Canadian Rockies

ANDREW HEMPSTEAD

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Contents

Welcome to the Canadian Rockies

Banff National Park

Canmore

Kananaskis Country

Kootenay National Park and Vicinity

Yoho National Park and Vicinity

Jasper National Park

Waterton Lakes National Park

Calgary

Background

Essentials

Resources

Index

List of Maps

Photo Credits

Copyright

Maligne Lake

WELCOME TO THE Canadian Rockies

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

AVOID THE CROWDS

CHOOSE YOUR PARK

IN THE PARKS

BEST OF THE Canadian Rockies

Rockies Road Trip

FAMILY FUN

Camping Out

BEST WILDLIFE VIEWING

OUTDOOR RECREATION

Snowcapped peaks, glaciers and ice fields, multihued lakes, rushing rivers, alpine meadows, and abundant wildlife make the Canadian Rockies a destination that is rivaled by few places in the world. Mother Nature dealt a winning hand to the Canadian Rockies, and governments had the foresight to protect most of the land for all time in a string of contiguous parks—each with its own character but combining to create one massive swath of wilderness.

Outstanding recreational opportunities make the Canadian Rockies unique. Hiking tops the list in popularity. Over 3,000 km (1,860 mi) of hiking trails lace the mountains, ranging from wheelchair-accessible boardwalks to backcountry treks. Biking, canoeing, kayaking, white-water rafting, golfing, and fishing also rank high in summertime popularity, while in winter visitors don skis, snowboards, and snowshoes. An abundance of wildlife can be found in the most unexpected places—an elk grazing on a golf course, a bear feasting on dandelions as you ride overhead on a gondola.

The Canadian Rockies’ parks are filled with tourism infrastructure. The opportunity to vacation in a wilderness setting without sacrificing the amenities of a resort destination is unequaled. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the town of Banff. Its main street is lined with boutiques, restaurants, and hotel rooms serving every budget.

While natural beauty is the main selling point, the growth of towns as tourist resorts makes the Canadian Rockies an ideal destination for all interests and budgets. One visitor may spend the day taking a gondola to a mountain peak, soaking in a European-style spa, and then dining in a fine restaurant; another visitor may strike out early on foot for a remote alpine lake, go white-water rafting in the afternoon, and then return to pitch a tent—two very different experiences of a most singular destination.

Lake O’Hara, Yoho National Park

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

1 Embarking on a spectacular day of hiking from Lake Louise and Moraine Lake.

2 Driving the scenic Icefields Parkway through Banff and Jasper National Parks.

3 Viewing wildlife from bighorn sheep to wolves.

4 Driving through Yoho Valley for views of the Yoho and Kicking Horse Rivers and Takakkaw Falls.

5 Hiking or flying into Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park.

6 Driving over Highwood Pass.

7 Experiencing true wilderness on a backcountry hike in Jasper National Park.

8 Exploring the Columbia Icefield on a hike or bus tour.

9 Hiking to Larch Valley and Helen Lake in Banff National Park.

10 Enjoying Lake O’Hara’s lush alpine landscape.

Planning Your Trip

WHERE TO GO

Banff National Park

Banff is the crown jewel in Canada’s national park system and home to the world’s most photographed lakes. Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and the Icefields Parkway are just some of the park’s awe-inspiring highlights. Biking along the shoreline of Lake Minnewanka, exploring Larch Valley when fall colors are at their height, and hiking in to backcountry Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park may not be as well known, but each activity allows a glimpse of the park you won’t see as often on Instagram feeds.

Canmore

Canmore is the largest population center in the Canadian Rockies, but don’t let that put you off including it in your itinerary. It has transformed itself from a coal-mining town to a hotbed of recreational pursuits. The surrounding mountains are legendary among the climbing fraternity. Hiking trails lead to crystal-clear lakes and mountain peaks. But Canmore should also factor into your vacation plans for more practical purposes, such as the range of excellent restaurants and a choice of comparatively well-priced accommodations.

Kananaskis Country

Pronounced exactly as it reads, this recreational playground lies adjacent to Banff National Park and is handy for Calgarians who flock west to revel in a diverse range of activities or simply to do nothing at all. Along with scenery rivaling that of the national parks, it has top-notch facilities—1,300 km (800 mi) of hiking trails, 30 lakes stocked for fishing, accommodations ranging from tepees to an upscale hotel, and over 2,000 campsites in 31 campgrounds.

