Washing pet bedding: what actually works

Pet bedding is three problems in one item, and most washing advice only addresses one of them. There is hair, which needs dealing with before the wash rather than during it. There is smell, which survives an ordinary cycle. And there is bulk, because a large dog bed is one of the biggest things most households will ever try to launder.

First: does the cover come off?

Check before anything else, because it determines the whole approach. Most manufactured beds have a zipped cover over a separate insert, and the two are laundered completely differently. The zip is usually along one long edge and can be hidden under a flap.

If the cover comes off, wash the cover and deal with the insert separately — that is the design intent and it is far easier. If it does not, you are washing the whole thing as one object, which changes the machine size you need and the drying time substantially.

Beds with no removable cover and a thick filling are the hardest case in this whole article, and for those the honest answer is often a large commercial machine or nothing.

Getting the hair out, which is the step everyone skips

This is the difference between a good result and a poor one, and it happens before the bed goes anywhere near water. Wet hair does not come off fabric — it mats into it, works into the weave, and comes out of the machine embedded in the bed and coating everything else in the drum.

  • Vacuum it thoroughly, both sides. Longer than feels necessary. A pet bed holds an extraordinary quantity of hair deep in the fibres.
  • Then use a rubber glove. A damp rubber washing-up glove dragged across fabric pulls out hair a vacuum cannot reach, and it works better than any dedicated tool.
  • Or a pumice stone or rubber brush for short coarse hair that has worked into a weave.
  • Shake it out hard outdoors at the end.
  • A dryer cycle on no heat first is the professional trick — twenty minutes of tumbling with no heat shakes a surprising amount of hair into the lint filter before the bed ever gets wet.

Do all of that and the wash works. Skip it and you get a bed that still has hair in it and a machine that needs cleaning out afterwards.

Smell is not the same as dirt

A pet bed that looks clean and still smells is the commonest complaint, and it is because a standard wash addresses the visible soil and not the cause of the odour. Oils from a pet’s coat work into the fibres over weeks and are not water soluble, which is why a normal detergent cycle lifts the surface and leaves the rest.

An enzyme-based laundry product is the thing that addresses that, and it needs contact time rather than a quick cycle. Pre-soak the cover in warm water with an enzyme product for an hour before washing, or use a long cycle that allows a soak phase.

Vinegar in the rinse helps with residual smell and costs nothing. Fabric softener does the opposite — it coats the fibres, traps the oils underneath and makes the problem worse next time.

This explains why oils cause smell and how to remove them, without any claim about anything being killed, eliminated or sanitised. If a pet has a parasite problem or a skin condition, that is a veterinary matter and laundering the bedding is a supporting step rather than a treatment — speak to a vet about the animal first.

Washing it

  • On its own, always. Whatever hair you did not remove will end up on everything else in the load.
  • Warm rather than hot, unless the label allows more. Hot water can shrink covers and damage any waterproof backing.
  • Check for a waterproof layer. Many covers have a membrane bonded to the underside, and heat delaminates it. Warm and low-heat drying is what preserves it.
  • Modest detergent, plus an enzyme product if smell is the issue. Not a large dose of ordinary detergent, which will not rinse out of thick fabric.
  • Extra rinse. Pet bedding is dense and holds detergent.
  • No fabric softener and no strongly perfumed products. Many animals dislike a heavily scented bed and will avoid it afterwards, which defeats the exercise.

Foam inserts and orthopaedic beds

The insert is where most pet beds are ruined, because foam and washing machines are a poor combination.

Solid memory foam or orthopaedic foam should generally not go in a machine at all. It absorbs an enormous amount of water, becomes extremely heavy, and the agitation tears the structure internally where you cannot see it. It also takes days to dry, and foam that dries slowly develops a smell of its own that never leaves.

