hooks to the coffee cups, and the world’s only Cubist lamppost stands outside the pub U Pinkasů just off Wenceslas Square.

Outside Prague

• Two ornate ossuaries (often called “bone churches”) in Kutná Hora and Brno manage to create a serene, artistic atmosphere with spaces decorated entirely by human bones.

• For aristocratic elegance, tour the Český Krumlov Castle in South Bohemia or the Valtice Château farther east in South Moravia.

Vienna

Vienna is overwhelmed with baroque and historicist grandeur, punctuated with Secessionist avant-garde buildings for a breath of fresh air.

• St. Leopold Church: This gold-domed church is Otto Wagner’s most spectacular masterpiece. It’s out of the way but worth the architectural pilgrimage.

• Hundertwasserhaus: A contrast to the Biedermeier and Habsburg buildings dotted around Vienna, Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s multicolored house of uneven proportions and playful angles is an architectural breath of fresh air.

the lounge of Hundertwasser Village

• The Secession: The Secession caused a scandal when it opened in 1897, with its “Golden Cabbage” crowning the austere white cube-like structure. Today it’s a symbol of Vienna’s modernism, and still used as a hub of contemporary art.

• MuseumsQuartier: The former imperial stables are now the cutting edge of the avant-garde, not only when it comes to art, but architecture too. Check out the simple lines of the mumok and Leopold museums—both of which are a stark contrast against the grander, more elaborate buildings in downtown Vienna.

• Schönbrunn Palace: The shade of yellow of this imperial summer palace is so iconic it has a color named after it. Schönbrunn Palace is the most opulent and spectacular out of the Habsburg Palaces around Vienna, and worth a day just to revel around its splendorous wings both inside and out.

Outside Vienna

• Blue Church in Bratislava: This church in various hues of blue by Hungarian architect Ödön Lechner is a must-visit in Bratislava if you love art nouveau architecture.

Budapest

Budapest has a lot in common architecturally with its sister cities, but there are a few nuances that set it apart. The iconic buildings found in the Hungarian capital dating from the golden age around the year 1900 have architect Miklós Ybl to thank, who built the Hungarian State Opera House and the finishing touches on St. Stephen’s Basilica. And of course, there’s also the work of Ödön Lechner, the architect who pioneered Hungary’s own brand of art nouveau, blending Orientalism with Hungarian folk art in his style with brightly colored glazed architectural ceramics.

Best Views

PRAGUE

• Petřín Lookout Tower: Climb 299 steps (or take an elevator) to the observation deck of this tower, which is one of the highest viewpoints in the city.

• Vítkov Hill: The courtyard platform outside the National Memorial is an incredible spot to watch the sun set over Prague Castle.

• Vyšehrad: This hilltop castle complex affords views over the Vltava River and Prague’s iconic red rooftops.

VIENNA

• St. Stephen’s Cathedral: Take the elevator up to the top of the north tower or climb the 343 steps in the south tower for views of Vienna’s old inner city beyond the cathedral’s colorful mosaic rooftop.

• Riesenrad: Hop on this iconic 100-year-old Ferris wheel for changing views over Vienna and the Prater.

• Schönbrunn Palace Park’s Gloriette: Hike up to this triumphal hilltop arch in Schönbrunn Palace Park for sweeping vistas over brilliant yellow Schönbrunn Palace and the park’s manicured hedges, with the Vienna Woods and the city rising in the backdrop.

• Danube Tower: Shoot up in the elevator to the top of the highest human-made point in the city for views over the Danube, the Old Town, and the Vienna Woods beyond.

BUDAPEST

• Fisherman’s Bastion: Although any view from Pest’s Castle Hill won’t disappoint, this turreted neo-Gothic lookout platform is Budapest’s most romantic spot.

• St. Stephen’s Basilica: A platform circling this basilica’s iconic domed roof offers views of the inner city and famous landmarks, with some of the basilica towers cutting into the stunning backdrop.

• Gellért Hill: Hike up Gellért Hill for vistas of Budapest’s most iconic sites. Just before you reach the Citadella, there is a small lookout point where you can see the Royal Palace, the Danube, and the Hungarian Parliament all from the same spot.

• Elizabeth Lookout: Take the chairlift, ride the Children’s Railway, or hike to the Elizabeth Lookout, the highest point in Budapest. If the weather conditions are right, you may see a hint of the mountains in Slovakia.

DANUBE BEND

• Visegrád Citadel: It’s worth the hike (or taxi ride) up to the Visegrád Citadel just to see the Danube Bend from above. This is perhaps one of the most spectacular viewing points in the whole of Hungary.

• Hungarian Parliament: This piece of neo-Gothic grandeur on the Danube is one of the city’s most iconic architectural legacies and impressive whether viewed from afar in Buda or up close in Pest.

• Geological Institute of Hungary: One of Lechner’s most spectacular buildings is an exquisite piece of Hungarian art nouveau. From afar, admire its blue-tiled roof topped with globes held up by Atlas statues, and from close up see how many geological references you can spot.

• Gellért Thermal Baths: Unimpressive on the outside, the interior of these thermal baths are a temple to the golden age of Hungary’s spa culture. The baths are lined with mosaics and glazed ceramics in 50 shades of subterranean blue and turquoise.

• Vajdahunyad Castle: Built to celebrate architecture from Hungary and its former territories, Vajdahunyad Castle is a blend of different castles, churches, and palaces from different eras, and worth the visit for an interactive introduction to Hungarian architecture.

Vajdahunyad Castle

• Dohány Street Synagogue: Europe’s largest synagogue (and one of Budapest’s most beautiful buildings) blends neo-Orientalism with elements of a Christian church. Inside, a vast rose window rises above the pews, while parts of the exterior synagogue resemble a mosque, with Moorish-style design.