August 2010

A video of life on the Esperanza

Posted by lisavickers — 26 August 2010 at 9:25am - Comments

We finally managed to upload the video of the crew that our videographer Stephen Nugent made. The internet connection via satellite is pretty terrible up here as we are right on the edge of the northern range for the satellite that normally gives us internet 24/7. I'm so glad you are now able to see it. The video itself took about four days to make, several bars of chocolate in bribes to get people talking, Stephen on camera and me on sound - fumbling around all over the ship - getting in everyone's way and struggling with the pitching and rolling at sea.

Bad week in business for Sinar Mas

Posted by jamie — 25 August 2010 at 5:18pm - Comments

More of Sinar Mas's handiwork, this time in an area known to support endangered Sumatran tigers 

There's been a not insignificant amount of fallout from the implosion of Sinar Mas's audit last week. You'll remember that the independent auditors demanded public clarification on some statements made by Sinar Mas about the results of said audit which were not, in fact, supported by the audit itself.

First of all (and this might be a complete coincidence), shares for Golden Agri Resources (Gar) - one of the Sinar Mas group's palm oil producers - fell by over 6 per cent between 19 and 23 August. PT Smart, another palm oil arm, dropped by nearly 3 per cent.

How many Arctic cowboys does it take to lasso an iceberg?

Posted by jamess — 25 August 2010 at 12:24pm - Comments

Will Rose, independent photographer who regularly works with Greenpeace. He writes from the Esperanza...

We’re in and out of internet range now so I’m not sure when this will go up on the website. As if to mark the occasion thick swirls of fog have cut us off from the recent blue crisp Arctic horizon. 

The crew are subdued but in good spirits albeit a little tired after the rough Atlantic crossing, long working days and the sudden lack of awe inspiring scenery of Greenland’s coastline. Sailing in towards the mountains around Nuuk after being starved of land felt like sailing into a new world, a different planet which for those who hadn’t seen it could only silently gaze in amazement bereft of the ability to speak.

The trouble with tuna

Posted by Willie — 25 August 2010 at 12:01pm - Comments

Is removing salade nicoise from the menu better than searching out sustainable tuna supplies? (Photo (c) FotoosVanRobin)

When you get a bit close to a subject, you get geeky. Before you know it you are scoffing at how other people could possible not know something, because you do. Yet of course it's true that the vast majority of the public are very much in the 'don't know' camp.

From the Gulf to the Arctic

Posted by jamess — 25 August 2010 at 11:26am - Comments

Sim, US activist, writes again from the Esperanza.

In the months following the explosion and subsequent sinking of BP’s Deepwater Horizon offshore drilling rig, I spent nearly three weeks in Louisiana’s Gulf coast bearing witness and assisting in documentation of the largest oil spill in US history. I stayed on Grand Isle, a vacation and fishing community that was described to me by its inhabitants as paradise. But it was far from a paradise during my stay - with clean-up crews in white protective suits working around the clock to protect their coastline from the devastating effects of the oil spill and toxic sludge visible on the beaches and marshes. I got a brief glimpse of a way of life that will be deeply changed forever in the aftermath of the oil spill.

Blue Noses in the Royal Kingdom of the Polar Bear

Posted by lisavickers — 23 August 2010 at 2:37am - Comments

We have officially arrived in the Arctic! After coming into Nuuk, Greenland, on Friday to pick up Arne, our ice pilot - we headed north and crossed the Arctic circle yesterday afternoon. I was incredibly excited about crossing the line as I have never done it before. Waldemar, our captain also hasn't been here. We stood together on the bridge yesterday and watched the GPS move slowly up from 66 degrees north. At the moment we crossed the line he jumped into the air and said "oh wow! Lisa! did you feel it?". Of course there's no geographical line in the ocean - no immediate change in the surroundings when you cross over. And just like a birthday when you suddenly get a year older - you don't feel any different but it's a special occasion and cause for celebration.

Black gold and mountain shaped clouds

Posted by lisavickers — 22 August 2010 at 1:36pm - Comments

Anais takes a break from her chores on board to ponder about what's on the horizon and why we're here...

There are more and more visits by our distant relatives - the whales -as we journey onwards and they are a welcome distraction from our busy daily routine. It's one of the unspoken ship's rules to drop grease guns, chipping hammers and carpentry tools at any time, and get one personal minute of wonder holding onto the railing, viewing the spouts. Perhaps this mixed feeling of wishfulness and emotion is because we feel connected to these mammals who were drawn from the land to the ocean - just like us.

I also love these funny moments of confusion when formations of dark blue clouds appear close to the horizon. It makes me wink, rub my eyes and after a second look they appear not to be just mountain shaped clouds but actually land. Greenland this time.

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