Kootenay National Park and Vicinity

Kootenay may not have the famous resort towns of Banff and Jasper, but what it has it does well: vast areas of wilderness, abundant wildlife, and a network of hiking trails that are suited to all levels of fitness. Highway 93 provides access to natural attractions like Marble Canyon and the Paint Pots, as well as phenomena such as Radium Hot Springs, which have been tweaked for human enjoyment. Visitors looking for creature comforts can travel beyond the park to the towns of Radium Hot Springs and Invermere.

Yoho National Park and Vicinity

Thousands of people pass through Yoho, one of the jewels of Canada’s national park system, daily, most traveling along the Trans-Canada Highway on their way to somewhere else. If only they knew what they were missing. Instead of rushing through, detour to Emerald Lake or up the Yoho Valley. Lake O’Hara is not accessible by public road, but this is a good thing. It makes one of the most scenic regions in all of the Canadian Rockies even more special.

paddling on Emerald Lake, Yoho National Park

Jasper National Park

Beyond a simple sign at Sunwapta Pass is a natural attraction that will leave you breathless—the Columbia Icefield, the largest and most accessible glacier field in the Canadian Rockies. Continuing north, the Icefields Parkway eventually reaches the town of Jasper, a smaller, quieter version of Banff. Take a walk along Maligne Canyon or a boat tour on Maligne Lake, hike the trails below Mount Edith Cavell, and head west to Mount Robson Provincial Park, and you’ll be following in the footsteps of millions before you.

Waterton Lakes National Park

The old cliché that good things come in small packages couldn’t be a truer description of Waterton Lakes National Park, separated only by an international border from Glacier National Park in Montana. The scenery is dramatic, ranging from prairie to glaciated peaks and from bird-rich wetlands to high alpine lakes, including beautiful Crypt Lake. If you’re looking for wildlife, Waterton Lakes will exceed your expectations. Mule deer and bighorn sheep are common within the townsite.

Avoid the Crowds

The Canadian Rockies can get very crowded in summer. The most popular tourist attractions are sometimes overwhelmed with visitors, parking is impossible to find, and every campsite and hotel room may be booked well in advance.

• Visit during a month on either side of peak season—in June or September—to enjoy fewer crowds and discounted accommodations, but with the same great hiking that summer visitors enjoy. Be aware that many high-alpine lakes remain frozen through June and you’ll likely miss out on wildflowers.

• Rising early is the best way to avoid the crowds throughout the Canadian Rockies. Parking fills up before dawn at the most popular attractions. (Use public transit to avoid the parking hassle altogether.) Try to arrive early whenever you can, whether you’re planning on a lake cruise or hoping to snag an outdoor table at a café.

• Parks Canada and local municipalities have implemented many programs to deal with traffic and parking problems. Use the public transit provided through the south end of Banff National Park. Leave your vehicle at your lodge or campground and ride or catch a bus into town. Two helpful websites are www.banffparking.ca and www.explorethepark.ca.

• Most visitors will focus their time only on the most famous parks, Banff and Jasper, but there are many lesser-known places that are equally as scenic. Kananaskis Country, for example, has alpine lakes, glaciers, and an extensive network of hiking trails. Escaping the crowds is easy if you are experienced in backcountry hiking (think Skoki Lodge near Lake Louise or the Rockwall Trail in Kootenay) or have the budget to include flying into Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park.

Calgary

Yahoo! Welcome to Cowtown, gateway to the Canadian Rockies, where in 1875 a North West Mounted Police detachment set up camp and today you’ll find a world center for the oil and gas industry, with ultramodern skyscrapers going up faster than any town planner ever imagined. While oil drives the economy, you’ll experience a different type of energy during the second week of July, when the Calgary Stampede transforms the city into party central, Western style.

WHEN TO GO

While the Canadian Rockies and Calgary can be visited year-round, there are two influxes of visitors—one in the warmer months and the other in winter.

