Running gutter drain underground is a highly effective way to manage water around your home's foundation. This method involves directing roof runoff away from problem areas, preventing erosion, protecting your landscaping, and reducing the risk of basement leaks. While the process requires careful planning and digging, the long-term benefits to your property's structural integrity and value are substantial.
Planning Your Underground Downspout Route
Before breaking ground, take the time to map out your discharge strategy. The primary goal is to move water far enough away from your foundation so that it does not simply pool next to the underground pipe. Consider these key factors during the planning phase.
Understanding Local Codes and Utility Lines
Contact your local municipality to check if there are any regulations regarding where you can discharge stormwater. Some areas have restrictions on connecting downspouts to municipal sewer systems, as this can overwhelm treatment plants during heavy storms. Furthermore, always call 811 (or your local utility marking service) at least 48 hours before you plan to dig to avoid hitting gas, water, or electrical lines.
Calculating the Slope
A successful underground system relies on gravity. You will need a consistent downward slope for the entire length of the pipe. A standard recommendation is a slope of 1/8 inch per foot. This ensures water flows steadily toward the exit point without the pipe needing to be excessively deep or creating a pooling spot.
Selecting Materials and Tools
Using the correct materials is essential for durability and longevity. Avoid using thin, flexible corrugated pipe for the underground section, as it can collapse under the weight of soil and machinery. Instead, opt for rigid, perforated PVC drainage pipe, which is strong and allows water to enter from the sides.
Required Components
- Perforated PVC drain pipe (usually 3 or 4 inches in diameter)
- Solid PVC pipe for the downspout adapter and exit section
- PVC primer and cement for secure, watertight joints
- Geotextile fabric and gravel for proper bedding and filtering
- A trench digger or post-hole auger
- A level and measuring tape
Digging the Trench
With the path marked, it's time to excavate. The trench needs to be wide enough to work comfortably and deep enough to accommodate the pipe with a layer of gravel beneath it and a layer of soil on top. Depth is generally the most challenging part of this project.
Trench Specifications
Typically, you want the top of the pipe to be buried at least 6 to 12 inches below the frost line in colder climates to prevent the ground from freezing and pushing the pipe upward. In warmer zones, a depth of 6 to 12 inches is usually sufficient to keep the pipe protected from surface damage. The trench itself should be about 6 inches wider than the diameter of the pipe to allow for gravel placement.
Installing the Downspout Adapter
You cannot simply shove a rigid pipe into a flexible downspout. You need a transition piece called a downspout adapter. These are often available in rubber or flexible plastic designs that clamp onto the downspout and feature a barb for the PVC pipe.
The Connection Process
Place the adapter at the spot where you plan to transition from the open downspout to the underground piping. Secure it tightly with hose clamps or the provided fasteners. From this point, you will run a solid piece of PVC pipe from the adapter down into the trench. This solid section ensures the downspout water is concentrated into a single point rather than seeping out of a perforated joint near the roof.
Laying the Pipe and Gravel
Once the trench is dug and the adapter is connected, prepare the pipe bedding. Lay a few inches of gravel in the bottom of the trench to provide a stable, level base. Place the perforated PVC pipe on top, ensuring the perforations are facing downward. This orientation allows water that seeps into the pipe from the surrounding soil to enter easily.
Proper Encapsulation
As you cover the pipe, you must encase it in gravel. Pour gravel into the trench on the sides and top of the pipe until you reach the proper depth. After the gravel, cover the trench with the excavated soil. The gravel acts as a filter, preventing soil from clogging the holes in the pipe, while the soil provides protection and helps support the trench walls.
Creating the Exit Point
The final and most critical step is the exit termination. The water must be released in a controlled manner where it can dissipate safely. A simple open pipe end just resting on the soil is not sufficient, as the force of the water will eventually wash away the dirt and clog the pipe.
Discharge Solutions
Create a dry well, which is a pit filled with large rocks that collects water and allows it to slowly seep into the surrounding soil. Alternatively, use a PVC elbow to discharge water into a splash block, which is a concrete or metal tray that directs the flow away from the foundation. You can also extend the pipe to a lower part of the yard or into a storm drain if permitted, ensuring the exit point is lower than the gutter line.