Spot-clean the foam instead: a cloth with warm water and a little mild detergent, blotting rather than soaking, then dry it thoroughly with airflow before putting the cover back on. If the foam is genuinely filthy, replacing the insert is usually more sensible than washing it — inserts are widely available and cost a fraction of a new bed.

Loose polyester fill is a different case and generally washable, though it clumps and needs the same shake-and-turn treatment as a comforter to redistribute it while drying.

Drying

Long, and low. Pet bedding is dense, and the same rule applies as to everything else bulky: dry on the surface is not dry in the middle, and a bed put back down damp will smell within a day.

Low heat for anything with a waterproof backing, and low heat generally for covers, because high heat shrinks them and a shrunk cover will not go back over the insert. Take it out and turn it a couple of times during the cycle. Air-drying works well for covers in warm weather and is the safest option for anything you are unsure about.

Check the seams and the thickest section before deciding it is done. If it feels cool, it is still wet.

How often

Weekly for the cover is the usual recommendation and is more than most households manage. Every two weeks is a realistic target and makes a noticeable difference compared with monthly.

More often if the animal goes outside a lot, if it is elderly or unwell, if it sheds heavily, or if anyone in the house is bothered by the smell. Less often for a cat bed that stays indoors and gets little use.

Between washes, a quick vacuum every few days does more than people expect — it is the accumulating hair that carries the smell, and removing it regularly slows the whole process down.

The other habit worth building is turning the bed over. Most beds are used from one side and the underside stays comparatively clean, so flipping it midway between washes roughly doubles the time before the top surface becomes unpleasant. It costs nothing and most people never think to do it.

More than one pet, or more than one bed

Two animals is not twice the laundry, it is more than twice — beds get used harder, hair accumulates faster, and the beds tend to be shared regardless of intention.

The arrangement that works is the same as for household linen: hold a spare. A second cover for each bed means the bed is never out of use while a cover is being washed, and it means you can wash on your own schedule rather than when the bed becomes unbearable. Covers cost a fraction of what beds do and this is the single most useful thing a multi-pet household can do.

If you have several beds, rotate rather than washing them all at once. One a week keeps everything reasonable and never produces a laundry day where three dog beds need a large machine simultaneously.

Accidents and heavy soiling

Deal with it immediately rather than at the next scheduled wash. Blot up as much as possible, rinse the area with cool water, and treat with an enzyme product before it dries. Hot water sets protein stains permanently.

The reason enzymes matter here specifically is that an ordinary clean removes the visible mark and leaves the rest, and an animal will often return to a spot that still smells to it even when it smells of nothing to you. That is a behavioural problem created by an incomplete clean.

If a bed has been heavily soiled and the insert is not removable, that is usually the point at which replacing it makes more sense than laundering it.

Beds that cannot be washed

TypeWhyInstead
Solid foam insertAbsorbs water, tears internally, dries too slowlySpot clean, or replace the insert
Rigid or framed bedsStructure will not survive a machineWipe the frame, wash any cushion
Heated bedsWiringCover only, and check the manufacturer’s guidance
Woven basketsNot fabricWipe out, wash the liner
Beds with a cracked waterproof layerFragments shed in the machineReplace — the layer has already failed
Anything above machine capacityCannot tumble, will not cleanA larger machine, or a new bed

What makes a bed easy or hard to launder

If you are buying rather than washing, this is the single decision that determines how much work the bed will be for its whole life, and it is worth more thought than the colour.

FeatureEffect on laundering
Removable zipped coverThe most important feature by far
Loose polyester fillWashable, though it clumps and needs shaking while drying
Solid foam insertEffectively not washable — spot clean or replace
Waterproof membraneUseful, but needs warm washing and low drying or it delaminates
Rigid frame or bolsterAwkward; often only part of it can be washed
Machine-washable labelCheck the size it assumes — some specify a drum capacity
Dark fabricHides marks and therefore hides when it needs washing

A bed with a removable cover and a replaceable insert will stay usable for years. A one-piece bed with bonded foam is a consumable, however good it looks in the shop.