Summer

Summer (late June-mid-Sept.) is definitely high season, especially the school holiday period of July through August and, in Calgary, the second week of July (Calgary Stampede). Simply said, the weather is unbeatable. The season is dominated by long, warm—and sometimes hot—days, everything is open, and there’s plenty to do and see. Crowded parks, higher prices, and difficulty securing reservations are the downside of summer travel.

Spring and Fall

Late spring and early fall are excellent times to visit the Canadian Rockies for two reasons: You’ll avoid the worst of the crowds, and you’ll save money.

Spring (mid-Apr.-late June) is notable for long days of sunlight (in late June it stays light until after 10pm) and a sense of optimism for the upcoming warm months.

Fall (mid-Sept.-Nov.) can be delightful, especially September, with lingering warm temperatures and a noticeable decrease in crowds immediately after the long weekend (at the beginning of the month). While fall colors in general lack the intensity of those in the eastern provinces and New England, larches turn a brilliant yellow throughout subalpine areas of Banff and Kananaskis in mid- to late September.

Moraine Lake

Choose Your Park

With the abundance of outdoor recreation, it can be hard to choose which parks to put at the top of your list. Use this table to build your own itinerary based on your favorite activities.

Park
Best Known For
Combine With

Banff National Park
Backpacking: Choose between the Shadow Lake Lodge or head into the Skoki Valley, which is dotted with high alpine lakes.

Historic sites: While natural beauty gets most of the attention, the town of Banff has an interesting and colorful history, which is showcased at three local museums and dozens of heritage buildings scattered around town.

Winter activities: Visit magical Lake Louise in winter when the lake itself is transformed into a skating rink, sleigh rides run along the lakeshore, and the lifts of one of Canada’s largest ski resorts fill with skiers and snowboarders.

Camping in Kananaskis Country. While the area may not be as well known as adjacent Banff National Park, more than 30 campgrounds in all the most scenic locations make this an ideal destination for pitching a tent. Or, rock climbing in Canmore, where you’ll find easy pitches at Grassi Lakes and Grotto Canyon, as well as a climbing school.

Kootenay National Park
Scenic drive: Take your time along Highway 93, enjoying the views and short self-guided hikes to natural wonders like Marble Canyon and the Paint Pots.
Soaking in Radium Hot Springs. Or, enjoying the beaches of Lake Windemere, which are filled with sunseekers during the short summer season.

Yoho National Park
Hiking: Plan ahead by making bus reservations to Lake O’Hara, which has a concentration of hiking trails leading to alpine lakes and through meadows filled with wildflowers.

Rafting: Thrills and spills abound on the Kicking Horse River, which flows over easy rapids before hitting the heart-racing falls of a narrow canyon.

Waterfalls: Driving into the Yoho Valley, you’ll find Takakkaw Falls, one of the highest in Canada, at the end of the road. Continue on foot up into the valley to reach Laughing and Twin Falls.

Skiing or biking at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort near Golden.

Jasper National Park
Biking: The Icefields Parkway between Lake Louise and Jasper is one of the world’s most scenic drives, which makes it appealing to thousands of cyclists each summer.

Fishing: The deep waters of Maligne Lake are home to massive trout. Even if you don’t have equipment, local guides are available, or you can just rent a boat and tackle and rely on your own skills.

Horseback riding: Trail rides along the Pyramid Benchlands or from the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge will give you a taste of this traditional form of transportation.

Backcountry hiking in the Tonquin Valley or Mount Robson Provincial Park.

Waterton Lakes National Park
Scenic drive: The best wildlife viewing can be found along the Red Rock Parkway, a 13-km (8-mi) road through prairies and mountains.

Hiking: For a memorable day hike, head to Crypt Lake, whose trailhead is only accessible by boat.

Diving: Despite being far from the ocean, the park offers visitors the chance to dive to a sunken ship in Emerald Bay.

Taking a day hike to Forum Lake and Wall Lake in Akamina-Kishinena Provincial Park.

Winter

Local ski resorts begin opening for the winter (Dec.-mid-Apr.) in mid-November. The best powder snow conditions are January-February, although for enthusiasts looking for a combination of good snow and warmer weather, March is an excellent time of year to visit.

