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V sredo, 6. septembra se po končani službi odpeljem na krajši oddih v Dalmacijo. Pot preko Žužemberka, Vinice in naprej po hrvaških avtocestah je minila brez zapetljajev. Po prihodu v dalmatinski kraj Promajna se nastanim v apartmaju družine Bašković. Zgledno urejen, čist in dobro opremljen apartma ima tudi dobro klimatsko napravo in zelo dober WI-FI signal. Po namestitvi se po napotkih gostiteljev odpravim na večerjo v lokal ob obali. Preprosta domača konoba Azimut se nahaja dobrih 200 metrov izven vasi. Na jedilniku nima veliko jedi, a tisto kar pripravijo je zares izvrstno. Izbral sem tunin zrezek. Ta večer je bila v vasi prava dalmatinska fešta. Številne stojnice s hrano in pijačo ter živa glasba.
Naselje Promajna in istoimenski zalivček ležita v vznožju gorskega masiva Biokovo ob Jadranski magistrali med mestoma Baška voda in Makarska. Kraj Promajna je nastal v 17. stoletju, kot naselje ribičev in kmetov. Svoje ime dolguje viru življenja - Soncu. Naselje je bilo prvič zabeleženo leta 1674. Vendar pa veliko število arheoloških najdb (keramika, amfore, novci, tegule itd.) govori o življenju na tem območju že od 2. stoletja pnš. Grobna najdba zlatega nakita (biserna ogrlica, zapestnice in prstan) je ena najpomembnejših poznoantičnih najdb na območju Makarskega primorja. Naselje odlikuje dolga prodnata plaža v zavetju borovcev, prozorno in toplo morje, čist zrak in ohranjeno okolje. V zadnjih desetletjih je bilo v mestu zgrajenih veliko zasebnih hiš, ki ponujajo kakovostne sobe in apartmaje, naselje pa ima okoli 400 prebivalcev. Leta 2000 je bila zgrajena in blagoslovljena cerkev Svih svetih.
HRVAŠKA: Makarska riviera - september 2023
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Za večerjo si izberem Restoran Tribigrad, kjer si naročim porcijo školjk. Dagnje so bile pripravljene na zanimiv način, v ponvi. Kasneje v lokalu na plaži, ob vrčku piva, spremljam tekmo nogometašev Slovenije proti ekipi Severne Irske.
Ponoči se je ohladilo tako, da je petkovo jutro bilo prav prijetno. Ob zajtrku v apartmaju spremljam prvo polfinalno tekmo svetovnega prvenstva v košarki v kateri Srbija premaga Kanado, nato pa se odpeljem v mesto Makarska.
Prvi prebivalci na območju današnje Makarske so bili Iliri, ki so že v 4. stoletju ustanovili naselje z imenom Muccurum. Tega so sredi 6. stoletja porušili Avari. Ko so kraj obnovili, je postal pomembno oporišče Neretvanov v bojih proti Benečanom. In ravno 18. septembra 887 so Neretvani, v pomorski bitki pred Makarsko porazili Beneško Republiko. Ime Makarska se prvič omenja v listini iz 16. stoletja, v času turških osvajanj. Turki so se v Makarski zadrževali med leti 1499 in 1646. Po turški vladavini je Makarska padla pod Beneško oblast (do leta 1799), nato pa, vse do konca I. Svetovne vojne pod habsburško monarhijo. Izjema je bilo obdobje med leti 1805 in 1815, ko je bila Dalmacija pod Napoleonom. Glavna dejavnost mesta Makarska je turizem. Mesto ima okoli 12.800 prebivalcev.
V frančiškanskemu samostanu Svete Marije (iz 16. stoletja), katerega cerkev je bila med turško okupacijo spremenjena v džamijo, je zelo zanimiva in bogata zbirka školjk, samostan pa ima tudi staro knjižnico, arhiv ter zbirko slik in umetniških izdelkov. Župniško cerkev Svetog Marka so pričeli graditi leta 1700. Nikoli ni bila dokončana, posvetili pa so jo v letu 1756.
Po prihodu v mesto parkiram pri trgovini Lidl in se peš odpravim v center mesta. Pot vodi mimo frančiškanskega samostana, kjer si ogledam cerkev Svete Marije. Ogled nadaljujem po ulicah starega dela mesta. Cerkev Svetog Marka, ki se nahaja na Trgu Andrije Kačića, ni bila odprta. Na trgu pred cervijo stoji kip fratra Andrije Kačića Miošića, ki ga je leta 1889 izdelal kipar Ivan Rendić. Na rivi, kljub številnim lokalom ob promenadi, drevored palm še vedno pride do izraza, kar Makarsko naredi čudovito. Po krajšem odmoru v lokalu na promenadi se vrnem do avta in se odpeljem nazaj v Promajno. Na poti se ustavim še v marijanskem svetišču Vepric. Svetišče je nastalo leta 1908 po vzoru votline Lurške Matere božje v Lurdu. Ustanovil jo je škof Juraj Carić, ki je po svoji želji pokopan v svetišču. Svetišče sestavljajo votlina s kipom Matere Božje, kapela, oltar na prostem in postaje križevega pota.
