go beyond oil

We have officially arrived in the Arctic! After coming into Nuuk, Greenland, on Friday to pick up Arne, our ice pilot - we headed north and crossed the Arctic circle yesterday afternoon. I was incredibly excited about crossing the line as I have never done it before. Waldemar, our captain also hasn't been here. We stood together on the bridge yesterday and watched the GPS move slowly up from 66 degrees north. At the moment we crossed the line he jumped into the air and said "oh wow! Lisa! did you feel it?". Of course there's no geographical line in the ocean - no immediate change in the surroundings when you cross over. And just like a birthday when you suddenly get a year older - you don't feel any different but it's a special occasion and cause for celebration.

Anais takes a break from her chores on board to ponder about what's on the horizon and why we're here...

There are more and more visits by our distant relatives - the whales -as we journey onwards and they are a welcome distraction from our busy daily routine. It's one of the unspoken ship's rules to drop grease guns, chipping hammers and carpentry tools at any time, and get one personal minute of wonder holding onto the railing, viewing the spouts. Perhaps this mixed feeling of wishfulness and emotion is because we feel connected to these mammals who were drawn from the land to the ocean - just like us.

I also love these funny moments of confusion when formations of dark blue clouds appear close to the horizon. It makes me wink, rub my eyes and after a second look they appear not to be just mountain shaped clouds but actually land. Greenland this time.

Will Rose, the Esperanza's photographer, has been keeping himself busy documenting life on board the ship as well as some of the incredible sights the crew have already encountered on their journey north. They've seen whales, the Northern Lights and the Persaid meteor shower. Not that I'm jealous.

More of Will's photos will be appearing in the Esperanza Flickr set.

Victor, one of our activists on board the Esperanza, writes his second update... 

Friends, we’ve now been at sea for a week. The waves have come and gone. Sometimes big, sometimes small. Right now it’s calm. But just a couple of days ago it was worse. Curfew during the night, and recommendations to stay away from deck even during daytime. The waves burst over the bow and sprayed the windows as high up as the bridge. When laying in my bunk I got that feeling of weightlessness as the ship moved down the ridge of the waves, only to weigh double as much as normal as we came up again. Hallelujah. Better than Disneyland.

Leila, Greenpeace climate campaigner, writes from the Esperanza...

Blimey, isn't everyone getting their knickers in a twist about where the great ship Esperanza is headed. After the news of The Faroe Islands calling on 'special forces', the internet is alive with speculation about where we'll end up.The Faroes' massive overreaction makes the point more clearly than Greenpeace could - our countries are addicted to oil and we all need help to get off it.

Sim from the USA, who is currently on board our ship the Esperanza, writes...

I’ve been aboard the Esperanza for several days now. Having made it through the humbling experience of being utterly incapacitated by seasickness (not a pleasant experience, lemme tell you), I've started to get my feet under me and am able to help out with the day to day workings of the ship.

Loading and stowing the gear for our expedition, helping oil the cable on one of the ship's three cranes, and getting into the rhythm of morning cleaning rotation have all given me a chance to get involved with the crew as well as our campaign team. As I've found most places, putting in your time cleaning seems central to making friends out here.

Ben Stewart, comms officer onboard the Esperanza writes... 

Well I have to say, I didn’t expect that. Yesterday afternoon I was on the rowing machine at the back of the ship as we bobbed along somewhere north of Scotland when Helena tapped me on the shoulder and told me there was a journalist asking for me on the satellite phone. I made an undignified attempt to get to my feet but my legs didn’t work, then I realised my shoes were still strapped into the machine but I couldn’t reach them so I sort of flapped around a bit like an Emperor penguin on an iceberg until I managed to slide along the floor and out of the door.

A minute later I was in the campaign office on the top deck, phone plugged to ear, heaving for breath with a ruddy red face. It was Radio Faroe Islands on the line and they wanted our reaction to the news that the Danish government has sent a team of special forces navy SEALS to the islands to ‘take on’ the Esperanza.

Anais from Germany writes from the Esperanza...

And as the lockmaster is unveiling the curtain we are putting out to sea - leaving behind murmur, feet scraping and rustling plastic bags of the overcrowded cinema. it's the curtain call for sea monsters, herds of white horses riding on top of giant waves, jack o' lanterns and other strange weather phenomena.

Victor, an activist on board the Esperanza, wrote a blog for us yesterday -- while most of us were all feeling too seasick to look at a computer screen - let alone type.

We left the harbour in London on Thursday at 2:30pm local time. No problems there. I don’t know if it’s normal, but we were escorted by a large inflatable. I’d guess they were the water police checking up on us so we didn’t make any surprise action in their jurisdiction. The mood on board was great, and we were all happy being on our way out at sea. The grand adventure was waiting around the corner.

I'm a Swedish activist for Greenpeace, living in Denmark. The ship we’re on, Esperanza, is the biggest of Greenpeace’s three oceangoing ships. On board we are about 35 people from various parts of the world. English is the official language on board, but you hear Spanish in various places on the ship. A fantastic mix if you ask me.