BEFORE YOU GO

Passports and Visas

To enter Canada, a passport is required of citizens and permanent residents of the United States. For further information, see the website https://travel.state.gov. For current entry requirements to Canada, check the Citizenship and Immigration Canada website (www.cic.gc.ca).

All other foreign visitors must have a valid passport and may need a visa or visitors permit depending on their country of residence and the vagaries of international politics. At present, visas are not required for citizens of the United States, British Commonwealth, or Western Europe. The standard entry permit is for six months, and you may be asked to show onward tickets or proof of sufficient funds to last you through your intended stay.

Transportation

Visitors to the Canadian Rockies have the option of arriving by road, rail, or air. The main gateway city for flights from North America and Europe is Calgary, while Vancouver is also a popular starting point. From these two cities, as well as points across Canada, scheduled train and bus services pass through the region year-round.

Driving, whether it be your own vehicle or a rental car, is by far the best way to get around the Canadian Rockies, although most towns are served by bus.

Park Passes and Reservations

Unless you’re passing directly through, passes are required for entry into all five national parks covered in this guide. Monies collected from these passes go directly to Parks Canada for park maintenance and improvements.

A National Parks Day Pass is adult $11, senior $9.50, children free, up to a maximum of $22 per vehicle. It is interchangeable among parks and is valid until 4pm the day following its purchase.

An annual Discovery Pass, good for entry into all of Canada’s national parks and national historic sites for one year from purchase, is adult $75.25, senior $64.50, to a maximum of $151.25 per vehicle. Discovery Passes can be purchased online at www.parksorders.ca, at park gates, at the tollbooths at either end of the Icefields Parkway, at all park information centers, and at campground fee stations.

skiing at Lake Louise Ski Resort

Popular destinations like Lake Louise require shuttle reservations made in advance through the Parks Canada website. For a smooth reservation process, be sure to set up a Parks Canada account before the reservation window opens.

A Kananaskis Conservation Pass is required for entry into Kananaskis Country. These cost $15 per vehicle per day, or $90 for an annual pass. The easiest way to purchase a pass is online (https://conservationpass.alberta.ca), although they are also sold at visitor centers throughout Kananaskis Country.

IN THE PARKS

Visitor Centers

Each national park has at least one visitor center, as do surrounding communities detailed in this book. There is also an information desk at the Arrivals level of Calgary International Airport. The main park centers are:

• Banff Visitor Centre (224 Banff Ave.; 403/762-1550; 8am-8pm daily mid-May-Aug., 9am-5pm daily Sept.-mid-May) is in downtown Banff.

• Kootenay National Park Visitor Centre (7556 Main St. E., Radium Hot Springs; 250/347-9331 or 888/347-9331; 9am-5pm daily May-mid-Oct.) is perfectly located for northbound travelers entering Kootenay National Park.

• Yoho National Park Visitor Centre (Trans-Canada Hwy., Field; 250/343-6783; 9am-5pm daily May-mid-Oct., until 6pm daily in summer) is in the heart of Yoho National Park.

• Jasper Park Information Centre (500 Connaught Dr.; 780/852-6176; 9am-7pm daily mid-May-mid-Sept., 9am-5pm daily mid-Sept.-mid-May) is in a historic building overlooking a park in downtown Jasper.

• Waterton Lakes Visitor Centre (404 Cameron Falls Dr.; 403/859-5133; 9am-5pm daily early May-June, 8am-7pm daily July-Aug., 8am-4pm daily Sept.-mid-Oct.) is in the heart of the village.

Where to Stay

The Canadian Rockies offer accommodations to suit all budgets, including campgrounds, hostels, motels, and high-end resorts. Regardless of your budget, it is very important to reserve well ahead for summer travel, especially in Banff, Jasper, and Waterton Lakes.

Getting Around

The easiest way to get around is in your own vehicle or a rental. Vehicles can be rented from all gateway airports, as well as in Banff, Jasper, and Canmore. Banff and Canmore have excellent public transit, with buses linking the two communities as well as reaching popular tourist areas such as the campgrounds on Tunnel Mountain and the gondola base on Sulphur Mountain. Day tours in Banff and Jasper hit all the highlights, and a summer bus service links Banff and Jasper.

