CONTENTS

Moon Rome Walks

Practical Information

Transportation

Biking

Top 10

Top 10: Film & TV Locations

Top 10: Restaurants

Top 10: Nightlife

Top 10: Sundays

Walks

Walk 1 Via Giulia, Campo De’ Fiori & Piazza Navona

Walk 2 Colosseum & Monti

Walk 3 Pantheon, Ghetto & Aventino

Walk 4 Vaticano, Borgo & Prati

Walk 5 Repubblica, Tridente & Villa Borghese

Walk 6 Ostiense, Testaccio & Trastevere

With More Time

Index

Copyright Page

MOON ROME WALKS

Step off the plane and head straight for the hippest neighborhoods. Find out where you get the best fish or pasta in the city and where to find locally brewed beer on tap. In Moon Rome Walks you’ll find inside information on numerous hidden gems. This way, you can skip the busy shopping streets and stroll through the city at your own pace, taking in a local attraction on your way to the latest and greatest concept stores, as well as neighborhood parks where Romans hang out. Savor every second and make your city trip a truly great experience.

ROME-BOUND!

You’re about to discover Rome! According to legend, Rome was built in 753 BCE, yet almost 2,800 years later the city is still very contemporary. The six walks will take you past all the Roman highlights, from the Campo de’ Fiori to the Colosseum and from Piazza Barberini to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. You can see twenty-eight centuries pass you by, where medieval neighborhoods sprung from ancient remains and where Renaissance palazzos and then Baroque churches were built. Nineteenth-century working-class neighborhoods are given a second life with murals, hip stores, and wonderful restaurants. But the espresso bar remains the espresso bar and tradition is never far away.

ABOUT THIS BOOK

In this book, our local author shares with you the genuine highlights of the city she loves. Discover the city on foot and at your own pace, so you can relax and experience the local lifestyle without having to do much preparation beforehand. That means more time for you. Our walks take you past our favorite restaurants, cafés, museums, galleries, shops, and other notable attractions—places we ourselves like to go. So who knows, you might even run into us.

None of the places mentioned here has paid to appear in either the text or the photographs, and all text has been written by an independent editorial staff.

LOCAL

MAUD NOLTE

CITY

ROME

WORK & ACTIVITIES

MARKETING

Maud emigrated to Rome in December 2020 due to her husband’s work. Her favorite pastime is exploring the city and finding the newest gems. Her Google Maps app is filled to the brim with tips and a to-do list for friends, family, and now also for our readers!

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

The six walks in this book allow you to discover the best neighborhoods in the city. They will take you past museums and notable attractions, but more importantly they’ll show you where to go for good food, drinks, shopping, entertainment, and an overall good time. Check out the map at the front of this book to see which areas of the city the routes will take you through.

Each walk is clearly indicated on a detailed map at the beginning of the relevant chapter. The map also specifies where each place mentioned is located. The color of the number lets you know what type of venue it is (see the key at the bottom of this page). A description of each place is then given later in the chapter.

LEGEND

• >> SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS

• >> SHOPPING

• >> FOOD & DRINK

• >> MORE TO EXPLORE

>> WALK HIGHLIGHT

Without taking into consideration extended stops at any one location, each route will take a maximum of three hours. The approximate distance is indicated at the top of the page before the directions.

Tip: As you walk through the city, it’s easy to focus on just getting from one historical monument to the next, but remember to stop occasionally to look up and absorb your surroundings. It’s a beautiful city!

PRICES

Next to the address and contact details of some listings, we give an idea of what you can expect to spend there. For sights and attractions, we indicate the cost of a regular, full-price adult ticket. For restaurants, unless otherwise stated, the amount given is the average price of a main course.

WHEN IN ROME

Your idea of efficiency will probably be challenged when visiting Rome. So relax and don’t worry too much when you can’t find an up-to-date timetable. There may be a restaurant that opens later than its sign says or a museum that closes sooner than listed.

Most stores close for lunch—roughly between 1:30pm and 3pm—and are closed Monday mornings and all day on Sundays.

If you want to visit churches, keep a modest dress code in mind. Bring a light scarf to cover your shoulders on warm summer days, and make sure bare legs are covered. Skirts or shorts that fall below the knees are usually okay.