Po vrnitvi si v apartmaju ogledam drugi polčas druge polfinalne tekme svetovnega prvenstva v košarki, v katerem Nemčija presenetljivo premaga Američane. Zvečer grem na večerjo v restavracijo Astorija (ocvrti lignji s krompirjem so bili zelo dobri.).
Sobotno dopoldne izkoristim za obisk kraja Imotski (4.000 prebivalcev) in ogled njegovih znamenitosti. Crveno jezero je vrtača s kraškim jezerom v bližini mesta. ima izjemno visoke pečine, ki segajo 240 metrov nad običajno gladino vode jezera. Premer jezera je približno 200 metrov, globina pa okoli 280 metrov. Modro jezero se nahaja na samem robu mesta. Njegova pobočja niso tako strma tako, da so leta 1907 do jezera zgradili celo cesto. Modro jezero ima obliko ledvice. Dolgo je 800 in široko do 500 metrov. Njegova največja globina pa je 90 metrov. Gladina vode skozi leto niha. V poletnih mesecih je v jezeru dovolj vode za kopanje in druge vodne športe. Niso pa redka leta, ko se jezero povsem posuši. Trdnjava Topana se nahaja v soteski nad Modrim jezerom in dominira nad mestom. V trdnjavi se nahaja tudi cerkev Gospe od Anđele. Trdnjava je bila zgrajena v 10. stoletju in je ena najpomembnejših srednjeveških utrdb v notranjosti Dalmacije. Ime je dobila po posebnem stolpu s ploščadjo za topove, ki je bil zgrajen na severovzhodnem delu trdnjave v času Kandijske vojne okoli leta 1663. Danes je ta trdnjava priljubljena razgledna točka s čudovitim pogledom na Modro jezero.
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ponedeljek se vračam proti domu. Namesto po avtocesti se vračam po stari cesti Dalmatinske Zagore. Prvi postanek naredim v mestu Sinj. Lepo urejeno staro mesto se ponaša s številnimi lokali, cerkvijo Gospe Sinjske, trdnjavo Kamičak, ostanki stare trdnjave Stari Grad ter Dvori Sinjske Alke v katerih je tudi muzej Alke in turistični urad. V mestu so tudi številne fontane in skulpture. V turističnemu uradu dobim načrt mesta in druge informacije, Muzej Sinjske Alke pa je na žalost ob ponedeljkih zaprt.
Sinj je na Hrvaškem in širše znan po Sinjski alki ter po svetišču Gospe Sinjske. Okoli 1000 let pnš območje Dalmacije naselijo pripadniki ilirskega plemena Delmati, katere ob začetku 1. stoletja preženejo Rimljani. V 7. stoletju naselijo področje Hrvati. Formirajo se prve kneževine in kasneje tudi kraljevina. Sinj leta 1513 zavzamejo Turki, ki mu vladajo vse do leta 1686, ko oblast prevzame Beneška Republika. Avgusta leta 1715 Turki ponovno napadejo Sinj. Po daljšem obleganju je polku Sinjske krajine uspelo odbiti napad in v noči s 14. na 15. avgust Turke pregnati v Livno. V počastitev te veličastne zmage Sinjani vsako leto tradicionalno prirejajo viteški turnir, po svetu znan kot Sinjska alka. Sinj tako ostane pod vladavino Beneške Republike do leta 1797, ko oblast v Dalmaciji, do konca I. Svetovne vojne, prevzame Avstro-Ogrska monarhija. Izjema je bilo obdobje 1805-13, ko je bila Dalmacija del francoskega ozemlja. Po razpadu Avstro-Ogrske monarhije Dalmacija postane del Jugoslavije in od leta 1991 del suverene Hrvaške Republike. Sinj ima okoli 10.800 prebivalcev.