BEST OF THE Canadian Rockies

This itinerary combines the best of the best—the best-known natural highlights, the hikes you won’t want to miss, and the most scenic drives. This itinerary fits well with a visit in spring, summer, or fall. Understand that you will not see all of the Canadian Rockies in one week, but you won’t miss out on anything either. You’ll head home feeling satisfied.

Banff

Day 1

Fly into Calgary, pick up a rental car, and head for the mountains. After reaching Banff and settling into your accommodation, spend the afternoon exploring the town. Stop in at the information center and walk along the Bow River to the Fairmont Banff Springs.

Day 2

Head to Lake Minnewanka for the morning’s first tour boat departure with Banff Lake Cruise, which will take you to the far reaches of the lake, passing interesting features like Devil’s Gap. After your cruise is complete, drive the short distance to Two Jack Lake. For lunch, try to get the prime picnic location on a forested outcrop jutting into the lake.

Take the Trans-Canada Highway to Castle Junction and loop back down the Bow Valley Parkway to enjoy the short hike up Johnston Canyon. Then continue northwest to the village of Lake Louise, where you’ll spend the night. It’s worth a late-afternoon drive up to the lake itself to watch the last rays of light hitting the water.

Banff and Yoho

Day 3

Rise early to catch a shuttle to Lake Louise, one of the world’s best photo opportunities. The early-morning sky makes for some great pictures. Catch the connector shuttle to nearby Moraine Lake, which is surrounded by spectacular mountains and glaciers. From here you can hike into Larch Valley.

Continue on to Yoho National Park, where you can spend the afternoon driving through the steep-sided Yoho Valley and visiting turquoise-colored Emerald Lake. Spend the night at the Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, near the town of Golden.

Day 4

Spend the day white-water rafting down the Kicking Horse River. Spend the night at Truffle Pigs Lodge in Field, dining at the renowned in-house restaurant.

Day 5

Head north along the Icefields Parkway, stopping at the Crowfoot Glacier overlook, beautifully blue Bow Lake, and the high lookout platform above Peyto Lake. The hike to Helen Lake is a good way to break up the journey. Bunk down for the night in Jasper.

Jasper

Day 6

After waking up in Jasper, take a boat tour on Maligne Lake to photogenic Spirit Island. As a general rule, the lake is less windy in the morning and there are fewer crowds. After lunch, head west to Mount Robson Provincial Park and view the park’s namesake peak as the sun sets. Return to Jasper for the night.

Spirit Island on Maligne Lake

Day 7

The Icefields Parkway is dotted with scenic pullouts and day-use areas. You will have stopped at many of them on the way north, but the Columbia Icefield and Columbia Icefield Skywalk were left for this return trip. Here, choose between an Ice Explorer tour onto the glacier and the hike to Wilcox Pass and its sweeping view of the glacier-filled valley. Continue south to Canmore and make dinner reservations at Tavern 1883.

Calgary

Day 8

It’s about an hour’s drive from Canmore to Calgary. Allow time to visit Calgary’s Canada Olympic Park before heading out to the airport for your flight home.

Rockies Road Trip

This two-week road trip, best suited for the warmer months, gives you the opportunity to explore beyond the core national parks and also include major Calgary attractions.

Banff

Day 1

MINIMAL DRIVING

Arrive in Banff for a two-night stay. Explore the town and start your mountain journey with an easy walk—maybe along the Bow River to the Fenlands loop and through to Vermilion Lakes, where birdlife, such as Canada geese, is prevalent.

Day 2

LESS THAN 80 KM/50 MI, 1 HR

Expand your exploration of the town to include Lake Minnewanka and the Bow Valley Parkway, which passes through a corridor filled with wildlife. Take the Banff Gondola up Sulphur Mountain to stroll the boardwalk or book a tee time at the hallowed Banff Springs Golf Course.

Sulphur Mountain Boardwalk

Kananaskis Country

Day 3

100 KM/62 MI, 1.5 HR

Spend the day exploring Kananaskis Country, where wildlife is abundant. At Canoe Meadows, just off Highway 40, kayakers often put on quite a show in the rapids of the Kananaskis River.

Waterton

Day 4

270 KM/168 MI, 4 HRS

If you leave Kananaskis Village early, you should arrive in Waterton Lakes National Park for a late lunch, even with a stop at Highwood Pass. In Waterton, choose between a moderately strenuous hike to scenic alpine Bertha Lake or afternoon tea at the Prince of Wales Hotel.