Since July 2014, museums in Italy have had a new policy. While a museum ticket used to be free for seniors sixty-five and older, now they must pay full price. To compensate, museum nights are organized twice a year. Major attractions like the Colosseum remain open until 10pm every Friday. And all museums are free the first Sunday of every month. Are you under eighteen or a student under twenty-six? Take your passport or student ID with you when you visit a museum. You’ll get a discount, but only with identification.

EAT LIKE THE ROMANS DO

Eating is a vital part of Italian life. Romans tend to eat a late dinner, and only the most touristy restaurants open their doors before 7:30pm. Lunch is usually from 1pm to 3pm. Avoid restaurants where waiters stand outside praising the menu. Instead, it’s hard to go wrong by choosing a Roman trattoria or osteria. The bill might include an amount for “coperto” or “pane”—a cover charge of about two or three euros per person. Unlike in the US, tipping is not customary, but you can leave one if the service is exceptionally good.

Typical Roman dishes include pasta carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and artichokes. Be sure to try the traditional Roman supplì (a rice ball filled with cheese) and la cicoria (chicory), perhaps the most Roman of all foods (just order a portion—you’ll be glad you did).

Romans don’t eat an elaborate breakfast. They usually have a cappuccino and a cornetto (croissant) at their neighborhood bar. Pay at the checkout first, then take your receipt to the bar to collect your order. You’re in and out in a matter of minutes. You can be served at a table, but you will be charged slightly more.

Aperitivo is the moment of the day dedicated to relaxation: settle down with a drink and a few nibbles after a busy afternoon or before dinner.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

August is the main holiday month for the whole of Italy. Many shops and restaurants will be closed in Rome for vacation (chiuso per ferie). Although this guide doesn’t specify months in the opening hours of each listed place, please keep the month of August in mind when planning your trip. In addition to New Year’s Day, Easter, and Christmas, Italy observes the following public holidays:

January 6 > Epiphany (La Befana)

April 25 > Liberation Day

May 1 > Labor Day

June 2 > Celebration of the Republic (Festa della Repubblica)

August 15 > Assumption of Mary (Ferragosto)

November 1 > All Saints’ Day

December 8 > Immaculate Conception

December 26 > Boxing Day/St. Stephen’s Day (Santo Stefano)

TRANSPORTATION

A taxi from Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino) to the historic city center (within the Aurelian walls) costs €50, and from Ciampino Airport it’s €30. At both airports, there may be unofficial taxi drivers who scam tourists. So, look for the official taxi queue and be sure to get into a white car with a taxi meter. You can also take the shuttle bus (www.sitbusshuttle.it, www.terravision.eu) to Termini station in central Rome. One way on the Leonardo Express train from Fiumicino to Termini costs €14, and to Trastevere station is €8. Rome’s center is not very big, so you can easily explore on foot.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Rome has three subway lines. A and B cross each other at Termini station and pass by most of the major sites. Lines A and C cross at San Giovanni. Normally the subway runs from 5:30am to 11:30pm (Fri & Sat until 1:30am). The bus takes you to all the places the subway doesn’t go, but buses are often late and jam-packed, and they are a favorite spot for pickpockets. Tickets for the subway, bus, tram, and train are €1.50 and are valid for one hundred minutes. On the bus, you must stamp your ticket at the yellow device when you get on. Please note, you can use one ticket to transfer between subway lines on the same trip, but you must stay within fare gates. Tickets are sold at tobacco shops (tabacchi) and subway stations. You can choose from one-day tickets (€7), two-day tickets (€12.50), three-day tickets (€18), and one-week tickets (€24). Night buses run between midnight and 5am. For more information, check out www.atac.roma.it [URL inactive].

A three-day Roma Pass (www.romapass.it) gives you unlimited access to public transportation; it also gives you free admission to two museums. It costs €52, and you can buy it at several tourist information points, all participating museums, and a few subway stations.

TAXIS

Taxis are not allowed to stop on the street and can pick up customers only at a taxi stop. Make sure your driver turns on the meter. If you have luggage, you pay extra, and prices are higher after 10pm and on Sundays and national holidays—starting at €5. You do not have to tip, and you can order a taxi by calling 06-3570.

SCOOTERS

If you’re adventurous, rent a motor scooter (about €40 per day). You need a driver’s license, and you must wear a helmet. Go to Treno e Scooter (rent.trenoescooter.com) on the Piazza del Cinquecento, which is in front of Termini station.