Po prihodu v mesto avto parkiram na parkirišču v Livanjski ulici. Po Glavički ulici pridem do centra mesta na Trgu kralja Tomislava. Tu so številni lokali in cerkev Čudotvorne Gospe Sinjske. Cerkev je bila grajena od 1699 do 1712 leta. Osrednje mesto cerkve zavzema slika Čudodelne Gospe Sinjske, ki jo je naslikal neznani avtor v 15. ali 16. stoletju. Nad vhodnimi vrati so vitraži, delo akademskega slikarja Ivana Grgata, vhod v cerkev pa krasijo bronasti reliefi kipaja Stipe Sikirice. Današnji zvonik s štirimi zvonovi, visok 43 metrov, izvira iz leta 1927. Orglje so dodali leta 1958, izdelal pa jih je Franc Jenko iz Ljubljane. Po ogledu cerkve nadaljujem po ulici Put Petrovca do Alkarskih dvorov Kvartiri. Dvori so bili zgrajeni leta 1760 kot štirioglata trdnjava. Skozi zgodovino so jih uporabljale vse vojske, ki so se zadrževale na območju Sinja. Sedaj je v dvorih Muzej Sinjske Alke ter informacijski center. Pred zgradbo dvorov stoji fontana Petrovac, ki jo je postavil župan mesta Petar Tripalo leta 1878 in mpresivna umetnina, imenovana Kubura 1716, ki je kar 10-krat večja replika kubure, najdene na sinjski trdnjavi po bitki iz leta 1715. Skulpturo je izdelal kipar Kažimir Hrastet leta 2016. Ogled mesta se konča na trdnjavi Kamičak. Trdnjava, ki ima obliko zvezde, je bila zgrajena leta 1712 na istoimenskemu hribčku v centru mesta. Današnja oblika trdnjave izvira iz leta 1890. Trdnjava ima tudi stolp z uro in zvonom. Na vzpetini nad mestom se nahajajo ostanki srednjeveške trdnjave Stari Grad. Trdnjava je bila leta 1808 opuščena in delno porušena, leta 1887 pa so v središču trdnjave zgradili cerkev Svetega Mihovila. Ob cerkvici od leta 2008 stoji bronasti kip Gospe Sinjske, delo akademskega kiparja Josipa Marinovića.
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odmoru za kavico nadaljujem z vožnjo po dalmatinski Zagori. Naslednji cilj je mesto Knin. Po prihodu v mesto se zapeljem na hrib Spas do Kninske trdnjave.
Knin leži na desnem bregu reke Krke, ki izvira na območju Knina Tu je križišče železniških prog in cest, ki peljejo proti jadranski obali, Liki in Bosni. Področje mesta je bilo naseljeno že v rimski dobi. V kraju je grobišče iz 6. stoletja z romanskimi in germanskimi grobovi. V 10. stoletju je bil v Kninu sedež starohrvaške županije, v 11. stoletju pa prestolnica hrvaškega kralja Petra Svačića. Kraj je od 13. stoletja večkrat menjal gospodarje. V 16. stoletju (1522) so Knin zavzeli Turki, ki so zgradili pomembno oporišče, v 17. stoletju (1688) pa so se ga polastili Benečani. Iz tistih časov je na griču Spas nad mestom ostala dobro ohranjena turško-beneška trdnjava. Benečani so vladali Kninu vse do leta 1797, ko je prešel pod oblast Avstrije. Z izjemo obdobja 1805-13, ko je bila Dalmacija pod Napoleonovo Francijo, so Habsburžani vladali Kninu vse do konca I. Svetovne vojne. Sledilo je obdobje Kraljevine Jugoslavije in po koncu II. Svetovne vojne SFR Jugoslavije. Po razpadu slednje je Knin postal del Republike Hrvaške. V času osamosvojitvene vojne je bil Knin prestolnica samooklicane Srbske republike Krajina. Hrvaška vojska ga je, v vojaški akciji Nevihta, ki ji je poveljeval general Ante Gotovina, 5. avgusta 1995 zavzela in vrnila v ustavno-pravni red Republike Hrvaške. Sedaj v Kninu živi okoli 8.300 prebivalcev.
Najstarejši del Kninske trdnjave, Kaštel Knin, je bil zgrajen v drugi polovici 9. stoletja. Skozi stoletja so jo osvajali, rušili in gradili Madžari, Turki, Benečani, Francozi in Avstrijci. Trdnjava se nahaja na južnem delu hriba Spas, 100 metrov nad mestom Knin. Dolga je 470 metrov in široka 110 metrov na najširšem delu. Obrambni zidovi, ki ga obdajajo z vseh strani v dolžini skoraj dveh kilometrov, so ponekod visoki tudi do 20 metrov. Kninska trdnjava se nahaja na 345 metrih nadmorske višine. Sestavlja jo na pet delov: Gornji grad (Kaštel Knin - 9. stoletje), Srednji grad (Garišta - 13. stoletje), Bandjera (Kaštel Lab - 14. stoletje), postaja Belvedere (18. stoletje) in Donji grad (18. stoletje). Vsak od teh delov trdnjave se lahko šteje za samostojno utrjeno mesto.
Dobra ura je potrebna, da si ogledaš celotno trdnjavo. V eni izmed zgradb je umeščena tudi razstava posvečena vojaški akciji Nevihta '95.
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