Day 5

NO DRIVING

Take a border-crossing tour boat to Goat Haunt, Montana, which is at the far south end of Upper Waterton Lake and surrounded by steep mountains that drop precipitously into the water. Keen hikers will want to give the boat trip a miss and instead visit Crypt Lake, which is reached along a steep trail that includes passing through a natural tunnel. Spend another night in Waterton. You may see deer or bighorn sheep on an evening walk through the village.

Day 6

400 KM/250 MI, 6 HRS

This is the longest day on the road, around six hours of driving to the lakeside town of Invermere, where the best beach is within walking distance of downtown. The trip can be broken up with a detour to Whiteswan Lake Provincial Park, where hot springs have been left in their natural state.

Kootenay National Park

Day 7

LESS THAN 50 KM/31 MI, 1 HR

Drive north to Radium Hot Springs and Kootenay National Park. Pick a local hike that suits your level of fitness (Sinclair Creek/Juniper Trail is a good choice), then rest your weary bones in the hot springs.

Yoho National Park

Day 8

160 KM/100 MI, 2 HRS

It’s a two-hour drive between Radium Hot Springs and Golden, but there’s no hurry as the Kicking Horse Mountain Resort gondola doesn’t begin running until 9:30am. Arrive at your Yoho National Park accommodation in the early afternoon and take a stroll around Emerald Lake, where the water is an impossibly rich turquoise.

Day 9

100 KM/62 MI, 1.5 HRS

If you’ve done your planning thoroughly, you’ll be booked on the shuttle bus to Lake O’Hara in the morning. This is the premier hiking region in all of the Canadian Rockies. It’s possible to hit the highlights (Lake Oesa, Opabin Plateau, and Lake McArthur) in a single day. Spend the night at a lodge along the Bow Valley Parkway.

Banff National Park

Day 10

50 KM/31 MI, 1 HR

Rise early to catch a Parks Canada shuttle to Moraine Lake. Climb onto the rock pile beyond the parking lot for the most magnificent lake-and-mountain view you could possibly imagine. The rest of the day is yours to spend in and around Lake Louise.

Lake Louise

Jasper National Park

Day 11

230 KM/143 MI, 4 HRS

The earlier you hit the road for Jasper, the better your chances of spotting wildlife along the Icefields Parkway. Stop at Bow Lake and Peyto Lake to take a selection of classic Canadian Rockies photographs. Then allow three hours at the Columbia Icefield to take in the displays, ride a bus out onto the glacier, and visit the Columbia Icefield Skywalk.

Day 12

350 KM/217 MI, 5 HRS

Hike along the top of steep-sided Maligne Canyon and drive out to Maligne Lake for more magical mountain views (maybe hike into the Bald Hills if time allows). Make either Mount Robson Provincial Park or Mount Edith Cavell your main detour on the leisurely southbound journey back through Banff National Park to Canmore.

Canmore

Day 13

MINIMAL DRIVING

In Canmore, do some shopping, play a round of golf, take a helicopter ride, or mountain bike on the trails of the Canmore Nordic Centre.

Day 14

130 KM/81 MI, 1.5 HRS

Leave the mountains behind and head to Calgary, making time to take in the Olympic legacy that is Canada Olympic Park before heading to the airport. If your flight doesn’t leave until later in the day, also plan downtown stops at Calgary Tower and the Glenbow Museum.

Family Fun

The focus of your vacation in the Canadian Rockies should be the outdoors, even with children. Mix up the places you think the children should see with places you know they will enjoy. If you’re traveling to the Canadian Rockies as a family, renting a vehicle will make your holiday more enjoyable—upgrade to a minivan for everyone’s sanity. With those tips in mind, here are some favorite family-friendly places and activities.

BANFF NATIONAL PARK

• Banff Park Museum: Learn about local wildlife at this downtown museum.

• Louise Lakeshore Trail: A walking path for all ages along one of the world’s most beautiful lakes.

• Lake Agnes Trail: Families with active children can take this hike to a historic teahouse and reward themselves with sweet treats.