Where the bed sits changes how often you wash it

A small thing with a large effect. A bed by a back door, in a hallway, or anywhere the animal goes straight to after coming in from outside gets dirty several times faster than one in a quiet corner.

Moving it a few feet, or putting a washable mat between the door and the bed so the worst comes off first, reduces the laundry considerably. So does keeping it off a carpet that holds dust, and away from a radiator — warmth accelerates the oil-and-odour process that makes a bed smell.

When the smell is the room rather than the bed

Occasionally a bed is washed properly, dried completely, and the smell is still there the next day. In that case the bed is usually not the source.

Soft furnishings near it absorb the same oils — a rug under the bed, a sofa the animal also uses, curtains at floor level. Washing the bed and returning it to the same spot puts a clean item into a scented environment, and it picks the smell back up within a day.

If that is happening, wash the throw and the rug at the same time as the bed rather than in isolation. It is more laundry in one go and it is the only thing that resets the room rather than one object in it.

Cats and dogs are not the same job

Cat bedding is generally smaller, lighter and easier — usually a single washable item that fits in a domestic machine without difficulty. The main complications are that cats are more sensitive to scent than dogs and will often reject a bed that smells strongly of detergent, and that cat hair is finer and works further into fabric, so the pre-wash hair removal matters even more.

Dog bedding is bigger, heavier, dirtier and more likely to have a foam insert. It is also more likely to come in from outside wet or muddy, which means it benefits from being shaken out and dried before washing rather than going in damp and muddy.

If you have both, wash them separately. It is not a hygiene point; it is that the two need different machine sizes and different treatment.

Blankets and throws the pet uses

Often overlooked and usually the easiest win in the house. A throw over the sofa where the dog sleeps takes far more of the hair and oil than the actual bed does, and it washes like ordinary laundry.

Putting a washable throw or blanket over the bed itself is worth doing for the same reason. The throw takes the wear, washes weekly without effort, and the bed underneath needs washing far less often. It is the same principle as a duvet cover, applied to a dog bed.

Crate pads, car covers and the rest

Pet laundry is not only the bed, and the other items tend to get washed far less often because nobody thinks of them as laundry at all.

  • Crate pads. Usually thin and easily washable, and usually filthier than the bed because they get less attention. Wash on the same schedule.
  • Car seat covers and boot liners. These take mud and wet fur directly and are often the smelliest thing in the house without anyone identifying them as the source.
  • Harnesses, collars and soft leads. Fabric ones wash in a mesh bag on a gentle cycle. Check for metal fittings that could damage a drum.
  • Soft toys. Most wash fine in a mesh bag. Anything with a squeaker or a rigid part usually does not survive.
  • Blankets used in the car or the crate. The easiest of all and the most often forgotten.

Washing all of it together on the same day makes sense — it is one load of pet items rather than pet things appearing in ordinary washes throughout the month, which is how hair ends up on everything else you own.

Doing it here

A large dog bed is one of the items our bigger machines exist for — a bed that will not tumble in a home washer will move freely in a 40 or 60 pound drum, which is the difference between coming out clean and coming out wet. The same goes for anything with a thick cover that a domestic dryer cannot finish.

Our oversized and household page lists per-item prices for pet bedding and everything else in that category. If you are unsure whether yours can be washed at all — particularly if there is foam involved or a backing that has started to crack — bring it in or call and we will tell you before you make the trip.

It is worth saying that a bed which cannot be laundered is not a failure of the bed or of you. Plenty of them are built as single-piece items with bonded foam and were never designed to be washed, and no amount of technique changes that. Knowing which kind you have is the useful outcome, because it tells you whether to plan on washing it or on replacing the insert when it gets bad — and it tells you what to look for next time you buy one.

Bring the bed in

6043 W Addison St, open 6:30am–10pm daily. Not sure if it can be washed? Ask us first.

Call Schedule Pickup