The world of hair color is vast and vibrant, with a seemingly never-ending array of shades, tones, and hues. If you're considering a new hair color or want to add some dimension to your current one, you've likely come across the ubiquitous hair color charts. But what exactly do those numbers and numbers-slash-letters mean? Let's demystify hair color charts and help you find your perfect shade.
Hair color charts are designed to provide a universal language for communicating hair color. Whether you're consulting with a hair stylist, shopping for hair dye at home, or browsing online for inspiration, understanding hair color charts can save you from color catastrophe and guide you towards your dream hue.
Understanding Hair Color Levels
Hair color levels, also known as the number scale, are the foundation of hair color charts. They indicate the darkness or lightness of a color, typically ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). This scale allows hair professionals to assess your current hair color and plan how many levels of lift they need to achieve your desired color change.
For example, if your natural hair is Level 5 (medium brown) and you want to achieve Level 9 (light blonde), your stylist will need to lighten your hair by four levels. This helps them determine the appropriate process time, formula, and any necessary precautions, like adding a toner to neutralize brassiness.
Hair Color Levels vs. Hair Color Levels with Ash, Gold, and Red Undertones
While the hair color level system was once simplified to just numbers, modern hair color charts have evolved to include undertones. These undertones fall under the category of 'neutral' (also called ash), 'warm' (gold, copper, or red), and 'cool' (ash).
Undertones are crucial in determining how a color will look on you, as they can enhance or mute certain features. For instance, 'cool' undertones can make your skin tone appear more vibrant, while 'warm' undertones can add a soft, glowing effect. Consider your natural skin undertone and desired aesthetic when choosing your undertone.
Hair Color Levels and Dye Formulas
Hair color levels are also an essential aspect of dye formulas. Each color level requires a specific ratio of developer and hair color to achieve the desired result. Most hair dyes have levels pre-mixed, but if you're mixing your own, understanding the level system will help you get it right.
For example, if you're trying to achieve a Level 7 (dark blonde) from Level 5 (medium brown), you might use a 20-volume developer with a specific color manufacturer's formula. However, going from Level 4 (dark auburn) to Level 9 (light blonde) could require careful application of a 30-volume developer and multiple processing sessions.
Understanding High Lift and Fashion Colors
Hair color charts also include 'high lift' colors, which are designed to lighten hair while depositing color. These often come in percentages, indicating the level of lift they can achieve, such as 20, 30, or 40 volume. High lift colors are perfect for those wanting to lighten their hair and add dramatic color, like a fiery red or pastel pink.
Fashion colors, on the other hand, are vibrant, non-natural colors that have grown in popularity over the years. These often include terms like 'brilliant' or 'vibrant' in their names. Keep in mind that fashion colors can have varying results based on your natural hair color and condition, so proper preparation and consultation with a professional are recommended.
High Lift and Fashion Colors: Patience and Aftercare
High lift and fashion colors often require pre-lightening, with results lasting from four to eight weeks, depending on the color and maintenance. It's crucial to follow your colorist's guidelines for aftercare, including using color-safe shampoos, deep conditioning regularly, and avoiding heat styling as much as possible. This will help prolong the life of your color and keep your hair healthy.
In addition to your regular hair care routine, consider using a purple or blue shampoo once a week to help balance brassiness and keep your fashion color looking fresh. Remember, the better you care for your hair, the longer your new color will last.
Embracing your new hair color is an exciting journey, and understanding hair color charts is the first step towards looking and feeling fabulous. So the next time you're flipping through a hair color chart, you'll be armed with the knowledge to make an informed decision and find the perfect shade for you. Happy coloring!