CANMORE

• Elevation Place: This indoor playground for adventurous kids is the perfect place for children to swim and climb.

KANANASKIS COUNTRY

• Mount Lorette Ponds: Try fishing at these shallow ponds, which are stocked with rainbow trout.

KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK

• Radium Hot Springs: Take a soak in these outdoor mineral pools.

GOLDEN

• Kicking Horse Mountain Resort: Ride this gondola for sweeping views only mountaineers usually enjoy.

JASPER NATIONAL PARK

• Columbia Icefield: Just riding in an oversized Ice Explorer will excite most children, but the real fun is in bumping along over a glacier.

• Maligne Lake: A safe, enjoyable way to experience this beautiful lake is to jump aboard a tour boat.

CALGARY

• Telus Spark Science Centre: It’s easy to spend a full day in this modern kid-oriented facility.

Camping Out

Camping out is a great way to experience the Canadian Rockies, and you’ll save some money to boot. This itinerary works best in the warmer months and for both tent campers and those who have their own or a rented RV (recreational vehicle). It’s important to remember that not all campgrounds have powered sites, and that you will need reservations at most campgrounds.

Day 1

Turn onto Highway 40 as you travel west from Calgary to Kananaskis Country. Spend the night in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park.

Day 2

Plan a leisurely hike to Rawson Lake (pack a fishing pole). Head north, traveling via Spray Valley Provincial Park if you’re not put off by unpaved road. In Banff, stay at a Tunnel Mountain campground if you want to walk to town; otherwise, head to the much nicer Two Jack Lakeside campground.

camping at Two Jack Lakeside Campground, Banff National Park

Day 3

Beat the traffic by rising early for the drive to Lake Louise. Stop at Johnston Canyon for a short walk to a tall waterfall. Check in to the Lake Louise campground, then spend the afternoon visiting local attractions.

Day 4

Rise early to catch a shuttle to Moraine Lake, then begin the trip to Jasper along the Icefields Parkway. Choose to camp en route (Waterfowl Lakes is my favorite overnight stop) or continue to one of the campgrounds on the south side of the town of Jasper.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Best Wildlife Viewing

Where’s the best place to view animals? This is probably the most common question posed by visitors to the Canadian Rockies. While a precise answer is impossible—this isn’t a zoo, after all—noting a couple of general rules of thumb can make your chances of observing animals more likely.

Spring is the best time for viewing wildlife from the roadside; larger mammals come down into the valleys in winter and stay through spring, moving back up to higher elevations as the snow melts. Mammals are most active at dawn and dusk, which are great times of day for scanning the landscape for movement.

In most cases, all species listed are widespread in their particular habitat throughout the Canadian Rockies. The locations listed for each species are simply the ones that will give you the best chance of seeing that species.

BANFF NATIONAL PARK

• Elk: around the outskirts of the town of Banff

• Grizzly bear: Lake Louise Sightseeing Gondola

• Marmot: Helen Lake Trail

• Wolf: Bow Valley Parkway

CANMORE

• Cougar: forested valleys around Canmore

KANANASKIS COUNTRY

• Beaver: Gooseberry Campground

• Moose: Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

• White-tailed deer: Sheep River Valley

KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK

• Bighorn sheep: Radium Hot Springs, just outside the park

• Black bear: Red Rock Parkway

YOHO NATIONAL PARK

• Porcupine: Yoho Valley

JASPER NATIONAL PARK

• Coyote: along Highway 16, northeast of the town of Jasper

• Elk: around the outskirts of the town of Jasper

• Mountain goat: Icefields Parkway south of Athabasca Falls

WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK

• Bison: Bison Paddock

• Mule deer: Waterton townsite

Day 5

Spend the morning exploring Jasper attractions like Mount Edith Cavell or Maligne Lake, then head back through Lake Louise to Yoho National Park and set up camp for the night.

Day 6

Drive to Golden and enjoy lunch at the top of Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. Head south to Radium Hot Springs. Stay at one of the commercial campgrounds near town or continue on into Kootenay National Park and set up camp there.

Day 7

Before returning to Calgary, make a stop at the Paint Pots, one of Kootenay National Park’s most unusual natural wonders.

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Outdoor Recreation

With millions of acres of protected wilderness, the Canadian Rockies are an outdoor lover’s fantasy come true. You’ll find outstanding hiking opportunities—from easy strolls to overnight backpacks—in each park, but while hiking is the major draw, you can also enjoy a wide variety of water sports, fishing, golfing, and in winter skiing and snowboarding.

Hiking

The Canadian Rockies are renowned for hiking—in fact, many visitors plan their entire vacation around hiking. Here is a list of personal favorites, each of which can easily be completed in a day by anyone with a reasonable level of fitness.

BANFF NATIONAL PARK

• Best wildflowers: Sunshine Meadows

• Best lunch hike: Lake Agnes

• Best fall colors: Larch Valley

• Best view of a glacier cirque: Helen Lake

CANMORE

• Best panoramic view: Ha Ling Peak

• Best interpretive trail: Grassi Lakes

KANANASKIS COUNTRY

• Best lookout view: Prairie View

• Best fishing hike: Rawson Lake

KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK

• Best glacier view: Stanley Glacier

YOHO NATIONAL PARK

• Best short hikes: Lake O’Hara region

• Best moraine view: Iceline

JASPER NATIONAL PARK

• Best icefields view: Wilcox Pass

• Best lookout views: Bald Hills

• Best view of a glacier cirque: Cavell Meadows

WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK

• Best challenge: Crypt Lake

Water Sports

Paddling and Rafting

Most water throughout the Canadian Rockies is too chilly for swimming (exceptions are the lakes around Jasper), but there are plenty of other opportunities for water sports that will keep you dry. It’s possible to canoe, kayak, or paddleboard on most lakes, while more experienced paddlers can run the Bow or Athabasca Rivers. Commercial white-water rafting companies operate throughout the region (the Kicking Horse River brings the most excitement).

BANFF NATIONAL PARK

Canoeing, kayaking, and stand-up paddleboarding are great ways to explore the waterways of the mountains that are otherwise inaccessible—places such as Vermilion Lakes, where beavers, elk, and a great variety of birds can be appreciated from water level. Two Jack Lake is another great spot with a nearby campground. Visitors to Lake Louise can rent canoes from the boathouse.

JASPER NATIONAL PARK

Adventurous rafters should sign up for a run down the Sunwapta River, best known for its boulder-strewn rapids.

YOHO NATIONAL PARK

Kicking Horse River is the most popular river for rafting trips, with several outfitters offering half- and full-day trips.

Fishing

Larger low-elevation lakes are renowned for their lake trout, and adventurous anglers chase cutthroat trout in high alpine lakes. Note there are different license requirements for fishing in the national parks and the waters of Alberta and British Columbia.

BANFF NATIONAL PARK

Lake Minnewanka is home to the mountains’ largest fish—lake trout—as well a variety of other trout and whitefish.

JASPER NATIONAL PARK

Maligne Lake has one of the most accessible fishing centers, with boats and tackle for rent and guides offering their services.

Winter Adventures

If you enjoy winter sports, you’ll love traveling to the Canadian Rockies between December and April. Instead of hiking and canoeing, you’ll be skiing and snowshoeing in a magical mountain setting purified by snow. After a long day of winter sports, there’s no better way to soothe sore muscles than soaking in one of the region’s many hot springs or relaxing around a roaring fire.

Skiing

BANFF NATIONAL PARK

Banff National Park holds three major ski resorts—Lake Louise, Sunshine Village, and Norquay.

KANANASKIS COUNTRY

Kananaskis Country’s Nakiska was developed for the downhill events of the 1988 Winter Olympic Games. Today it serves mainly a regional market, offering runs for all skill levels.

JASPER NATIONAL PARK

Marmot Basin is renowned for its uncrowded slopes and sweeping views.

CALGARY

At Calgary’s Canada Olympic Park, you can ski in the shadow of the ski jumps used during the 1988 Winter Olympic Games.

Cross-Country Skiing

CANMORE

The Canmore Nordic Centre is laced with cross-country trails, and it hosts world-class competitions through the winter months.

Ice Walking

One of the most unusual winter activities in the Canadian Rockies is an ice walk to a frozen waterfall. Guided tours operate in Banff’s Johnston Canyon and Jasper’s Maligne Canyon.